Crimping .38 cast bullets with no cannelure?

[Taco-XL]

I am new to handgun loading. I have some 158 SWC cast bullets from Hornady and they do not have a cannelure or crimp groove. I know all my books say to put a roll crimp on revolver rounds and not to roll crimp bullets that dont have a cannelure. I seated the bullet to the 1.455 OAL listed for that bullet per Hornady's own manual. That leaves a little bit of the bullet exposed before it starts to taper down. My question is can i roll crimp into the soft lead bullet or no crimp? Im confused. I can not find any info on crimping cast revolver bullets with no cannelure.

[Unclenick]

Yes, you can roll crimp into the swaged lead bullets. Usually you let it bite in about 0.020" below the shoulder where the tapered ogive begins. About a thumbnail thickness worth. I would seat and roll crimp in two separate steps, even if you use the same die. That will minimize lead shaving by the case mouth. The shaving comes off as rings of lead that tend to build up in the chamber throat and make a mess to clean out.

With those soft bullets, you don't want to drive them as hard as jacketed bullets unless you are willing to see a lot of leading, so you don't need as firm a crimp unless your gun is a lightweight. Unfortunately, only experimentation will tell.

[Nick_C_S]

Taco-XL, do you plan on loading a lot of these? And/or plated bullets?

If so, consider getting a taper crimp seat die for 38/357.

In the case of the Hornady swaged bullet, there is a lot of bullet surface seated below the case mouth, so the crimp isn't real critical. A roll crimp is fine, to be certain. But a taper crimp would suit the application better.

A taper crimp is definitely the preferred method for plated bullets - even if they have a cannelure (rare, but X-treme makes a few, for instance).

I shoot a lot of 38 target wadcutters n such, and I taper crimp them - lead or plated - crimp groove/cannelure or not. I have three taper crimp dies for 38/357. Two are "locked down" for ammo I frequently load - just screw 'em in n go. The third one is my 'floater' that I adjust as needed for all other taper crimp applications.

I'm not sure where you're going to go with this loading thing for your 686 4", but if it takes you down the plated bullet road (or target wadcutters and SWC's, like me), a taper crimp die may be a good investment.