Help w/ headstamps and brass manufacturers

Torquemada · October 9, 2002, 04:54 PM

I have inherited a variety of brass: some of it once-fired, some of it previously reloaded (I don't know how many times). Headstamps are all over the place, including:

Western, Peters, Rem-UMC, UMC, R-P, WRA, W-W, H-P, Zero, W-W Super, Winchester, Super-X, Remington, Speer, Federal, IMI, S&B, etc.

W-W, W-W Super, Super-X, Winchester, WRA, Western all the same?

Rem-UMC, UMC, Remington, Peters all the same?

Zero? (one case, .38spl +P)

Any real difference between .38spl and .38spl +P cases? Or .45ACP and .45ACP +P?

What should I do when reloading for .38spl, .357mag, .45ACP and 9mm and the brass manufacturer isn't listed besides start at the "start" or "min" load? Should I just toss any of them?

Any manufacturer that makes "bad" brass that I should just avoid? Besides Berdan primed, of course (since I don't have a setup for them).

blades67 · October 9, 2002, 05:54 PM

I don't bother sorting headstamps with my .45 ACP and 9mm brass because I have mild loads for them. I generally toss any military cases I find because I don't feel like jagging with the crimped primer pockets.

Archie · October 9, 2002, 09:58 PM

Except for full power loads in 357 or 44 Mag or maybe Super 38, the mixed bag of handgun cases should present no problem.

Use these for general loads and practise stuff.
The "+P" cases are the same, perhaps a little better quality brass, but probably exactly the same.

If you have a 357 or 44 Magnum, buy new brass for heaviest loadings and high end development.

**Mike Irwin** · October 9, 2002, 11:37 PM

Toss the case marked Zero, and reload the rest.

stans · October 10, 2002, 07:06 AM

Don't waste your time trying to reload Amerc brass. I have also found that S&B brass has very tight primer pockets.

**Mike Irwin** · October 10, 2002, 09:49 AM

I missed the IMI brass in there.

I had a bunch of .38 Spl. IMI brass that was EXTREMELY difficult to reload due to eithe tight primer pockets or a light primer crimp. I just ditched the brass.

I've had nothing but wonderful success reloading S&B brass.

Also, toss Norinco brass.

cheygriz · October 10, 2002, 01:03 PM

Mike,

I usually swage the pockets on IMI and PMC B4 even trying to load them. After swaging, no problems whatsoever.

Blades,

If you toss the GI brass, you're throwing away the highest quality, longest lasting brass in the world. Get a Dillon Super Swage, and save all of that good stuff.

Jim Watson · October 10, 2002, 02:34 PM

The headstamps you list are good quality brass. If you have a lot of GI or some brand with tight primer pockets, invest in the swaging tool, it will get you the use of good quality brass.

You do not mention it, but if you turn up any A-MERC brass, ditch it. I do not bother with Norinco or Hansen (nny headstamp). I will go ahead and load an isolated Fiocchi (G.F.L. headstamp) case but do not bother with any amount of it.

Remington, Peters, and UMC are all owned by Remington now; and Winchester and Western are both under the Olin headquarters. This does not mean that brass of those headstamps of different ages is the same. Usable but not identical.

Torquemada · October 11, 2002, 05:47 PM

Thanks for the info.

I may use the "Zero" case to make one of those drill-a-hole-through-the-case-after-seating-a-bullet-no powder-no primer dealies.

I'm definitely going to be loading "lite" for a while - I don't know anyone with a chronograph and have to learn how to read cases first, but I do have an experienced father-in-law for assistance.

Most likely, I'll sort by headstamp to more positively identify different loadings. I decapped/sized all the .38 and .357, I need to borrow his (F-I-L's) 9mm and .45 dies...and purchase primers (Winchester most likely), powder (Hodgdon HP-38 or HS-6 most likely) and bullets (Rainier plated, most likely).

October 9, 2002, 04:54 PM	#1
Torquemada Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2001 Location: suburban Illinois Posts: 204	Help w/ headstamps and brass manufacturers I have inherited a variety of brass: some of it once-fired, some of it previously reloaded (I don't know how many times). Headstamps are all over the place, including: Western, Peters, Rem-UMC, UMC, R-P, WRA, W-W, H-P, Zero, W-W Super, Winchester, Super-X, Remington, Speer, Federal, IMI, S&B, etc. W-W, W-W Super, Super-X, Winchester, WRA, Western all the same? Rem-UMC, UMC, Remington, Peters all the same? Zero? (one case, .38spl +P) Any real difference between .38spl and .38spl +P cases? Or .45ACP and .45ACP +P? What should I do when reloading for .38spl, .357mag, .45ACP and 9mm and the brass manufacturer isn't listed besides start at the "start" or "min" load? Should I just toss any of them? Any manufacturer that makes "bad" brass that I should just avoid? Besides Berdan primed, of course (since I don't have a setup for them). __________________ Ain't no sense worrying 'bout things you got control over, 'cause if you got control over 'em, ain't no sense in worrying. And there ain't no sense in worrying 'bout things you ain't got control over, 'cause if you ain't got control over 'em, ain't no sense in worrying. - Satchel Paige

October 9, 2002, 05:54 PM	#2
blades67 Senior Member Join Date: April 22, 1999 Location: Chandler, Arizona, USA Posts: 6,014	I don't bother sorting headstamps with my .45 ACP and 9mm brass because I have mild loads for them. I generally toss any military cases I find because I don't feel like jagging with the crimped primer pockets. __________________ Guns cause crime like spoons cause Rosie O'Donnell to be fat! I hunt, therefore I am.

October 9, 2002, 09:58 PM	#3
Archie Senior Member Join Date: May 26, 2000 Location: Hastings, Nebrasksa - the Hear Posts: 2,209	Expanding on what Blades said... Except for full power loads in 357 or 44 Mag or maybe Super 38, the mixed bag of handgun cases should present no problem. Use these for general loads and practise stuff. The "+P" cases are the same, perhaps a little better quality brass, but probably exactly the same. If you have a 357 or 44 Magnum, buy new brass for heaviest loadings and high end development. __________________ There ain't no free lunch, except Jesus. Archie Check out updated journal at http://oldmanmontgomery.wordpress.com/

October 9, 2002, 11:37 PM	#4
Mike Irwin Staff Join Date: April 13, 2000 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 41,380	Toss the case marked Zero, and reload the rest. __________________ "The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.

October 10, 2002, 09:49 AM	#6
Mike Irwin Staff Join Date: April 13, 2000 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 41,380	I missed the IMI brass in there. I had a bunch of .38 Spl. IMI brass that was EXTREMELY difficult to reload due to eithe tight primer pockets or a light primer crimp. I just ditched the brass. I've had nothing but wonderful success reloading S&B brass. Also, toss Norinco brass. __________________ "The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.

October 10, 2002, 07:06 AM	#5
stans Senior Member Join Date: November 9, 2001 Location: Virginia, USA Posts: 838	Don't waste your time trying to reload Amerc brass. I have also found that S&B brass has very tight primer pockets.

October 10, 2002, 01:03 PM	#7
cheygriz Senior Member Join Date: May 11, 2002 Location: high up in the rockies Posts: 2,289	Mike, I usually swage the pockets on IMI and PMC B4 even trying to load them. After swaging, no problems whatsoever. Blades, If you toss the GI brass, you're throwing away the highest quality, longest lasting brass in the world. Get a Dillon Super Swage, and save all of that good stuff. __________________ If you think a mighty military force is expensive, wait 'til you see what a weak one costs.

October 10, 2002, 02:34 PM	#8
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,535	The headstamps you list are good quality brass. If you have a lot of GI or some brand with tight primer pockets, invest in the swaging tool, it will get you the use of good quality brass. You do not mention it, but if you turn up any A-MERC brass, ditch it. I do not bother with Norinco or Hansen (nny headstamp). I will go ahead and load an isolated Fiocchi (G.F.L. headstamp) case but do not bother with any amount of it. Remington, Peters, and UMC are all owned by Remington now; and Winchester and Western are both under the Olin headquarters. This does not mean that brass of those headstamps of different ages is the same. Usable but not identical.

October 11, 2002, 05:47 PM	#9
Torquemada Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2001 Location: suburban Illinois Posts: 204	Thanks for the info. I may use the "Zero" case to make one of those drill-a-hole-through-the-case-after-seating-a-bullet-no powder-no primer dealies. I'm definitely going to be loading "lite" for a while - I don't know anyone with a chronograph and have to learn how to read cases first, but I do have an experienced father-in-law for assistance. Most likely, I'll sort by headstamp to more positively identify different loadings. I decapped/sized all the .38 and .357, I need to borrow his (F-I-L's) 9mm and .45 dies...and purchase primers (Winchester most likely), powder (Hodgdon HP-38 or HS-6 most likely) and bullets (Rainier plated, most likely). __________________ Ain't no sense worrying 'bout things you got control over, 'cause if you got control over 'em, ain't no sense in worrying. And there ain't no sense in worrying 'bout things you ain't got control over, 'cause if you ain't got control over 'em, ain't no sense in worrying. - Satchel Paige