S&W Trigger Job?

Patrick · January 1, 1999, 03:18 AM

I had the opportunity to fire a friend's match S&W .38 revolver the other day and was amazed at the smooth and light trigger it had. Certainly not what I was used to with my 586.

I have since been told that a smith will polish away on certian parts, and completely remove others to get such a light smooth pull.

Is this correct? Removing parts?

How do I get that trigger great trigger on my gun?

Patrick

George Stringer · January 1, 1999, 07:35 AM

Patrick, I wouldn't remove any parts. On revolver trigger jobs I use a 9 point check list that covers any part that may interfere with a smooth trigger. After that, if necessary, I may use a reduced weight mainspring and rebound spring. Mostly though it's a matter of polishing. George

**4V50 Gary** · January 1, 1999, 09:36 AM

Patrick,

Remove parts? You may modify parts but shouldn't remove them. They were put there for a reason and may have a role in the built in safety system of the gun.

Witness the rebound slide of the S&W revolver. It not only serves to return the trigger, and as a base for the hammer block, but also serves indepently as a hammer block in its own right since it prevents the hammer from rotating fully forward when the trigger isn't depressed (the step of the rebound slide intercepts the step at the base of the hammer). Early Taurus guns had this feature but later ones omit it (that's why I'll always take a S&W over Taurus, even if it's $100 more).

While it's not hard to tune the trigger of a S&W revolver, it's also not a task to tackle without training. Better to take it to a reputable gunsmith than have a buddy pry off the sideplate or try it yourself. If you would like to do it yourself, try attending a NRA Gunsmithing class. You can find the NRA via the links to this website and NRA classes are more affordable than the factory armorer's school.

Gary

Patrick · January 1, 1999, 03:30 PM

Thanks guys - I kind of thought that the guy who told me that was a bit, how shall we say, "off."

I have replaced the mainspring and rebound spring with some reduced weight springs from Wolf, which has lightened the trigger pull to some extent, but has not smoothed it out a bit.

I will ask around for a good smith in my area to do the "polish" job mentioned above.

Patrick.

**4V50 Gary** · January 1, 1999, 08:54 PM

Patrick,

A distinction between a self-defense firearm and a target gun must be drawn. A target gun is like a prima donna who wants to be fed a special ammunition diet. She may not or will not work with all types of ammo or under non-match conditions.

A self defense firearm must be reliable. Period. It must shoot first time, every time and lightening the spring could compromise ignition. Lightening the rebound slide spring could slow the rebound slide down; impeding its safety function. If you're 586 is a target/range gun which you won't use in self defense, no problem. Enjoy. If you want it to do double duty, ensure its reliability by testing it with the ammunition you plan to use for self defense. Have fun.

4v50 Gary

Patrick · January 2, 1999, 12:55 AM

Gary -

A good point. My 586 is NOT my defensive weapon. Although it's a great gun, it's kind of hard to conceal that big 6" bbl. I just want this one to be a smooth, accurate, match gun.

Patrick

olegunftr · January 3, 1999, 10:57 PM

Strangely enough, the 2 of the last 3 new smith wheel guns I bought had crummy DA. I care cause that is the only way I shoot them. Both of them had problems in the rachet/hand area rather than the trigger - hammer surfaces. I'm a smith armorer, but it still took me a while to get it right. one was s 686.

------------------
Vinny

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January 1, 1999, 03:18 AM	#1
Patrick Member Join Date: December 18, 1998 Posts: 31	I had the opportunity to fire a friend's match S&W .38 revolver the other day and was amazed at the smooth and light trigger it had. Certainly not what I was used to with my 586. I have since been told that a smith will polish away on certian parts, and completely remove others to get such a light smooth pull. Is this correct? Removing parts? How do I get that trigger great trigger on my gun? Patrick

January 1, 1999, 07:35 AM	#2
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Patrick, I wouldn't remove any parts. On revolver trigger jobs I use a 9 point check list that covers any part that may interfere with a smooth trigger. After that, if necessary, I may use a reduced weight mainspring and rebound spring. Mostly though it's a matter of polishing. George

January 1, 1999, 09:36 AM	#3
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,829	Patrick, Remove parts? You may modify parts but shouldn't remove them. They were put there for a reason and may have a role in the built in safety system of the gun. Witness the rebound slide of the S&W revolver. It not only serves to return the trigger, and as a base for the hammer block, but also serves indepently as a hammer block in its own right since it prevents the hammer from rotating fully forward when the trigger isn't depressed (the step of the rebound slide intercepts the step at the base of the hammer). Early Taurus guns had this feature but later ones omit it (that's why I'll always take a S&W over Taurus, even if it's $100 more). While it's not hard to tune the trigger of a S&W revolver, it's also not a task to tackle without training. Better to take it to a reputable gunsmith than have a buddy pry off the sideplate or try it yourself. If you would like to do it yourself, try attending a NRA Gunsmithing class. You can find the NRA via the links to this website and NRA classes are more affordable than the factory armorer's school. Gary

January 1, 1999, 03:30 PM	#4
Patrick Member Join Date: December 18, 1998 Posts: 31	Thanks guys - I kind of thought that the guy who told me that was a bit, how shall we say, "off." I have replaced the mainspring and rebound spring with some reduced weight springs from Wolf, which has lightened the trigger pull to some extent, but has not smoothed it out a bit. I will ask around for a good smith in my area to do the "polish" job mentioned above. Patrick.

January 1, 1999, 08:54 PM	#5
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,829	Patrick, A distinction between a self-defense firearm and a target gun must be drawn. A target gun is like a prima donna who wants to be fed a special ammunition diet. She may not or will not work with all types of ammo or under non-match conditions. A self defense firearm must be reliable. Period. It must shoot first time, every time and lightening the spring could compromise ignition. Lightening the rebound slide spring could slow the rebound slide down; impeding its safety function. If you're 586 is a target/range gun which you won't use in self defense, no problem. Enjoy. If you want it to do double duty, ensure its reliability by testing it with the ammunition you plan to use for self defense. Have fun. 4v50 Gary

January 2, 1999, 12:55 AM	#6
Patrick Member Join Date: December 18, 1998 Posts: 31	Gary - A good point. My 586 is NOT my defensive weapon. Although it's a great gun, it's kind of hard to conceal that big 6" bbl. I just want this one to be a smooth, accurate, match gun. Patrick

January 3, 1999, 10:57 PM	#7
olegunftr Member Join Date: December 30, 1998 Location: marietta, ga, usa Posts: 71	Strangely enough, the 2 of the last 3 new smith wheel guns I bought had crummy DA. I care cause that is the only way I shoot them. Both of them had problems in the rachet/hand area rather than the trigger - hammer surfaces. I'm a smith armorer, but it still took me a while to get it right. one was s 686. ------------------ Vinny