Some say blast with brake cleaner. What about...

Pond, James Pond · January 24, 2015, 01:31 PM

.... contact cleaner

I have an entire can after using it to spruce up the full beam connector on the car.

It must be plastic friendly if useable on circuitry and contacts but apart from that is it a possible alternative? It's what I have and I don't see myself cleaning many other contacts with it, so it'll just sit there otherwise...

Pahoo · January 24, 2015, 01:40 PM

Quote:

contact cleaner

If this is anything like the contact or electrical cleaner that I have used, it should be fine. It's always a good idea to test it, just to make sure. I have fond that a can of contact cleaner usually costs more than a can of brake cleaner. The back guy to watch out for, is "Carburetor Cleaner". ......

Be Safe !!!

HiBC · January 24, 2015, 04:10 PM

I once was a proponent of the various chlorinated hydrocarbon sprays.I picked up a little education from Schuemann Barrels,and he presents info from Mr Borden of Precision Shooting Magazine.

I'm convinced,to err on the safe side,I just don't use them anymore.

FWIW,I have an air compressor and a touch-up size spray paint gun.If I need to flush degrease,a little laquer thinner works good.

Please read here

http://schuemann.com/Portals/0/Docum...l_Cleaning.pdf

The chapter on barrel steel is good,too

gman3 · January 24, 2015, 05:38 PM

I read the link, and it seems that he is suggesting to just not clean your barrel. That is interesting, since that is exactly the same thing that I have come to do over the last few years.

I don't clean until I start to see accuracy fall off. In my hunting rifles, that takes quite a while. In rifles that I shoot a lot, it may take as much as 300 or more rounds.

I do run a patch with Hoppes, followed by one with CLP to prevent rust. That's it, nothing more.

cavelamb · January 24, 2015, 05:57 PM

It completely removes ALL oil from the surface and the surface grain of the steel.

It does the same to your hands and lungs.

So use with caution.

Snyper · January 24, 2015, 09:59 PM

I mostly use "carb cleaners" and have never had a problem.

I figure if they don't damage seals in carbs, they are less aggressive tham brake cleaners

I try not to get it on anything other than the metal parts, and I relubricate immediately upon evaporation

As to the "chlorinated" hazards, most of those types have been off the market for a long time, and the most commonly found products are NOT cholorinated

Pond, James Pond · January 25, 2015, 01:19 PM

I too plan to buy carb cleaner. It does seem the least aggressive of all of these types of angry cleaning agents!!

Still, on this occasion I did use the contact cleaner.

I don't think one use will dissolve my gun. And I shouldn't need to do much more for a while as the dri-lube I left there should keep stuff moving and dirt at bay for a while!

natman · January 25, 2015, 01:47 PM

Carb cleaners - designed to dissolve gummy pertroleum residue after a long soak. Unless that's the issue with your gun, you'd be better off with something that's less disruptive of the finishes used on gun wood.

Brake / gun cleaners - more volatile than carb cleaners, will remove oil and loosen dirt to wipe away.

Contact cleaners - extremely volatile, won't hang around long enough to work with.

Formulas vary, I like Gunscrubber.

Use with lots of ventilation and avoid skin contact in any case.

phwe9774 · January 25, 2015, 01:54 PM

I just believe in using parts, tools and solvents for their intended purposes. Can't go wrong using gun solvents and cleaners on guns

Pond, James Pond · January 25, 2015, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Can't go wrong using gun solvents and cleaners on guns

Except that some gun cleaners are re-labelled brake cleaner.

T. O'Heir · January 25, 2015, 02:13 PM

Electrical contacts are cleaned with a pencil eraser or WD-40(assuming you can get it where you are).

Pond, James Pond · January 25, 2015, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Electrical contacts are cleaned with a pencil eraser or WD-40

Or contact cleaners!!

g.willikers · January 25, 2015, 02:23 PM

As an old car guy, I've been using auto cleaning products on guns for a long time with success.
Mostly for the cleaning effectiveness and low prices.
So far the only damage done was to some plastics.
Always test first, and for finish damage.
And that's true for official gun products, too.

Gunfixr · January 25, 2015, 04:02 PM

I clean a lot of guns.
I have used the various spray can cleaners, both gun scrubber and automotive cleaners.
Unless your gun is not very dirty to begin with, and you're mostly just replacing the oil, they suck, and will end up costing more than breaking out the solvent and a brush. It often takes a lot of spray cleaner to get caked in crud out of corners and crevices. Yes, it dissolves it, but it dissolves it a lot slower than it evaporates, so you have to keep re applying it.
So, if you clean real often, and there isn't much inside the gun, and that is real wet, sprays will mostly work. If not, they will leave a lot behind. Also, they don't change having to take the gun down near as much as many think. They flush out some gunk, but often they leave behind just as much, if not more.
I even have an ultrasonic cleaner, and it won't always remove the crud that gets built up inside a gun.

Snyper · January 25, 2015, 06:57 PM

Quote:

I just believe in using parts, tools and solvents for their intended purposes. Can't go wrong using gun solvents and cleaners on guns

The solvents are the same
The only difference is on the label and the price tags

Quote:

Formulas vary, I like Gunscrubber.

From reading MSDS sheets, that appears to be identical to most carb cleaners

They all blast off residue, and dissolve oils

January 24, 2015, 01:31 PM	#1
Pond, James Pond Senior Member Join Date: July 12, 2011 Location: Top of the Baltic stack Posts: 6,079	Some say blast with brake cleaner. What about... .... contact cleaner I have an entire can after using it to spruce up the full beam connector on the car. It must be plastic friendly if useable on circuitry and contacts but apart from that is it a possible alternative? It's what I have and I don't see myself cleaning many other contacts with it, so it'll just sit there otherwise... __________________ When the right to effective self-defence is denied, that right to self-defence which remains is essentially symbolic. Freedom: Please enjoy responsibly.

January 24, 2015, 05:57 PM	#5
cavelamb Member Join Date: March 31, 2013 Posts: 52	It completely removes ALL oil from the surface and the surface grain of the steel. It does the same to your hands and lungs. So use with caution. __________________ Duct tape is like the force. It has a dark side, a light side, and hold the universe together. NRA Life Member

January 24, 2015, 09:59 PM	#6
Snyper Senior Member Join Date: December 16, 2013 Location: Eastern NC Posts: 3,047	I mostly use "carb cleaners" and have never had a problem. I figure if they don't damage seals in carbs, they are less aggressive tham brake cleaners I try not to get it on anything other than the metal parts, and I relubricate immediately upon evaporation As to the "chlorinated" hazards, most of those types have been off the market for a long time, and the most commonly found products are NOT cholorinated __________________ One shot, one kill Last edited by Snyper; January 24, 2015 at 10:11 PM.

January 25, 2015, 01:19 PM	#7
Pond, James Pond Senior Member Join Date: July 12, 2011 Location: Top of the Baltic stack Posts: 6,079	I too plan to buy carb cleaner. It does seem the least aggressive of all of these types of angry cleaning agents!! Still, on this occasion I did use the contact cleaner. I don't think one use will dissolve my gun. And I shouldn't need to do much more for a while as the dri-lube I left there should keep stuff moving and dirt at bay for a while! __________________ When the right to effective self-defence is denied, that right to self-defence which remains is essentially symbolic. Freedom: Please enjoy responsibly.

January 25, 2015, 02:13 PM	#11
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	Electrical contacts are cleaned with a pencil eraser or WD-40(assuming you can get it where you are). __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

January 24, 2015, 04:10 PM	#3
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,283	I once was a proponent of the various chlorinated hydrocarbon sprays.I picked up a little education from Schuemann Barrels,and he presents info from Mr Borden of Precision Shooting Magazine. I'm convinced,to err on the safe side,I just don't use them anymore. FWIW,I have an air compressor and a touch-up size spray paint gun.If I need to flush degrease,a little laquer thinner works good. Please read here http://schuemann.com/Portals/0/Docum...l_Cleaning.pdf The chapter on barrel steel is good,too

January 24, 2015, 05:38 PM	#4
gman3 Senior Member Join Date: December 19, 2008 Posts: 408	I read the link, and it seems that he is suggesting to just not clean your barrel. That is interesting, since that is exactly the same thing that I have come to do over the last few years. I don't clean until I start to see accuracy fall off. In my hunting rifles, that takes quite a while. In rifles that I shoot a lot, it may take as much as 300 or more rounds. I do run a patch with Hoppes, followed by one with CLP to prevent rust. That's it, nothing more.

January 25, 2015, 01:47 PM	#8
natman Senior Member Join Date: June 24, 2008 Posts: 2,606	Carb cleaners - designed to dissolve gummy pertroleum residue after a long soak. Unless that's the issue with your gun, you'd be better off with something that's less disruptive of the finishes used on gun wood. Brake / gun cleaners - more volatile than carb cleaners, will remove oil and loosen dirt to wipe away. Contact cleaners - extremely volatile, won't hang around long enough to work with. Formulas vary, I like Gunscrubber. Use with lots of ventilation and avoid skin contact in any case.

January 25, 2015, 01:54 PM	#9
phwe9774 Member Join Date: February 17, 2014 Posts: 67	I just believe in using parts, tools and solvents for their intended purposes. Can't go wrong using gun solvents and cleaners on guns

January 25, 2015, 02:23 PM	#13
g.willikers Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 10,442	As an old car guy, I've been using auto cleaning products on guns for a long time with success. Mostly for the cleaning effectiveness and low prices. So far the only damage done was to some plastics. Always test first, and for finish damage. And that's true for official gun products, too. __________________ Walt Kelly, alias Pogo, sez: “Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent.”

January 25, 2015, 04:02 PM	#14
Gunfixr Senior Member Join Date: June 10, 2007 Location: East Coast, USA Posts: 360	I clean a lot of guns. I have used the various spray can cleaners, both gun scrubber and automotive cleaners. Unless your gun is not very dirty to begin with, and you're mostly just replacing the oil, they suck, and will end up costing more than breaking out the solvent and a brush. It often takes a lot of spray cleaner to get caked in crud out of corners and crevices. Yes, it dissolves it, but it dissolves it a lot slower than it evaporates, so you have to keep re applying it. So, if you clean real often, and there isn't much inside the gun, and that is real wet, sprays will mostly work. If not, they will leave a lot behind. Also, they don't change having to take the gun down near as much as many think. They flush out some gunk, but often they leave behind just as much, if not more. I even have an ultrasonic cleaner, and it won't always remove the crud that gets built up inside a gun.