45 AUTO vs 45 AUTO+P

trixter · January 16, 2014, 06:00 PM

OK, help here; is there any difference these are head stamped R P. Everything looks the same.

HiBC · January 16, 2014, 06:12 PM

I do not know about R-P,but if you go to the Starline brass website,they tell you the difference for their brass.(Its different)

Remember the case is not well supported on a 1911.

JimDandy · January 16, 2014, 06:23 PM

According to this forum R P headstamp stands for Remington Peters a supposedly/possibly supposedly older Remington Brass.

Wreck-n-Crew · January 16, 2014, 06:24 PM

Remember the case is not well supported on a 1911.
Please elaborate! Did you mean on some?

Nick_C_S · January 16, 2014, 07:09 PM

R-P is just Remington brass. Load away.

HiBC · January 17, 2014, 04:59 AM

As far as whether to use your R-P 45+P brass,of course you can use it.

My comments were more about"If I want to push +P in my 1911 should I use +P brass?"

I,myself,am not hot rodding my 1911's.

If someone wants to push +P,it might be a good idea to use +P brass.

From Starline's site:

45 Auto +P Brass (Large Pistol primer)

45 Auto +P Brass 45 ACP+P, 45 Automatic+P
0.892 - 0.897 O.A.L.
The 45 Auto+P is a strengthened version of the 45 Auto with the same external dimensions. A thicker web and heavier sidewall at base strengthens the case in potentially unsupported areas. This case has approximately 2 grains less internal water capacity than the standard 45 Auto.

As far as case support:I am not looking this up,its in my fuzzy head.I do not know if it is CUP,or PSI,or even LUP,but ball park,the 1911 45 was meant to work at about 18,000 psi.

With a standard,non-ramped barrel,the lower feed ramp portion of the chamber is cut forward enough the steel does not support all of the brass case.Hot rodding,at some point will produce cases that are bulged in the unsupported part.

That is why they developed the ramped barrel modification for those hotrodding 38 Super,etc,as they were sneaking up on 40,000 psi.

To the OP's question,your brass is fine to use.If a person is persuing +P,it not a bad plan to use +P brass.

Another reason,you may have another gun ,like a Gold Cup,that you would prefer not to shoot the +P in.

January 16, 2014, 06:00 PM	#1
trixter Member Join Date: February 27, 2011 Location: Where E. Pine St. crosses I-5 Posts: 51	45 AUTO vs 45 AUTO+P OK, help here; is there any difference these are head stamped R P. Everything looks the same.

January 16, 2014, 06:24 PM	#4
Wreck-n-Crew Senior Member Join Date: March 8, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,820	Remember the case is not well supported on a 1911. Please elaborate! Did you mean on some? __________________ If you ever have to use a firearm, *you don't get to pick the scenario!*

January 16, 2014, 07:09 PM	#5
Nick_C_S Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2013 Location: Idaho Posts: 5,524	R-P is just Remington brass. Load away. __________________ Gun control laws benefit only criminals and politicians - but then, I repeat myself. Life Member, National Rifle Association

January 16, 2014, 06:12 PM	#2
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,288	I do not know about R-P,but if you go to the Starline brass website,they tell you the difference for their brass.(Its different) Remember the case is not well supported on a 1911.

January 16, 2014, 06:23 PM	#3
JimDandy Senior Member Join Date: August 8, 2012 Posts: 2,556	According to this forum R P headstamp stands for Remington Peters a supposedly/possibly supposedly older Remington Brass.

January 17, 2014, 04:59 AM	#6
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,288	As far as whether to use your R-P 45+P brass,of course you can use it. My comments were more about"If I want to push +P in my 1911 should I use +P brass?" I,myself,am not hot rodding my 1911's. If someone wants to push +P,it might be a good idea to use +P brass. From Starline's site: 45 Auto +P Brass (Large Pistol primer) 45 Auto +P Brass 45 ACP+P, 45 Automatic+P 0.892 - 0.897 O.A.L. The 45 Auto+P is a strengthened version of the 45 Auto with the same external dimensions. A thicker web and heavier sidewall at base strengthens the case in potentially unsupported areas. This case has approximately 2 grains less internal water capacity than the standard 45 Auto. As far as case support:I am not looking this up,its in my fuzzy head.I do not know if it is CUP,or PSI,or even LUP,but ball park,the 1911 45 was meant to work at about 18,000 psi. With a standard,non-ramped barrel,the lower feed ramp portion of the chamber is cut forward enough the steel does not support all of the brass case.Hot rodding,at some point will produce cases that are bulged in the unsupported part. That is why they developed the ramped barrel modification for those hotrodding 38 Super,etc,as they were sneaking up on 40,000 psi. To the OP's question,your brass is fine to use.If a person is persuing +P,it not a bad plan to use +P brass. Another reason,you may have another gun ,like a Gold Cup,that you would prefer not to shoot the +P in.