Do it yourself duracoating

[Martian_Summer]

I have an old pistol that shoots like a dream but it's got a lot of superficial wear. I've looked into having it reblued, but the more I think about it, I'd like to have it not look like every other model out there, which brings me to duracoating. It's like to give it a bi-tone look with maybe black and desert beige going on.

I can't find anyone in my immediate area who does this, but there are DIY kits available. I live in an apartment, so I don't have a yard or a garage to do this. How messy is it and is there any danger from fumes? Further, how much risk am I running of messing up my gun forever? That is to say, is it possible to simply remove the "paint" and start over?

I just don't want to get into something over my head here.

Thanks.

[Scorch]

If you just want something simple, Duracoat is not it (good finish, just not simple). Simple: Brownells sells baking lacquer in a variety of colors. Just rough up the finish (I recommend 220 grit wet/dry paper on a wooden block, try to keep the lines straight, just few swipes to expose new metal), degrease with alcohol or acetone, spray on the lacquer holding the parts on a stick or wire, the bake in your oven for an hour. Let it cool, then reassemble.

[Mac's!]

Any finish that you apply is only as good as the preparation work. To do it right, you'll have to 100% disassemble and abrasive blast each part that is getting the new finish. I've never used duracoat (and refuse to!) so I don't know how messy it is. Any finish that you have to cook to cure, will produce fumes and smells. That may not be a problem for you but remember: In this day and age, strange "chemically" smells coming out of an apartment will cause curiousity and maybe even bring the cops. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com

[cmoulton]

I used gunkote on my old beretta heres the thread I made, it held up very well!

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=472112

[tobnpr]

Duracoat on my CZ-82, from a Preval sprayer.
No special prep after disassembly, other than degreasing (no bead blasting).
Trick (as with any spray job) is a series of light coats to avoid runs. Runs, you're done...

[Bob_in_Fla]

Question for all you duracoaters out there: How long should I let the stuff cure before applying degreaser to it?

The reason behind the question is, I'm coating different parts of the same frame different colors, and not in a way that's conducive to laying one color on top of the other. So for the first color, I degreased everything, taped off what I didn't want to paint, went through the process and it's ok.

But now I'd like to do the second color. I figure after handling the frame to tape and untape the masking for the first color, it should probably be degreased again. But how long should I wait to do that so it doesn't damage that first color?

An alternative I considered is taping the first color before degreasing, but I figure the degreaser will just un-stick the tape.

Before anyone asks -- I figured it was more courteous to post this in the existing duracoat thread than to start a new one.


And one more question while I'm at it: Lauer says a duracoated part is ready for "normal" use after 24 hours. Is putting a couple hundred rounds through a handgun at a range "normal" use?

[ClydeFrog]

Really, DIY projects or "kitchen table gunsmithing" may seem fun but Id rather send off my firearm to a trained certified shop like GOE Gunworks or Swanson Armory in J-Ville Florida.
They have warranty programs & do top notch work.

Clyde

[Roughedge]

When I Dura-coat I wait 24 hours before I assemble the gun and dont handle it much for 3 or 4 days to make sure its good and dry.

[tobnpr]

If you used the proper tape to mask, it shouldn't have left any residue on the already degreased parts- so I wouldn't worry about degreasing again.

When handling, just put on a rubber glove or finger socks so that you don't leave any skin oils on the metal.

If it did, I'd test on a very small part/area (pref. one not visible when assembled) to be sure that the paint has cured enough to where it won't be affected by the solvent.

Check the Duracoat instr. for overcoat times. If not done within a certain time frame, usually a light sanding is required for a mechanical bond between coats.