s&w 500 post size??

[TheFisherman]

Greetings everyone,
Ive been reloading auto handgun ammo for a few years now and i have started loading my s&w 500. I always post size my auto rounds (in the way of the lee factory crimp die) and put an extremely light crimp on them. Ive been using the redding profile crimp for a heavier crimp on my 500. Now my question is is there any benift from post sizing these for extra neck tension?? I mean its not like they have to cycle smooth if they fit in the cylinder that should be good enough right? Ps I load 400 grain speers with AA#9 and 700 grains with h110. Any insight is apprechiated.

[snuffy]

Post sizing? Fence posts? Get them the size that fits into the hole you dug----?

Alright it's a bit late for April fools, but I couldn't resist!

Post sizing almost always results in LESS grip on a bullet. The brass compresses the bullet, the bullet jacket then compresses the lead core of the bullet. The brass and jacket spring back the lead core does not spring back. This leaves the bullet loose in the case.

The 500 S&W MUST have a heavy roll crimp into the cannelure to hold the bullet from movement during the heavy recoil generated by that hand cannon. I have one so I speak from experience.

I too use the redding profile crimp die for .357 and my 44 magnum loads. But I have yet to buy one for my 500. So far the lee crimp/seater die has been enough.

[TheFisherman]

Snuffy - Thanks alot for you input I really appreciate it. I was definitly thinking the wrong way on the post size thanks for setting my strieght. I load some powerhouse 10mm with aa#9 for my glock 20. You got me thinking maybe I should forego the lee factory crimp die on those. Im figureing more neck tension will give that load the extra split second it needs to build up pressure it needs.

[Sevens]

I understand that many people believe the Lee Carbide FCD is the greatest thing since sliced bread, and I truly have softened my adversarial stance on it over the last couple of years. But one fact shouldn't be overlooked:

Guys had been building fantastic handloads for nearly a hundred years before this tool hit the market.

I think everyone would be -FAR- better off if they went to their Lee FCD when they find a specific use for it, but leave the darn thing in the box if they don't.

The .500 Mag is nothing more than a big 'ole revolver round. Put a nice, big roll crimp on your rounds and test your crimp. (see next post!) And if your crimp works, please don't futz with the Lee FCD.

[Sevens]

Test your roll crimp in a HEAVY magnum revolver round like this:

• Make up a load that is safe, heavy, and does what you want
• Take a sharpie marker and draw a line on ONE of them
• Load your big X-frame with five rounds
• Shoot four of them, do NOT shoot the marked round
• Eject the spent brass & marked round
• Load up with five more rounds, the 5th round being your same marked round
• Shoot four more rounds
• Eject spent brass & marked round
• whip out your dial caliper and measure the COAL of your marked round

That marked round has now been through exactly TWICE the amount of hell it should ever go through in a normal shooting event. If you did things well at the load bench, your COAL should be where it needs to be with no "walking out" of that big slug.

[snuffy]

This is for some reading this thread that don't know what happens to magnum revolver rounds IF they are NOT crimped heavily enough.

Ever hear of a kinetic pullet puller or hammer type bullet puller? Do you know the physics of how and why it works? You drop it in the top, whack it on something really solid, ( I use a paving brick), it pulls the bullet from the case. It works by momentum or kinetic energy. You get it moving pretty fast, then suddenly stop it. The energy built up in the bullet causes it to walk out of the case.

A magnum revolver, or any revolver, works in oposite fashion. the bullets of the unfired rounds are static, not moving. They are accelerated from standing still to a pretty fast rate of speed. The tendency of an object is to stay stationary unless acted upon by an external force. The shell that's firing moves the whole gun including all the unfired shells AND their bullets. Those bullets "pull" themselves from the brass.

Lee FCD dies tend to be taper crimp dies. They're "SUPPOSED to be roll crimpers for revolver calibers. The one I TRIED to use for 44 magnum did not give a roll crimp. I ordered my first Redding profile crimper after reading about it here on this forum. The best die I've ever used!

[TheFisherman]

Steves - thats an awesome idea man. Im definitely going to try it. I'll let you know if my crimp survives. There isnt a lee FCD for s&w 500 (normaly, I think you can get a custom one) or I might have been using it on my 500. Thanks for advice guys, im new to reloading for revolvers. The redding sure puts a decent crimp on these bad boys so hopefully ill be ok. These arent boyscout loads though so ill have to see.

[Jeff2131]

All the advice here is 100% accurate. I asked these guys about loading the 500s&w a while back and got this advice and used it. My reloads were spot on, never budged at all, and were damn accurate! Try the Barnes XPB 350gr bullet. Very snappy and i was nailing steel at 50yards with it....consistantly! I friggin love the hand cannon.