Savage model 420

elmbow · December 7, 2013, 04:49 PM

Picked up a nearly 100% 16 gauge Savage 420 the other day and I want to take it apart for a thorough cleaning, but before I break something, I thought would ask if anyone has some advice on T/D of this piece. The barrel hinge pin looks to be a permanent fixture through barrels and receiver block, preventing the barrels from separating like a typical double or O/U would.
Any helpful tutorials or videos or just an owner who has been through this process successfully? I'm a bit of a "smith" and will probably figure it out, but foreknowledge is always a good thing.
Typically one can find such info on the web, but all I can find for this old blunderbuss is a parts diagram. Pretty short lived model for Savage.

Scorch · December 8, 2013, 02:30 AM

First off, just because you are a tinkerer does not make you a smith. Not trying to be negative, just be respectful of those who really are gunsmiths.

The barrels dismount from the receiver like any other O/U shotgun. The forearm is held in place by a spring latch. Remove the forearm and lift the barrels off the hinge pin. The stock draw bolt is reached by taking the butt pad off and using a long screwdriver to unscrew the draw bolt. Do not try to disassemble the lockwork, just spray it out with solvent and remove any grime and varnished oil with a brush. There is nothing in the lockwork you need to mess with, so don't. Put the buttstock back on and make sure it is tight. Punch the bores as you would any shotgun. Lightly lube the hinge pin and bearing surfaces before reassembly.

Be aware that any parts that get damaged are irreplaceable, so be very careful and don't get rough with it.

elmbow · December 9, 2013, 12:39 AM

Thanks Scorch, the screws in the forend threw me off. I initially removed those and removed the wood from the spring loaded hanger. I am not used to seeing a forend on a double gun without a latch to pull. Got past that and voile, the forend snapped off and the rest was all good. Cleaned, lubed and reassembled. I'll bet this gun never saw the field more than a few times. Nearly NOS.
Thanks for the help. Sorry about offending anyone's sensibilities by misappropriating a sacrosanct term. I respect people who earn it, labels are meaningless to me. In my 65 years I'd guess that about half the fellows I've dealt with who were "gunsmiths", we're mostly bumbling idiots. Henceforth I'll call myself a "hobbyist", is that ok?

December 7, 2013, 04:49 PM	#1
elmbow Member Join Date: August 9, 2012 Location: Utah Posts: 81	Savage model 420 Picked up a nearly 100% 16 gauge Savage 420 the other day and I want to take it apart for a thorough cleaning, but before I break something, I thought would ask if anyone has some advice on T/D of this piece. The barrel hinge pin looks to be a permanent fixture through barrels and receiver block, preventing the barrels from separating like a typical double or O/U would. Any helpful tutorials or videos or just an owner who has been through this process successfully? I'm a bit of a "smith" and will probably figure it out, but foreknowledge is always a good thing. Typically one can find such info on the web, but all I can find for this old blunderbuss is a parts diagram. Pretty short lived model for Savage.

December 8, 2013, 02:30 AM	#2
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	First off, just because you are a tinkerer does not make you a smith. Not trying to be negative, just be respectful of those who really are gunsmiths. The barrels dismount from the receiver like any other O/U shotgun. The forearm is held in place by a spring latch. Remove the forearm and lift the barrels off the hinge pin. The stock draw bolt is reached by taking the butt pad off and using a long screwdriver to unscrew the draw bolt. Do not try to disassemble the lockwork, just spray it out with solvent and remove any grime and varnished oil with a brush. There is nothing in the lockwork you need to mess with, so don't. Put the buttstock back on and make sure it is tight. Punch the bores as you would any shotgun. Lightly lube the hinge pin and bearing surfaces before reassembly. Be aware that any parts that get damaged are irreplaceable, so be very careful and don't get rough with it. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

December 9, 2013, 12:39 AM	#3
elmbow Member Join Date: August 9, 2012 Location: Utah Posts: 81	Thanks Scorch, the screws in the forend threw me off. I initially removed those and removed the wood from the spring loaded hanger. I am not used to seeing a forend on a double gun without a latch to pull. Got past that and voile, the forend snapped off and the rest was all good. Cleaned, lubed and reassembled. I'll bet this gun never saw the field more than a few times. Nearly NOS. Thanks for the help. Sorry about offending anyone's sensibilities by misappropriating a sacrosanct term. I respect people who earn it, labels are meaningless to me. In my 65 years I'd guess that about half the fellows I've dealt with who were "gunsmiths", we're mostly bumbling idiots. Henceforth I'll call myself a "hobbyist", is that ok?