Distorted casings and seating too deep...newbee question

Housemoney · July 19, 2008, 07:29 PM

I'm starting reloading with my 9mm... I went and test fired my first couple dozen rounds and I had several rounds that measured 1.04-1.06 that were so distorted the action couldn't even close. They seemed to be seated too deep???

Do I not have the flaring die set correctly and am over-flaring the casing?

It seemed that the few that measured around 1.14 give or take a couple hundredths were the correct length.

Thanks!

rg1 · July 19, 2008, 07:44 PM

You should use the cartridge overall length that the data book recommends with the powder charges recommended and the bullet used. Your oal could be too short. What bullet and weight are you using? As far as the flaring of the mouth, you should only flare enough that the bullet will sit in the case mouth enough to get it started into the die. Just enough so that the sharp edge of the mouth does not shave lead or the copper jacket. Then AFTER seating the bullet this flare should be turned back in by using the taper crimp of the seating die. 9mm, 45acp, 40SW loads should be taper crimped.

Housemoney · July 19, 2008, 08:55 PM

124 grain target.

I calibrated my powder scale exactly to 6 grains.

They all had the same amount of powder.

I'm a large guy and exerted when I flared them out...

???

it sounds like I did everything else like you said... I checked the book for powder weight but not length...?

LHB1 · July 19, 2008, 09:54 PM

Your expanding/flaring die should be adjusted so that you pull the handle thru the full movement to the stop built into press. NO EXTRA effort is required. In fact, it requires very minimal effort and feels like almost no resistance. No disrespect, but buy/read instructions in a good reloading manual or instruction sheet that came with your dies. Your post implies that you may have grossly overdone the flaring step. Just enough to let a bullet start without shaving when seating. Good luck.

Housemoney · July 20, 2008, 01:05 AM

Thanks for the response.

I purchased the equipment from a friend and have no manuals. The book that he had really didnt help me understand the reloading process.

LHB1 · July 20, 2008, 10:23 PM

Quote: "I purchased the equipment from a friend and have no manuals. The book that he had really didnt help me understand the reloading process."

OK, got it. Do you know someone who reloads that will let you watch and ask questions. Find a reloading manual with a GOOD explanation of the reloading process. Buy it and read it carefully. I like the Nosler manuals but you might look at the Hornady and Sierra manuals also. One book frequently recommended for new reloaders is ABC's of Reloading. Handloading is as safe or as dangerous as you make it. The hands and eyes you save could be your own.

arizona98tj · July 20, 2008, 11:14 PM

x2 what LHB1 said.

Get a good reloading manual. IMO, you can't go wrong with a copy of Lyman's 48th Reloading Handbook. Easy to find, the price, is right, and they have good info.....besides that, they had 47 previous versions to get it all right.

But seriously, you need a good reloading book to cover the ABCs of the hobby. Be safe, develop good reloading procedures, and you will enjoy it for many, many years to come. I started over 30 years ago and still enjoy it (and I have all of my fingers too!)

gunney 67 · July 22, 2008, 04:01 PM

a taper crimp die is a must for any cylindrical auto pistol cartridge like 9mm. you want enough bullet tension to keep the bullet from being pushed deeper into the case by striking the feed ramp during cycling. It can cause chamber pressures to jump when they are driven into the case deeply. The 9mm is a high pressure round as is (35000psi or so) Just don't over-do it.

gunney 67 · July 22, 2008, 10:25 PM

you'll know if you are over belling the case mouths if they won't go into the seating die without scraping the die sides. the only thing over belling of pistol cases does is work-harden the brass and cause the mouth to split sooner I've never worried about case length on pistol cases, they usually wear out before that becomes an issue. Maybe I've just been lucky for the last 40 years.

mikenbarb · July 23, 2008, 08:02 AM

Housemoney, PM sent.

CrustyFN · July 23, 2008, 12:00 PM

Quote:

I purchased the equipment from a friend and have no manuals. The book that he had really didnt help me understand the reloading process.

Just curious where you are getting your load data if you don't have at least one manual? Reloading isn't rocket science but it does require that you pay attention to detail or you could hurt yourself or someone else very bad. Also where do you live? I bet if there is someone here that lives close to you they would be happy to get you started on the right track. Welcome and load safe.
Rusty

totalloser · July 26, 2008, 12:15 AM

Yeah, you really gotta have books. At LEAST one. I have heard The ABS'c of Reloading is a good starter book, and my favorite is Lee's "Modern Reloading". The first half goes over all the basics, and is very easy to read, and the second half has a bunch of load data. Still goes in depth enough to be good to have once you are up on your feet.

Reloading is one of those things you really need a book laying around.

July 19, 2008, 07:29 PM	#1
Housemoney Junior Member Join Date: July 19, 2008 Posts: 5	Distorted casings and seating too deep...newbee question I'm starting reloading with my 9mm... I went and test fired my first couple dozen rounds and I had several rounds that measured 1.04-1.06 that were so distorted the action couldn't even close. They seemed to be seated too deep??? Do I not have the flaring die set correctly and am over-flaring the casing? It seemed that the few that measured around 1.14 give or take a couple hundredths were the correct length. Thanks!

July 19, 2008, 09:54 PM	#4
LHB1 Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,545	Your expanding/flaring die should be adjusted so that you pull the handle thru the full movement to the stop built into press. NO EXTRA effort is required. In fact, it requires very minimal effort and feels like almost no resistance. No disrespect, but buy/read instructions in a good reloading manual or instruction sheet that came with your dies. Your post implies that you may have grossly overdone the flaring step. Just enough to let a bullet start without shaving when seating. Good luck. __________________ Good shooting and be safe. LB

July 20, 2008, 10:23 PM	#6
LHB1 Senior Member Join Date: March 25, 2005 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,545	Quote: "I purchased the equipment from a friend and have no manuals. The book that he had really didnt help me understand the reloading process." OK, got it. Do you know someone who reloads that will let you watch and ask questions. Find a reloading manual with a GOOD explanation of the reloading process. Buy it and read it carefully. I like the Nosler manuals but you might look at the Hornady and Sierra manuals also. One book frequently recommended for new reloaders is ABC's of Reloading. Handloading is as safe or as dangerous as you make it. The hands and eyes you save could be your own. __________________ Good shooting and be safe. LB

July 20, 2008, 11:14 PM	#7
arizona98tj Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 2007 Location: Arizona Posts: 980	x2 what LHB1 said. Get a good reloading manual. IMO, you can't go wrong with a copy of Lyman's 48th Reloading Handbook. Easy to find, the price, is right, and they have good info.....besides that, they had 47 previous versions to get it all right. But seriously, you need a good reloading book to cover the ABCs of the hobby. Be safe, develop good reloading procedures, and you will enjoy it for many, many years to come. I started over 30 years ago and still enjoy it (and I have all of my fingers too!) __________________ stu-offroad.com Largest Jeep TJ project site on the web! (now with guns)

July 22, 2008, 10:25 PM	#9
gunney 67 Member Join Date: July 21, 2008 Location: boise idaho Posts: 77	you'll know if you are over belling the case mouths if they won't go into the seating die without scraping the die sides. the only thing over belling of pistol cases does is work-harden the brass and cause the mouth to split sooner I've never worried about case length on pistol cases, they usually wear out before that becomes an issue. Maybe I've just been lucky for the last 40 years. Last edited by gunney 67; July 22, 2008 at 11:00 PM.

July 19, 2008, 07:44 PM	#2
rg1 Senior Member Join Date: November 6, 2001 Posts: 1,125	You should use the cartridge overall length that the data book recommends with the powder charges recommended and the bullet used. Your oal could be too short. What bullet and weight are you using? As far as the flaring of the mouth, you should only flare enough that the bullet will sit in the case mouth enough to get it started into the die. Just enough so that the sharp edge of the mouth does not shave lead or the copper jacket. Then AFTER seating the bullet this flare should be turned back in by using the taper crimp of the seating die. 9mm, 45acp, 40SW loads should be taper crimped.

July 19, 2008, 08:55 PM	#3
Housemoney Junior Member Join Date: July 19, 2008 Posts: 5	124 grain target. I calibrated my powder scale exactly to 6 grains. They all had the same amount of powder. I'm a large guy and exerted when I flared them out... ??? it sounds like I did everything else like you said... I checked the book for powder weight but not length...?

July 20, 2008, 01:05 AM	#5
Housemoney Junior Member Join Date: July 19, 2008 Posts: 5	Thanks for the response. I purchased the equipment from a friend and have no manuals. The book that he had really didnt help me understand the reloading process.

July 22, 2008, 04:01 PM	#8
gunney 67 Member Join Date: July 21, 2008 Location: boise idaho Posts: 77	a taper crimp die is a must for any cylindrical auto pistol cartridge like 9mm. you want enough bullet tension to keep the bullet from being pushed deeper into the case by striking the feed ramp during cycling. It can cause chamber pressures to jump when they are driven into the case deeply. The 9mm is a high pressure round as is (35000psi or so) Just don't over-do it.

July 23, 2008, 08:02 AM	#10
mikenbarb Senior Member Join Date: October 10, 2007 Location: N.J. Posts: 1,111	Housemoney, PM sent. __________________ Mike B. Gun control= Being able to hit your target. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/pifinnercircle

July 26, 2008, 12:15 AM	#12
totalloser Senior Member Join Date: October 19, 2007 Location: Fort Bragg, CA Posts: 679	Yeah, you really gotta have books. At LEAST one. I have heard The ABS'c of Reloading is a good starter book, and my favorite is Lee's "Modern Reloading". The first half goes over all the basics, and is very easy to read, and the second half has a bunch of load data. Still goes in depth enough to be good to have once you are up on your feet. Reloading is one of those things you really need a book laying around.