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September 11, 2011, 11:19 AM | #1 |
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firing pin stuck in primer! HELP
Friday while i was at the range i was shooting some of the left over reloads that i had for my S&W 500 from the man that i bought my revolver from, I have never had issues until now...
From the look of what i can see from the side of the cylinder it looks like my frame mounted firing pin is stuck in the primer, so my cylinder will not open, and i can not get the pin out, does anyone have any recommendations?
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FNH SPR A1, Colt H-Bar Elite A-3, Custom Lightweight AR, Troy M1A NM, Springfield 1917, Remington 1100 TAC2, Ithaca 37 Lightweight, Springfield M6 Scout, S&W 332 Airlite, Model 629, Model 657-3, Model 10, Model 686, Model 500 6.5" Lew Horton/ PC Compensated Hunter , marlin .22, Ruger 10/22, Puma M92 carbine .44 16"bbl w/ over-sized loop., Sig Trailside .22, Ruger MKI, Savage 1903, Springfield XD-S, Custom 1911, Ruger 44/96 |
September 11, 2011, 12:16 PM | #2 |
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can you poke it out form the barrel .
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September 11, 2011, 01:06 PM | #3 |
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Not sure but here's a poke at this, Can you cock the hammer so that the cylinder can turn? I was thinking cycling the cylinder enough times might free the firing pin.
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September 11, 2011, 01:19 PM | #4 |
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no dice
last night i tried a bunch of different ways to push the pin out, and the hammer wont cock, and the cylinder wont spin, its pretty much locked up.
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FNH SPR A1, Colt H-Bar Elite A-3, Custom Lightweight AR, Troy M1A NM, Springfield 1917, Remington 1100 TAC2, Ithaca 37 Lightweight, Springfield M6 Scout, S&W 332 Airlite, Model 629, Model 657-3, Model 10, Model 686, Model 500 6.5" Lew Horton/ PC Compensated Hunter , marlin .22, Ruger 10/22, Puma M92 carbine .44 16"bbl w/ over-sized loop., Sig Trailside .22, Ruger MKI, Savage 1903, Springfield XD-S, Custom 1911, Ruger 44/96 |
September 11, 2011, 02:43 PM | #5 |
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A piece of 3/8" drill rod, about an inch longer than the distance from the muzzle to the rear of the cylinder, with about 1/2" of the tip turned down far enough to pass through the flash hole of the fired case, popped with a heavy hammer, should drive the FP back into the recoil face.
Fish the turned rod downbore, and fiddle the narrowed tip into the flash hole before thwacking. First remove the grips & support the gripframe solidly in a padded bench vise. . |
September 11, 2011, 02:48 PM | #6 |
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Just a thought, Locate a thin brazing rod (small enough to fit thru the flash hole) or sand it down to fit, clean the flux from the rod and fish around to find the right spot and tap it with a small hammer, It should strike the anvil and possably free the pin.
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September 11, 2011, 03:11 PM | #7 |
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Or you just might shake it loose by giving the side plate a whack or two with a plastic or rubber face hammer, mallet ,shelaileigh,etc.
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September 11, 2011, 05:16 PM | #8 |
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Get a huge sledge hammer and hit it several hard blows. Then go buy another one.
Seriously, why not just remove the side plate and pull the firing pin back from the inside? I have no idea why the firing pin would stick in the primer; you might find it is binding from some other cause than the primer. Jim |
September 11, 2011, 10:04 PM | #9 |
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ill have to try to get a rod the right size, i think thats the best bet, the firing pin isnt mounted on the hammer so the primer is holding it inside the frame where i cant reach it.
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FNH SPR A1, Colt H-Bar Elite A-3, Custom Lightweight AR, Troy M1A NM, Springfield 1917, Remington 1100 TAC2, Ithaca 37 Lightweight, Springfield M6 Scout, S&W 332 Airlite, Model 629, Model 657-3, Model 10, Model 686, Model 500 6.5" Lew Horton/ PC Compensated Hunter , marlin .22, Ruger 10/22, Puma M92 carbine .44 16"bbl w/ over-sized loop., Sig Trailside .22, Ruger MKI, Savage 1903, Springfield XD-S, Custom 1911, Ruger 44/96 |
September 11, 2011, 10:09 PM | #10 | ||
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Quote:
...... mehbee THIS has something to do with it? Quote:
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September 11, 2011, 10:26 PM | #11 |
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Do you reload or know any reloaders? The decapping pin can be removed from most dies for replacement. Take a turn or two of tape around the pin to protect the rifling, drop the pin down the up turned barrel, shake a bit to get the pin into the flash hole, use a dowel and hammer to loosen the firing pin.
An alternative thought occurs: could what you see be not the firing pin but primer cup that has flowed into the firing pin hole?
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September 11, 2011, 10:55 PM | #12 |
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I'm with jimbob86. The F/pin is probably welded to the primer. I have had to take a mallet to bolt actions that welded in. Good luck with that.
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September 11, 2011, 11:13 PM | #13 |
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weld
the welding might be possible, the issue with the loads wasnt that they were too hot, but that they were older loads before the 500 brass was loaded with rifle primers, so the pin had pierced a couple of primers before but they were just barely pierced.
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FNH SPR A1, Colt H-Bar Elite A-3, Custom Lightweight AR, Troy M1A NM, Springfield 1917, Remington 1100 TAC2, Ithaca 37 Lightweight, Springfield M6 Scout, S&W 332 Airlite, Model 629, Model 657-3, Model 10, Model 686, Model 500 6.5" Lew Horton/ PC Compensated Hunter , marlin .22, Ruger 10/22, Puma M92 carbine .44 16"bbl w/ over-sized loop., Sig Trailside .22, Ruger MKI, Savage 1903, Springfield XD-S, Custom 1911, Ruger 44/96 |
September 12, 2011, 12:11 AM | #14 |
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Did you or the previous owner attempt to lighten the hammer spring tension? Pierced primers are NOT the result of a bad primer or a sharp firing pin, they are the result of a mainspring (hammer spring) that is too light, so that the internal pressure in the primer can blow a piece of it back into the firing pin hole. That leaves the typical round hole in the primer and a piece of brass in the firing pin hole. If part of the primer pushes back into the firing pin hole but does not fully separate from the primer, the gun will be locked up just as you describe. I think you need to check closer before following the advice to drive the firing pin back. You might just lock the gun up worse.
Jim |
September 12, 2011, 12:57 AM | #15 |
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The smith and wesson 500s have a problem with pistol primers because they cant stand up to the high pressure, from what i can see from the side, it looks like its just the firing pin stuck through the primer.
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FNH SPR A1, Colt H-Bar Elite A-3, Custom Lightweight AR, Troy M1A NM, Springfield 1917, Remington 1100 TAC2, Ithaca 37 Lightweight, Springfield M6 Scout, S&W 332 Airlite, Model 629, Model 657-3, Model 10, Model 686, Model 500 6.5" Lew Horton/ PC Compensated Hunter , marlin .22, Ruger 10/22, Puma M92 carbine .44 16"bbl w/ over-sized loop., Sig Trailside .22, Ruger MKI, Savage 1903, Springfield XD-S, Custom 1911, Ruger 44/96 |
September 12, 2011, 09:31 PM | #16 |
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Since you are familiar with the problem, it is a simple matter to remove the sideplate and pull the firing pin back. Just use a good screwdriver and ease off the mainspring tension screw before removing the sideplate.
Jim |
September 19, 2011, 01:56 PM | #17 |
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fixed
fixed it, it took a combination of hammering a filed down nail into the primer pocket, and taking apart the internals to get the cylinder to spin, might need to replace the firing pin though, has anyone dealt with replacing one before?
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FNH SPR A1, Colt H-Bar Elite A-3, Custom Lightweight AR, Troy M1A NM, Springfield 1917, Remington 1100 TAC2, Ithaca 37 Lightweight, Springfield M6 Scout, S&W 332 Airlite, Model 629, Model 657-3, Model 10, Model 686, Model 500 6.5" Lew Horton/ PC Compensated Hunter , marlin .22, Ruger 10/22, Puma M92 carbine .44 16"bbl w/ over-sized loop., Sig Trailside .22, Ruger MKI, Savage 1903, Springfield XD-S, Custom 1911, Ruger 44/96 |
Tags |
pierced primer , s&w 500 , stuck firing pin |
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