Help Identifying a Mauser

[steveNChunter]

I did some trading and ended up with a Mauser. I've wanted one for awhile but havent really been actively looking for one. I dont have much invested in it so if it turns out to be junk I'm not out much. I've never owned one before so I dont know what all the numbers, letters, and symbols mean. I'm sure there are some knowledgeable folks on here that can tell me all about them. Here's what I know, (or think I know) its a German model 98 8mm with a 23" barrel. I think some of the symbols are known as "Waffen Marks." The guy that I got it from said that it was made in 1944 and was some kind of special "sniper version" but I dont know where he got that from. From the way he talked about it I'm not sure he had any idea what it was. It is drilled and tapped for scope mounts and the iron sights have been removed. Its in a good looking Fajen walnut sporter stock that I like. Other than the bluing being gone where the iron sights used to be the gun is in great shape for its age. Here are some pics of the gun and the markings. Can somebody tell me what I've got?

[steveNChunter]

Some more pics:

[SHR970]

Model K98 manufactured by Gustloff Werke in 1944. The bcd is the manufacturers code and the 4 under it is the marking used in 1944.

Your sporterized gun has nonmatching parts as shown by the variety of numbers on the various parts that do not match the guns serial number.

It's no sniper rifle judging by the three holes for the rear scope and how the forward one is misaligned with the rest. The holes are for a Weaver / Redfield mount and another set are for a special Redfield mount that was for military Mausers that didn't have the receiver flattened and retained the clip slot.

[steveNChunter]

Yea I noticed the non-matching numbers but I wasnt too worried about it, even though it degrades the value. As long as it shoots decently accurate I will be satisfied. How do the Gustloff Werke Mausers compare to other K98s? What would you consider it to be worth?

[PetahW]

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What looks like an original (sight stripped) military 8x57 bbl & original military bottom metal & original non-scope safety, bolt handle altered for scope clearance with Swiss-cheesed receiver & an uncheckered aftermarket sporter stock = $200, +/- (max).



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[SHR970]

How do the Gustloff Werke Mausers compare to other K98s?

Considering it was most likely made with slave labor compliments of Buchenwald Concentration Camp....and late war to boot? Let's just say it probably isn't the best of breed.

[steveNChunter]

Well thats not too bad I suppose... I traded a H&R 20 ga. single shot for it.

Hopefully I can get it to shoot halfway decent. What kind of accuracy would be "par" for this gun?

[4V50 Gary]

Depends. I saw a K98 that shot 1" groups at 100 yds.

[steveNChunter]

Everything I can find on a "bcd 4" stamped Mauser says it was made at the Weimar factory which was bombed in 1944. Probably about the same as a Buchenwald model though i suppose

[Scorch]

Not a bad project gun. $200 is a fair price, not great, not bad. A couple of years ago it woould have gone for $100-$150 in that condition. Buy a pre-threaded barrel and finish the conversion to some chambering you might prefer, it's just a parts gun.

[steveNChunter]

What calibers can I just do a barrel swap on? And why do you consider it just a parts gun? I was planning on keeping it the way it is and just mounting a scope on it.

[makarov]

I would see how it shoots before wasting time and money putting another barrel on it. Take it out of the stock, clean it up really well. Find a mount that fits the tapped holes and stick a scope on it and have fun. Even with mismatched numbers it might surprise you and be a good shooter! Have fun. If it shoots well, maybe spray it with Duracoat or something. It looks like in one of the pictures it may have had some kind of paint on it already that is coming off (pic of barrel near the receiver). It isn't a parts gun, just an old Mauser that someone sporterized.

[44 AMP]

Meaning one made up from mixed parts, not one good only for parts.

The non matching numbers mean that at some time the rifle was taken apart, along with others, and all the parts mixed up. THis happened quite often, as guns were cleaned in groups, or reworked in groups.

Assuming the parts are all "good" it makes zero difference to the function of the rifle. Collectors pay the most for guns in original issue condition. Everything that detracts from that standard lowers the value, to a collector.

Your rifle is a mis matched model 98, sporterized, and as such it has no value to a milsurp collector. TO a shooter, its value depends on how good a rifle it is.

You've got a mid grade sporter, not the worst done, but nothing fancy or special. Very little interest in that kind of rifle these days, so they aren't worth much cash. Might be a good shooter, if you find the right load for it, one never knows until you try.

Not collectible, and not a high end piece of work, just a good honest deer gun a bit better suited to the deer woods than the original issue version.

[Scorch]

What calibers can I just do a barrel swap on? And why do you consider it just a parts gun? I was planning on keeping it the way it is and just mounting a scope on it.

Like 44AMP said, it is a parts gun because it is assembled from mismatched parts. This happens when rifles are disassembled and the parts are thrown into separate bins for later use. The parts are still good, but collectors are looking for matching parts guns.

You can rebarrel easily to just about any cartridge that is bsed on the 8X57 case head size, which includes many of the most popular cartridges in use today like 22-250, 243, 6mm Rem, 250 Savage, 257 Roberts, 260 Remington, 7X57, 7-08, 308, and several others. Cartridges based on the 30-06 have the same head size but may be too long fthe magazine box.

You can just mount a scope and shoot it if you want, it's OK.

[steveNChunter]

Not collectible, and not a high end piece of work, just a good honest deer gun a bit better suited to the deer woods than the original issue version.

A deer gun is all it will ever be as long as I have it, so I'm ok with that. If I wouldve bought an all original Mauser I wouldve just sporterized it anyway.

You can rebarrel easily to just about any cartridge that is bsed on the 8X57 case head size, which includes many of the most popular cartridges in use today like 22-250, 243, 6mm Rem, 250 Savage, 257 Roberts, 260 Remington, 7X57, 7-08, 308, and several others.

Thanks for that info. I knew 6mm rem, .257 bob, and 7x57 would work but I didnt know so many others would.

[PetahW]

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FWIW, the cartridges based on the .308 Winchester, i.e. the .243 Win, .260 Rem, 7mm-08, .338 Fed & .358 Win, may offer problematic feeding, due to the case shape difference from the 8x57 family (.257 Bob, 6mm Rem, 7x57) - and then again, you may luck out (ok).



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[steveNChunter]

Thanks for that info. The bore looks decent in the current barrel so I'm going to see how accurate it is. If I can get around 2 MOA or better out of it I'll probably leave it on there for awhile. It will serve as a shorter range deer rifle so driving tacks isn't necessary. But it would be nice

If I ever do re-barrel it, it will most likely be 6mm remington, but .257 bob isnt out of the question.

[44 AMP]

Sometimes these sporters will surprise you. Especially when not using milsurp ammo.

And, one should judge the rifle on its forte' rather than its weaknesses. Three shot groups are more "fair" to a deer gun than 5 shot groups. After all, odds are if you don't get the job done with three, the last couple being "off" probably won't matter.

Remington 8mm corelocks are underpowered by the European standards of the 8x57mm, but are fine for regular deer hunting. They are not hideously expensive (at the moment) and are a good source of reloadable brass. Not really punishing recoil either, if the stock fits you. Close enough to a .30-06 in the field no animal I know of can tell the difference.

Other rounds shoot flatter, but if you can manage 2" of drop, you can manage 3" or whatever, just learn how your rifle & ammo shoot.

[steveNChunter]

Three shot groups are more "fair" to a deer gun than 5 shot groups.

I agree. You could even say that for 2 shots vs. 3, IMO. If your rifle is an adequate caliber for deer and halfway accurate and you have to shoot the same deer more than once, you did something wrong. The only reasons to load more than one bullet when you go hunting is 1.we are human and make mistakes, and 2.there might be more than one deer give you a shot opportunity.

I'm not impressed at all with most american 8x57 ammo, other than the Hornady custom. Its has a 195 gr. Interlock SP at 2500 fps. Thats what I'll hunt with if I can find any (havent so far). If not Ill either shoot Sellier & Bellot or Privi Partizan. I'm not a fan of Wolf ammo but alot of people say that their "Gold" line is nothing more than Privi Partizan, so those might be worth a shot.

I know the american loads will easily kill a deer, but I would also like to hunt black bear with this gun and I want to just use one load.