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July 21, 2014, 09:01 PM | #26 |
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It's not removing the extractor.il keep trying.
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July 21, 2014, 09:07 PM | #27 |
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July 22, 2014, 09:14 AM | #28 |
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Hi MM,
That looks like mine do, I bought a spare bolt head or two in the past. Personally, I wouldn't pull the extractor, it may be too hard to get back in place. As for chambering ammo, if this is something new it's probably the ammo. I'd do any testing outside at the range. There will be some difference between whether you are running ammo home or not. You might use your pinky finger and feel inside the chamber for a rough spot, but remember, these are old military rifles. They are just not going to be very smooth. HTH Best, Rob |
July 22, 2014, 09:37 AM | #29 |
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Hey, rob.
Even if the bolt is a bit hard to close, it won't affect me being able to shoot bit will it? I was thinking taking it to a gunsmith to get it looked at. There is a little bit of a rough spot in the chamber where the rim stops at about 7 o'clock.
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July 22, 2014, 12:01 PM | #30 |
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A hard-to-close bolt should have no effect on the rifle's ability to shoot, just in your ability to cycle it.
Let's define "hard to close". Do you mean rough or hard bolt TRAVEL going forward to chamber a live round, or do you mean closing the bolt HANDLE (rotating & locking it down once the round is chambered)? Denis |
July 22, 2014, 02:05 PM | #31 |
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Hi MM,
Does that mark in the chamber leave a scratch on the side of the brass? That will tell you where any extra friction is coming from, but as Dpris says where does it really get hard to work? i.e. What part of the process is really taking effort? hth Best, Rob |
July 22, 2014, 02:19 PM | #32 |
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My M38 did the samething, hard to close with live round. It ended up being the extractor was slightly bend out of shape.
http://russian-mosin-nagant-forum.co...php?f=5&t=5698 http://forums.gunboards.com/showthre...close-on-round |
July 22, 2014, 03:46 PM | #33 |
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Like it goes forward fine, but pushing the bolt handle down is rather difficult on live ammo and brass.
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July 22, 2014, 03:48 PM | #34 |
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OK, it most probably ain't your chamber.
Do you have a hard time raising the bolt handle, either removing a chambered round, or removing empty brass after firing? Denis |
July 22, 2014, 03:54 PM | #35 |
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Okay, just tried again, occasionally there is some resistance when I push the round into the chamber (before pushing the bolt down). And Denis, after the firing pin has hit the primer or I dry fire the bolt requires some force to eject the casing and open the bolt.
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July 22, 2014, 04:20 PM | #36 |
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Is there any particular ammunition where these symptoms occur more than others, or it is pretty consistent regardless of surplus or commercial brand?
Denis |
July 22, 2014, 04:24 PM | #37 |
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Consistent regardless of ammo or spent or live case.
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July 22, 2014, 04:55 PM | #38 | |
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Did you check to see if the extractor moves freely away from the bolthead- snap a case in/out?
The MN is a push feed rifle- the extractor snaps over the rim of the cartridge when the bolt completes it's forward travel (unlike the Mauser- which is controlled feed, the extractor snaps over the cartridge at the mag). The extractor must then be able to rotate freely around the side of the case as you close the bolt. Quote:
Suggest you take a spent case, and with the bolt open, secure it onto the boltface, making sure the extractor fully snaps over the cartridge rim. Then feed it forward- easing the cartridge mouth over the magazine feed lip- then push the bolt forward to the end of it's travel. NOW, rotate the bolt closed. Any different?
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July 22, 2014, 04:57 PM | #39 |
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The extractor bent away from the bolt head with some force but did not separate completely.
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July 23, 2014, 10:49 AM | #40 |
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Some of these guns are hard to cycle. You can see Russian troops slapping the bolts open and closed in WWII films. You can scrub and clean the thing to death and not get it. I remember reading somewhere that one guy was able to have an effect on this by loosening an overtight front action screw. Cheap to try and non destructive.
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July 23, 2014, 11:04 AM | #41 |
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I took the action screws OUT and it was still hard to cycle. I'm at a loss as to what to do if the pipe cleaners don't work.
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July 23, 2014, 11:16 AM | #42 |
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I had a Mosin bolt that did the same thing.
I polished the sharp edge of the extractor and the slightly rounded the edges. Now it takes no more effort than any other of my Mosin bolts to close. Instead of the extractor snapping over the case it was biting into it due to the sharp edges. Removed the sharp edges and problem solved.
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