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April 14, 2013, 12:53 PM | #1 |
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How do I get the case lube off brass?
I am new to reloading, in fact just getting started. I just deprimed and resized about 300 rounds of .223.
What is the best way to remove the case lube? Can I retumble them to get the lube off the cases? Thanks Doug |
April 14, 2013, 01:13 PM | #2 |
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retumble
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April 14, 2013, 01:16 PM | #3 |
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Doug run them trough the tumbler again for an hour or two. There should not be any case lube left on them. If they seem like they still have some lube on them run them for anouther hour.
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April 14, 2013, 01:38 PM | #4 |
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Thanks they are in the tumbler as I am replying to your posts!
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April 14, 2013, 05:06 PM | #5 |
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You can also just get an old terry cloth towel ....lay it on your workbench...dump the reloaded cartridges onto the towel ....and roll them around under your hand for a few seconds....and it'll come off easily.
I usually dump about 100 finished rounds onto the towel ...and I clean them 20 or so at a time ...then I run them thru a case gague and then box them up. |
April 14, 2013, 05:40 PM | #6 |
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I keep a large glass container filled with lacquer thinner just for this purpose. I made a small metal cup with a screen at the bottom, and it has a long wire handle. I put my resized brass in this cup and give it a nice long dunk in the thinner, maybe 1 minute tops. I then pull the cup, give it a few shakes to be sure the cases fully drain, and then dump them out onto paper towels. Within a few minutes the lacquer thinner evaporates and leave the brass nice and shiny, and squeaky clean. I obviously do this in the basement, and crack a window open since lacquer thinner can have quite a strong scent. This also helps clean the primer pockets, flash holes, and all the lube off the inside of the neck.
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April 14, 2013, 05:52 PM | #7 |
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RCBS Case Lube-2 from my original startup kit is water soluble so I resize and throw my cases on a wet cloth, roll them on it, 30 seconds of dry time, and they're ready to go.
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April 14, 2013, 05:56 PM | #8 |
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Use a water-based lube. I use Ideal Wire Pulling lube with great results. I also use Hornady OneShot too.
I stopped using the old RCBS oil junk years ago. |
April 14, 2013, 05:58 PM | #9 |
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If you can wait a day or two spread the cases out on a towel to let them dry before you re-tumble. Tumble media will last longer if it dosen't get loaded up with wet lube.
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April 14, 2013, 06:18 PM | #10 |
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I rinse mine in white gas. AKA Naptha, Coleman fuel. Here in No. Indiana Amish country we can still buy it at the pump for less than $5.00 a gal.
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April 14, 2013, 06:27 PM | #11 |
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I just bought some Imperial sizing wax to try, as the OP, I was wondering what the best method of removing it would be. I have some IOSSO case cleaner that I used to use before I got a good tumbler, I was wondering how that might work, though it doesn't say anything about lube removal on the box.
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April 14, 2013, 06:53 PM | #12 |
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By "White gas" are you referring to BP premium which used to be Amoco Ultimate? Around here (Georgia) BP ultimate is white gas. It is definitely not the same as Coleman fuel.
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April 14, 2013, 06:56 PM | #13 |
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VFF Doug, most of the time I dont get the lube off. Just wipe the cases with a rag and that is good enough for me. If I do tumble, which is rarely, I tumble after sizing. Tumbling takes care of the lube. I see no reason to tumble before sizing.
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April 14, 2013, 06:59 PM | #14 |
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I just tumble them for 15 minutes after they are loaded.
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April 14, 2013, 07:02 PM | #15 |
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I just wipe mine off with a towel but, does the case lube really need to be removed?
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April 14, 2013, 07:05 PM | #16 |
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You tumble loaded ammo Crusty?
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April 14, 2013, 07:08 PM | #17 |
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I give mine a quick wipe, if some stays I figure it'll take that much longer to corrode
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April 14, 2013, 07:36 PM | #18 |
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For forty years I've used an old towel and never had a problem. Just wipe them off and use.
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April 14, 2013, 07:39 PM | #19 |
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Too many ways that are too time consuming for me. I take an old terry cloth towel and roll then for a second or two , back and forth. That technique is still working well after quite a few rounds.
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April 14, 2013, 08:32 PM | #20 |
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[QUOTEBy "White gas" are you referring to BP premium which used to be Amoco Ultimate? Around here (Georgia) BP ultimate is white gas. It is definitely not the same as Coleman fuel.][/QUOTE]
Please reread my post, it says white gas, AKA Naptha, coleman fuel. AKA means Also Known As. Google to find out just what white gas is. Here, this will save time http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_gas
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April 14, 2013, 08:51 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
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April 15, 2013, 05:20 AM | #22 | |
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Quote:
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April 15, 2013, 07:45 AM | #23 |
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Sometimes I put some rubbing alcohol on a paper towel & clean the lube off while watching TV.
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April 15, 2013, 10:54 AM | #24 |
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As stated above, wipe it off/wash it off/tumble(rattle) it off.
Expanding the process: For bottle necked cases, I generally rattle tub clean grit/sand/carbon to save my sizing dies. Followed with lubricating before sizing and depriming. This is the point you are questioning. Next, I tumble in rubber tubs with water, dawn soap, stainless steel pins. This removed any residue lubrication and cleans out the now broken/cracked carbon scale that is left behind inside the case by some powders. Yes, I check the primer flash holes for those few stuck steel pins. From this point on I am dealing with very clean brass cases, inside and out. Sound like a lot of unneeded effort to some and it maybe but this is what I do. I also trim and square the case mouths (virtually) every reload. I'm looking for total reliability, consistent and my desired degree of accuracy in every loaded round. If these goals are not provided in each and every one of my loads, they would be just dangerous noise makers. Enjoy and be safe, OSOK |
April 15, 2013, 11:02 AM | #25 | |
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Quote:
But then again, I don't use sticky mess lube. Lanolin pump spray is king. By the time my process is done there is very little lube left on the rounds. |
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