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May 2, 2007, 09:54 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: April 6, 2007
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Matching Hulls and Wads
I read that you must match hulls and wads
Ex. BPI hulls to BPI wads Ex. Remington hulls to Remington wads For pressure reasons But could I use BPI wads in Remington hulls....I dont se why I couldnt dont all shells ahev the same width? Thanks dave
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May 2, 2007, 10:52 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: June 10, 2004
Location: Tioga co. PA
Posts: 2,647
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No you do not need to match MFG of hulls and wads. but you must use the wad or it's equivalent called for in the load data.. It's not a matter of width. it's more a matter of length and strength. I use Rem. hulls and Claybuster wads. well I did I don't load shotgun anymore.
I read that you must match hulls and wads Ex. BPI hulls to BPI wads Ex. Remington hulls to Remington wads For pressure reasons But could I use BPI wads in Remington hulls....I dont se why I couldnt dont all shells ahev the same width? Thanks dave |
May 2, 2007, 11:41 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: March 13, 2005
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,687
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As rwilson says, match the load data. The reason is all shotgun hulls are not the same, neither are the wads. To get an idea, cut a Remington "SP" case (usually has longitudinal lines in the case) in half, lengthwise. Do the same for a "RXP" Remington case. You'll see the SP case has a different base construction which requires a wad with shorter "legs." The RXP case is essentially the same construction as the Winchester AA and both cases can use the Win wads. If you use a Win AA wad in an SP case you'll have a tough time crimping the case because there's not enough room. Any time you attempt to use any kind of hulls, check the inside for an idea of how it compares to the case you usually use. You'll find it's easier to stick with a certain case (e.g., WIN AA, Rem rxp) so you don't have to buy a whole inventory of different wads. I should also mention there is no need to load "High brass" cases when you want "magnum" load. The "high brass" was just a marketing thing. I've loaded a 1-5/8 oz #4 turkey load using a Win AA "low brass" case without any problem. You just need a wad with very small legs.
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May 3, 2007, 02:33 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: March 6, 2007
Posts: 132
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Get a couple books with lots of recipes in them, follow them to the letter, and go from there. I always try and settle on a specific hull that will work for what I want, and that will work equally well with the components I have on hand. If you don’t do that you will end up with a serious inventory of hulls, powder, and wads.
I use AA hulls exclusively for skeet, trap, and upland hunting. The only thing that changes is the size of the shot. The only wad I use is a claybuster. I don’t load any magnums anymore, since I basically don’t often hunt ducks or geese anymore. When I do it’s easier to just go buy a box of shells. Keeping it simple is far cheaper since you can buy in bulk, and that makes up for the fact reloading all those hulls is so much faster it gives you a lot more shooting time!! |
May 3, 2007, 03:13 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: March 13, 2005
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,687
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Follow WCW's advice.
I started out and experimented, ended up as he described. I could sell some of the stuff back. Now I just use Win AA in 12GA but I still have a bunch of RXR, SP, AA in 20GA and less than a bunch in 16GA. There is no advantage to any particular hull, and with a wad that fits you can alter the load if you must but it's completely unlike rifle/handgun loading - I don't see any advantage to monkeying with velocity of a ballistically inferior projectile. Follow the receipes. |
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