Crimping for .50AE???

[SAA GunSlinger]

Hello ive been reloading for a year now and I greatly enjoy it. Been making lots of 45 LC for cowboy action shooting, I have begun reloading for my desert eagle .50 AE, i read through the reloading manuel but it just doesn't make any sense how to crimp .50 AE. I understand why bullets have to be crimped and i understand how to crimp for revolvers but trying to crimp for a .50 AE has me confused. I have LEE set that came with 3 dies but no crimper, they say that the seating die can also be used as a crimper as well but im not sure. The instructions in the reloading book have me confused. Also is it necessary? Ive spoke to other reloaders who load for the .50 AE and they said they don't bother crimping for it, is that safe? and How do i crimp for a 50 AE?

[ATCDoktor]

Your bullet seater die has a built in taper crimp function associated with it.

You can seat the bullet and taper crimp at the same time by setting up your die like this:

Once you have the seater set for the oal you want, back the seater plug out a ways, then screw the die in until you get the crimp you want (on the cartridge you just seated). Once there, screw the seater plug back in until it hits the top of the bullet.

FYI, when I load 50ae for my Desert Eagle I seat all my bullets to my desired OAL and then back the seating stem out, run the die down on a loaded cartridge, set my desired crimp and crimp all my loaded rounds in a seperate operation.

I don't seat the bullet and crimp at the same time.

Some do, I do not.

[SAA GunSlinger]

Wow this helps me out greatly, Thank you so much.

[Magnum Wheel Man]

I also load 50 A.E. & the info you have gotten already, is spot on... you don't want to roll crimp any semi auto, as it allows the cartridge to slide in deeper in the chamber, & causes excessive headspace... this is true for any cartridge that headspaces on the case mouth, even revolvers chambered in rimless cartridridges

you can set the die to seat & crimp ( taper ) at the same time, but some people have issues getting everything right, as the bullet is still going down, as the case is squeezed...

I load both ways, & on some cartridges that kick a lot, I've bought Redding profile crimp dies & add a separate taper crimp after the bullet is seated, just to make sure I get it as tight as possible...

BTW... the Desert Eagle recoils less than my Automag 5 ( the lightest of the semi's chambered for that round ) & I have a custom Super Blackhawk also chambered in 50 A.E. which can recoil pretty severly, & a good taper crimp keeps my bullets in place...

[SAA GunSlinger]

ATC Doktor...I followed your instructions and it worked perfectly, after looking at the examples that the reloading book gives to show what it should look like and adjusting the die until I reached the proper crimp like you said, I achieved decently crimped .50 AE rounds, just like the book shows, of course my first few werent the greatest but I tinkered with it and I got it down just right...Thanks so much for all your help again!!!.....Quick question...does the performance level change at all between .50 AE's that haven't been crimped vs ones that have?

[chiefr]

Magnum Wheel Man
I also load 50 A.E. & the info you have gotten already, is spot on... you don't want to roll crimp any semi auto, as it allows the cartridge to slide in deeper in the chamber, & causes excessive headspace... this is true for any cartridge that headspaces on the case mouth, even revolvers chambered in rimless cartridridges

you can set the die to seat & crimp ( taper ) at the same time, but some people have issues getting everything right, as the bullet is still going down, as the case is squeezed...

I load both ways, & on some cartridges that kick a lot, I've bought Redding profile crimp dies & add a separate taper crimp after the bullet is seated, just to make sure I get it as tight as possible...

BTW... the Desert Eagle recoils less than my Automag 5 ( the lightest of the semi's chambered for that round ) & I have a custom Super Blackhawk also chambered in 50 A.E. which can recoil pretty severly, & a good taper crimp keeps my bullets in place...

Wow! Sounds interesting.

[ATCDoktor]

!!!.....Quick question...does the performance level change at all between .50 AE's that haven't been crimped vs ones that have?

Glad you were able to het your crimping concern with 50ae sorted out.

With respect to your question about an performance differences between crimped and uncrimped 50ae ammo I honestly couldn't tell you if theres any or not.

I always taper crimp my 50ae ammo and never fired a round or done any testing with rounds that were uncrimped.

[Magnum Wheel Man]

IMO, a lot depends on the powder... some powders will not burn as fully / efficiently without a good crimp...

BTW... don't use cast bullets in your Desert Eagle ( you may notice some in my pictures below, but my Automag is not gas operated like the D.E. & it doesn't matter in the revolver, or lever gun...

My Automag 5 ( I've since pulled the scope off this gun, but note the slide pull knob, added to help overcome the massive slide springs, & the ports in the slide, that go with the ported barrel )



I'm more a revolver guy, & really like the Super Blackhawk in the 50... also have a custom lever action in 50 A.E. & that gets really interesting

5 shot 50 A.E. Super Blackhawk...





50 A.E. lever...

[SAA GunSlinger]

Thanks for sharing photos of your firearms...Very nice indeed...Love your AMT!!

[Magnum Wheel Man]

does the performance level change at all between .50 AE's that haven't been crimped vs ones that have?

after I posted before, & as an addition to your question... ( & very important )

you do want a firm taper crimp, especially on heavy hitters like the 50 A.E. those big bullets can both move around from recoil, & those big old things can take quite a battering from the slide feeding them to chamber, when they hit the feed ramp on an auto, they can be pushed further into the case, which can effect feeding, but also if the cartridge feeds, but the bullet has pushed into the case, you can greatly increase chamber pressures & damage the gun ( or cause shooter injury )

you may also notice the 50 A.E. has quite a taper, since it was originally designed around .510 rifle bullets, as there weren't any 50 cal pistol bullets before the A.E. came out... the BATF would not approve it over .500", so they had to have .500" bullets made, & tapered the cases to fit... this big taper greatly increases the need for a strong taper crimp, as if the bullet slides inward, it begins to loosen even more, so you want it as tight as possible at the case mouth, this is actually one of the bad things about the 50 A.E. especially when used in revolvers or a tube magazine rifle, where cartridges can batter in the tube magazine... so far, I just run "factory" load levels in both my rifle & revolver, as any additional recoil my cause bullet movement... at factory levels, I haven't had any issues in the revolver or rifle, but when I 1st started loading this round, I had some bullets that pushed into the case on my Automag ( fortunately they didn't finish chambering ) but it's something to watch out for...

BTW... just finish 1000 rounds of 45 Colt myself, for this years CAS... now need to find some more Trailboss, to finish up MRS. 38 special loads

[chiefr]

Magnum,
That is a beautiful 5 shot Ruger.

You are spot on with the heavy taper crimps.

[Magnum Wheel Man]

Thank you sir...

the lever carbine came 1st, & my buddy that built it wanted the left over barrel stub... a couple years later he offered me the revolver he built with that stub of barrel ( along with some custom bullet molds for cast bullets ) he had an (IMO ) a really ugly rubber presentation type grip on it... I found these checkered grips on E-Bay & love the looks... the rubber grips filled the hand better, but I don't have any issues with the wood ones, & love how they look