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October 20, 2013, 11:32 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: January 7, 2012
Location: Auburn, AL.
Posts: 2,332
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Sunday, with the Ranch Dog
Today, I got a Ranch Dog design from NOE to try out. It is the SC 311-165-RF in HP.
I do not know what the SC stands for..... They have a "TL 311-165-RF" also, that is tumble lube. I guess the "SC" stands for "traditional lube". It looks pretty good on their website. We shall see if I can make some of them. Here is the mold......
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. . . Have a Colt and a smile. Last edited by Beagle333; October 20, 2013 at 07:03 PM. |
October 20, 2013, 11:35 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: January 7, 2012
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And here is a shot of the high-tech casting area.
And the mold prep station (as it is known.)
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October 20, 2013, 07:01 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: January 7, 2012
Location: Auburn, AL.
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Here's the results. I like em.
I made enough for quite a while too. I was so amazed at how well this mold cast on the first time out. I usually have to use one for 2 or 3 castings before it works really smoothly. (Mike says I never show the rest of 'em.)
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. . . Have a Colt and a smile. Last edited by Beagle333; October 20, 2013 at 07:06 PM. |
October 21, 2013, 05:17 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: April 8, 2000
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Hey those are PRETTY!!
Now get some slathered down with lube and show us how well they group. If they shoot as good as they look I might have to look into getting one myself.
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LAter, Mike / TX |
October 23, 2013, 11:45 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: March 8, 2013
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As usual, some great pics of some really nice-lookin CBs there Beagle.
Would've really liked to get in on that run but the budget wouldn't let me play. Looks like those run about .06" shorter than the (older? / 'standard'?) NOE 311-165"G" mould I've got, which would probably eliminate the very stiff lever-closing I run into when chambering those rounds. Those pics really make me want to send mine off to have a cavity or two HP'd now though, thanks for that! |
October 25, 2013, 11:51 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: January 7, 2012
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And.... to point out something that might be misleading.... in one of the pics, I'm warming the mold on an open-coil hotplate... but note I have a piece of metal in the background that I was using over the coils when the mold blocks were on the hotplate (an old circular saw blade works great), and in this pic, I had it sprue-plate down to warm the top....
Don't put your mold blocks directly on an open-coil type hotplate. It has the potential to warp the blocks. (it is too late to edit that frame, so I'm writing it here.)
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