357 magnum with standard primers?

[mattL46]

Do you think a standard primer will be sufficient for 4.0-5.3 grains of universal. 140 grn ftx bullets? I have a few federal which are supposed to be on the hot side. Correct me if I'm wrong. And a few Remington smalls. Suggestions please. Thanks folks.

[wncchester]

If you mean do you need magnum primers, no, you'll never know the difference.

[wogpotter]

I just did a test with both primer types (Winchester WSP/WSP-M) using "TiteGroup" powder. Both worked perfectly well but there was a slight reductioin in velocity at the chronograph. 1136 for the WSP-M, & 1105 for the WSP.

[Unclenick]

You really only need the magnum primers for magnum loads of slower spherical powders, IME. H110 and the like seem to perform more consistently with them.

[mattL46]

Thanks folks. My thoughts as well!!

[Hammerhead]

I only use standard primers with Universal in the .357

[Technosavant]

Yeah, that's a really light load in .357. I'd use standard primers.

[mattL46]

Thanks fellas. Again that's what I thought. Even the 5.3 is only a little over 1000fps.

[Rangefinder]

I use standard with red dot, 2400, and HS6 with great performance. You should be fine.

[rclark]

Only powder I use Magnum primers with is IMR 4227. I don't use H110, but H-110/296 is another powder that should be used with a Magnum primer for consistency.

Remember Magnum primers have absolutely nothing to do with Magnum cartridges. It is the powder the primer is trying to ignite that dictates what which type.

[mmb713]

I've always used standard primers in 357 with Universal. I started with CCI500s and when I couldn't find those I've used Remington 1 1/2s. Over the chronograph both primers give identical velocities in 357 and 9mm. Same for CCI300s and Rem 2 1/2s in 45 Auto and 45 Colt with Universal. The Remington 1 1/2 and 5 1/2 are the same except that the 5 1/2 has a harder cup for use in higher pressure cartridges like 357 and 40 S&W. If you can get the 5 1/2 it would be better in 357 Magnum with Universal. Velocity my not be as high as the true magnum powders but according to Hodgdon's data pressure is right up there with them. I've gotten away with using the 1 1/2 with 357 but have since switched to the 5 1/2. My remaining 1 1/2s will be used for 9mm. Remington uses the 1 1/2 for their 9mm factory loads and the 5 1/2 for their 357 loads.

[mattL46]

@rclark. That's what I kinda thought but no experience with universal so thought it was appropriate to ask. Thank you very much for the info.

[mattL46]

@mmb very good info thank you very much!!

[Mike Irwin]

I've only ever used standard primers with my .357 Mag. loads, including with WW 296, which is the same powder as H110.

I just make sure I have a good, firm crimp.

[mattL46]

@mike I'll be doing the same thing. I've got some H110 I'll approach max slowly. Make sure I've got a good stout crimp. should I roll or taper?

[chiefr]

Mike Irwin I've only ever used standard primers with my .357 Mag. loads, including with WW 296, which is the same powder as H110.

I just make sure I have a good, firm crimp.





+1. I have been reloading this one for 40 years and with most powders..

[Revolver1]

I use strictly standard small pistol primers in 357mag. NO difference at all from mag primers. Stopped using mag primers years ago!

[mattL46]

You folks are nothing short of awesome!!

[Hammerhead]

Roll or profile crimp for full magnum loads.

[Hammerhead]

P.S.
Bullet tension (case mouth tension) is just as important as crimp in holding the bullet back during ignition, so make sure you don't expand and flare the case mouth anymore than necessary.

[mattL46]

Hammerhead I probably won't flare them at all.

[Mike Irwin]

"@mike I'll be doing the same thing. I've got some H110 I'll approach max slowly. Make sure I've got a good stout crimp. should I roll or taper?"

If you're shooting top end loads like I occasionally do, a taper crimp isn't going to cut it. You need a pretty hefty roll crimp to A) keep the bullet from jumping under recoil, and B) to make sure you get good ignition of slow-burning powders.

If you're shooting lead bullets, you'll need to bell just a bit to make sure you don't shave lead during seating.

A slight bell also helps when seating jacketed bullets. If you don't bell at all you run the risk of crumpling a case neck if you don't get the bullet started squarely in the case.

If you really don't want to bell, you can always chamfer the case mouth using one of the commonly available tools.

[mattL46]

Yeah mike I had trouble with some 38's very minimal bell took a huge crimp to make the bullets stationary. So I pulled the few I had loaded re- resized them (they were chamfered) and started over with no mouth expansion. Much better. Shoot fine with a minimal crimp.

[Mike Irwin]

"Yeah mike I had trouble with some 38's very minimal bell..."

Then you had something else going on, or a combination of issues.

Belling should rarely, if ever, flare more than the first 1 to 2 mm of a case mouth, which will leave more than enough of a properly sized case to grab hold of a bullet and hold it firmly.

[mattL46]

Hmm. I could have mistakenly had the die in a little too deep. Only issue I can think of considering I'm quite careful. It was only a handful. Haven't had that problem again.