Need help! "How do you remove...

dswindle · June 12, 2005, 07:15 AM

... the firing pin and the stock on a Remington Model 870, 12-gauge Marine Magnum shotgun?"

Folks,
I'm taking a video course in gunsmithing, and I really like it a lot, but I am having some problems right now with my brand new Remington Model 870 Marine Magnum shotgun. I can't figure out how to remove the firing pin retaining pin nor can I figure out how to remove the stock. I have watchd the video, and I realize that you are supposed to punch the retaining pin in the bolt out from top to bottom which releases the firing pin, but no matter how hard I hit the darn thing, the retaining pin will not come out. In fact, all I've managed to do so far is bend two of my punches and even "knurl" the edges on two of my steel punches. Bob Dunlap, American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI) makes it look so easy on the DVD, but I can't get the thing out. Also, my Marine Magnum has a recoil pad on it, so I can't figure out how to get the stock off by going through the heel of the stock. It would appear that if I try to remove the recoil pad, it will damage the stock. There is no other bolt in the stock from which to remove it. The stock is synthetic. Lastly, and this is probably minor, after I got the shotgun back together, I keep hearing something rattle up and down in the shotgun when I tip it toward the barrel end and then the stock end. It sounds like it is coming from the stock, but I have not been able to take it off so I can't really tell. Other than these three issues, I can get everything else apart. Any suggestions from the pros? This is very frustrating. Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

Dfariswheel · June 12, 2005, 01:12 PM

First the firing pin:
The "tricks" are to have the bolt on a SOLID well braced bench, on a block that has a hole in it that will pass the pin.
Next, use a "starter pin punch". This is just a standard punch that's been cut off to a working length of about 1/2" or so.

The reason pins fail to move is, the part is allowed to bounce and move around, and the long punch flexes and bends.
All this dissipates the force of the blows, and all that happens is the pin gets deformed, locking it tightly in the hole.

Get a HARDwood block, drill a hole in it big enough that the retaining pin will clear it.
It's not unusual to just forget that the pin has to have a clearance hole to pass it or the pin has no way come out.
NO amount of hammering can get a pin out when the pin is resting on the bench block. MAKE SURE the block has a clearance hole, and the bolt pin is over it.

Put the block on a FIRM bench or concrete floor.
Cut one of your damaged punches off so the working end is about 1/2" to 3/4" long.
Use a medium sized hammer.

Give the pin firm blows, without hammering it like a nail. Make sure the pin stays over the clearance hole, and the bolt doesn't bounce or move.

Once the pin starts out, switch to a longer punch.

Some watch-outs:
If this is a used gun, it's possible someone put the pin in upside down or in from the top of the bolt.
The pin has splines on the bottom end which serve to hold the pin in place.
If the pin is put in upside down, the splines may be locking it in.
I have seen pins put in from the top of the bolt by people who didn't know better.

In all probability, the pin is deformed by all the hammering, so use the above techniques.

Next the butt pad:
The butt pad on the synthetics has a reduced "lip" that fits inside the stock slightly.
To remove, use a smooth shafted Phillips screwdriver.
Coat the shaft with soap to lubricate it, and push it into the holes at the top and bottom of the pad.
Unscrew each screw, alternating on each until the pad will pull off.
Don't unscrew the screws to the point that they come out of the pad, since this expands the holes and leaves a bigger hole.

While pulling the pad outward, just unscrew one screw a turn or so, then the other until the pad comes off.
As the screws are turned, and the pad is pulled outward, it will move out until the screws release from the stock.

Last the "rattling" sound.
This is the Remington synthetic stock "Gotcha".
At the factory, Remington assembles the synthetic stock with a long bolt, a formed large washer, and a lock washer.
To hold all this together during assembly, Remington also puts a small "Star" washer on the end of the screw to retain everything.

Often this small "Star" washer will slide up and down the stock bolt, making a rattling sound.

The "Fix" is to remove the washer and throw it away, or better, lay it on a firm surface, and use a ball peen hammer to lightly tap the center of the washer to slightly close the "teeth" in the center.
This will make the washer a tighter fit on the stock bolt and will prevent the rattle.

When reassembling the stock bolt and washers, BE SURE to put them on the bolt in the right order, and with the large, formed washer facing the right way.
In order to do this, make a note of the order, and the way the large washer is facing when you disassemble it.

dswindle · June 17, 2005, 10:26 AM

Dfariswheel,
Thank you very much for your response. Sorry I have been so late thanking you, but I just got back into town last night from a business trip. I'll try to take your sage advice this weekend. I really appreciate your help.

June 12, 2005, 07:15 AM	#1
dswindle Member Join Date: January 11, 2005 Posts: 55	Need help! "How do you remove... ... the firing pin and the stock on a Remington Model 870, 12-gauge Marine Magnum shotgun?" Folks, I'm taking a video course in gunsmithing, and I really like it a lot, but I am having some problems right now with my brand new Remington Model 870 Marine Magnum shotgun. I can't figure out how to remove the firing pin retaining pin nor can I figure out how to remove the stock. I have watchd the video, and I realize that you are supposed to punch the retaining pin in the bolt out from top to bottom which releases the firing pin, but no matter how hard I hit the darn thing, the retaining pin will not come out. In fact, all I've managed to do so far is bend two of my punches and even "knurl" the edges on two of my steel punches. Bob Dunlap, American Gunsmithing Institute (AGI) makes it look so easy on the DVD, but I can't get the thing out. Also, my Marine Magnum has a recoil pad on it, so I can't figure out how to get the stock off by going through the heel of the stock. It would appear that if I try to remove the recoil pad, it will damage the stock. There is no other bolt in the stock from which to remove it. The stock is synthetic. Lastly, and this is probably minor, after I got the shotgun back together, I keep hearing something rattle up and down in the shotgun when I tip it toward the barrel end and then the stock end. It sounds like it is coming from the stock, but I have not been able to take it off so I can't really tell. Other than these three issues, I can get everything else apart. Any suggestions from the pros? This is very frustrating. Thank you in advance for any suggestions.

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June 12, 2005, 01:12 PM	#2
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	First the firing pin: The "tricks" are to have the bolt on a SOLID well braced bench, on a block that has a hole in it that will pass the pin. Next, use a "starter pin punch". This is just a standard punch that's been cut off to a working length of about 1/2" or so. The reason pins fail to move is, the part is allowed to bounce and move around, and the long punch flexes and bends. All this dissipates the force of the blows, and all that happens is the pin gets deformed, locking it tightly in the hole. Get a HARDwood block, drill a hole in it big enough that the retaining pin will clear it. It's not unusual to just forget that the pin has to have a clearance hole to pass it or the pin has no way come out. NO amount of hammering can get a pin out when the pin is resting on the bench block. MAKE SURE the block has a clearance hole, and the bolt pin is over it. Put the block on a FIRM bench or concrete floor. Cut one of your damaged punches off so the working end is about 1/2" to 3/4" long. Use a medium sized hammer. Give the pin firm blows, without hammering it like a nail. Make sure the pin stays over the clearance hole, and the bolt doesn't bounce or move. Once the pin starts out, switch to a longer punch. Some watch-outs: If this is a used gun, it's possible someone put the pin in upside down or in from the top of the bolt. The pin has splines on the bottom end which serve to hold the pin in place. If the pin is put in upside down, the splines may be locking it in. I have seen pins put in from the top of the bolt by people who didn't know better. In all probability, the pin is deformed by all the hammering, so use the above techniques. Next the butt pad: The butt pad on the synthetics has a reduced "lip" that fits inside the stock slightly. To remove, use a smooth shafted Phillips screwdriver. Coat the shaft with soap to lubricate it, and push it into the holes at the top and bottom of the pad. Unscrew each screw, alternating on each until the pad will pull off. Don't unscrew the screws to the point that they come out of the pad, since this expands the holes and leaves a bigger hole. While pulling the pad outward, just unscrew one screw a turn or so, then the other until the pad comes off. As the screws are turned, and the pad is pulled outward, it will move out until the screws release from the stock. Last the "rattling" sound. This is the Remington synthetic stock "Gotcha". At the factory, Remington assembles the synthetic stock with a long bolt, a formed large washer, and a lock washer. To hold all this together during assembly, Remington also puts a small "Star" washer on the end of the screw to retain everything. Often this small "Star" washer will slide up and down the stock bolt, making a rattling sound. The "Fix" is to remove the washer and throw it away, or better, lay it on a firm surface, and use a ball peen hammer to lightly tap the center of the washer to slightly close the "teeth" in the center. This will make the washer a tighter fit on the stock bolt and will prevent the rattle. When reassembling the stock bolt and washers, BE SURE to put them on the bolt in the right order, and with the large, formed washer facing the right way. In order to do this, make a note of the order, and the way the large washer is facing when you disassemble it.

June 17, 2005, 10:26 AM	#3
dswindle Member Join Date: January 11, 2005 Posts: 55	Dfariswheel, Thank you very much for your response. Sorry I have been so late thanking you, but I just got back into town last night from a business trip. I'll try to take your sage advice this weekend. I really appreciate your help.