The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Skunkworks > The Smithy

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old July 1, 2008, 09:45 PM   #1
WindLaker
Junior Member
 
Join Date: July 1, 2008
Location: Wiscomsin
Posts: 4
Recoil Pad Question/problem

I'm installing a "Decellerator" recoil pad on my deer rifle. I'm not using a jig.

I used a disk sander to get the rough shape. Switched to a sanding block w/ 150 sandpaper for fine-tuning. I'm now using a vibrating sander to finish it off.

My problem is this. The base of the recoil pad is a perfect fit, perfectly smooth. The softer part is kind of "mushroomed" out...it has a larger diameter than the base.

Whazzup with this?

Thanks in advance for your help.

WindLaker
WindLaker is offline  
Old July 2, 2008, 12:13 AM   #2
Scorch
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 13, 2006
Location: Washington state
Posts: 15,247
Since the softer rubber moves when you try to cut it and the hard rubber backing plate actually cuts, this is entirely normal. Use packing tape to protect the stock of the gun (it is hard to cut and will show scuffs if you get too close with the sandpaper). Use 60 to 100 grit until the pad is cut down to the size you want it to be, then finish sand the backing plate with 150 grit to remove marks.
__________________
Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs.
But what do I know?
Summit Arms Services
Scorch is offline  
Old July 2, 2008, 10:41 AM   #3
LHB1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: March 25, 2005
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,545
Windlaker,
Saw a tip once about putting a recoil pad in the freezer to stiffen it before sanding it to fit. Supposed to reduce the "mushrooming" effect. Never tried that trick myself. I use 8" file for the final sanding of soft pad sides.
__________________
Good shooting and be safe.
LB
LHB1 is offline  
Old July 2, 2008, 05:38 PM   #4
VaFisher
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 24, 2006
Posts: 596
The freezer works wonders, give it a try during the final finishing part.
VaFisher is offline  
Old July 2, 2008, 05:39 PM   #5
rantingredneck
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 12, 2007
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 4,728
I use a 1" belt sander. Never heard the freezer trick. may try that on the next one I do.
rantingredneck is offline  
Old July 2, 2008, 09:09 PM   #6
WindLaker
Junior Member
 
Join Date: July 1, 2008
Location: Wiscomsin
Posts: 4
The gun in in the freezer tonight. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

Thanks,

WindLaker
WindLaker is offline  
Old July 3, 2008, 04:35 PM   #7
VaFisher
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 24, 2006
Posts: 596
Put the pad in the freezer not the gun.
VaFisher is offline  
Old July 5, 2008, 12:39 PM   #8
WindLaker
Junior Member
 
Join Date: July 1, 2008
Location: Wiscomsin
Posts: 4
Did the freezer thing, same result. The soft part did not harden up hard enough to sand properly. I did sand the minute it came out of the freezer.

I tried the Dremel tool...very difficult to get a smooth, even finish. Since the freezer didn't work, I think I'm forced back to the Dremel.

I'm open to any other ideas.

Thanks,

WindLaker
WindLaker is offline  
Old July 6, 2008, 09:52 PM   #9
saands
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 14, 1999
Posts: 1,573
I JUST did one of these myself about a week ago and I found that a good and sharp file worked well to cut the softer rubber ... forget about using an orbital sander as it doesn't have sufficient stroke to actually get the softer material to cut ... it just wiggles it around while it cuts the harder materials around it . I found that fresh sandpaper on a block also worked, but the file really got it done for me.

Saands
saands is offline  
Old July 8, 2008, 03:54 PM   #10
Phlip
Member
 
Join Date: March 16, 2006
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 36
I have installed some regular Pachmeyr pads on my rifles. I put a couple layers of masking tape on the stock to protect it and I use a Dremmel with a grinding barrel on it. I have not tried this on a soft recoil pad.
Phlip is offline  
Old July 8, 2008, 05:16 PM   #11
Slopemeno
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 19, 2007
Posts: 2,663
I've done a couple of hundred pads. The real key? Buy the jig from Brownells, and set it op on your disc sander. Use a 60 grit pad, which will cut the soft pad materials with ease (not to mention my knuckles).

It's one of those jobs that sticks out like a sore thumb if you mess up. Take your time.
Slopemeno is offline  
Old July 9, 2008, 03:09 PM   #12
WindLaker
Junior Member
 
Join Date: July 1, 2008
Location: Wiscomsin
Posts: 4
Saands,

Went the file route...it's working pretty good. Thanks.

What I've done is take off the high spots with the Dremel, then file, then a sanding block. I'm about 90% done.

I never thought it would be this much work. It's looking good, though.

WindLaker
WindLaker is offline  
Old July 9, 2008, 03:28 PM   #13
saands
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 14, 1999
Posts: 1,573
Glad to be of some help ... I too was AMAZED at how much work was required to get it done right ... I can see how the right tool would make short work of the job, though.

Saands
saands is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2021 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent: thefiringline.com
Page generated in 0.07758 seconds with 10 queries