Reloading Questions?

[cbhester]

I am looking to get into reloading after my recent purchase of a 220 swift. Ammunition is crazy high, and not alot cheaper to reload. I just have a few questions..... Brass: I'm sure there is better and worse brass, or is there? Does it matter what brand of brass you buy? Are some better than others like everything else? Bullets: When looking around at bullets, I have noticed that they are listed by caliber such as ".22". So can you buy any .22 caliber bullet and use it with a 220 swift? Because the website I was previously looking on "midwayusa" did not specify from what I could tell.

Now, when purchasing a reloading kit, what do I need to be sure it includes? I just want everything I need in order to safely and accuratly reload good quality rounds. I don't know much about this yet as you can probably tell so I just need some pointers. I do know that I will need dyes for each type of ammo that I plan to reload, but other than that, what all do I need to be sure and have as far as actually loading components go?

Thanks in advance!

P.S. It may be beneficial to know that I am loading for the best balance between speed and accuracy, mainly target shooting, with some ground hog, crow, buzzard, cyote, etc. Thanks again.

[colospgsAVID]

I would buy a reloading manual first. Maybe you local public library has one you can borrow. Read up on all of the particulars and see what items you will need. This will give you a better idea of what your up against and whether it is for you. The ABC's of Reloading is pretty good I hear. I like my Lyman manual.

[mongoose33]

You *can* save money reloading, significant money.

But there are up-front costs in equipment, and to get the best savings you have to buy components in bulk.

[GeauxTide]

Spend the time reading the New Reloaders thread above. It is excellent.

[jmortimer]

New reloaders need to get a manual – most recommend Lymans, I would also recommend Modern Reloading by Richard Lee especially if you end up using Lee Precision equipment. All brands work and are good. If you want a progressive and have the $$$ get a Dillion (sold direct by Dillion) or Hornady Lock-N-Load. If you want to reload shotshells then get a MEC if you have the $$$ or a Lee Load All for about $ 40.00. For most people the best place to start is with the Lee Classic Cast Single Stage or the Lee Classic Turret Press. Both are worth every penny. Go to Midway USA and research every piece of equipment you are considering by reading customer reviews/comments. You will quickly see if the particular piece of equipment you are considering is worthwhile by reading actual owner reviews not speculation or opinion. You will see that both the Lee presses are “keepers” and, again, worth every penny. I would recommend the Lee Classic Turret Kit from Kempfs – here https://kempfgunshop.com//index.php?...mart&Itemid=41
I use it as a glorified “single stage” press and deactivate the “auto index” which normally moves the turret around with each stroke. The beauty is that you have a turret pre-set with all the dies for each caliber and you just swap out the turrets and go. Here are videos from Lee Precision showing the turret press in action – Here http://www.leeprecision.com/html/HelpVideos/video.html
I use powder dippers which I like because you can put away your scale once you are absolutely sure what powder you are using. You only have to weigh your first load and then you are done with the scale. I also like to prime by hand and use the Lee Auto Prime hand-held primer. Many, many reloaders like to prime by hand. Everyone develops their own system. Most every person who reloads is generous with sharing their knowledge. You will never regret reloading and will be rewarded greatly for your interest.

[CarterMccoy]

You can really make great loads and have fun being a great shot by loading your own.
Dont get caught up in the anxiety of learning everything at once.
This is a good site for questions, but try not to use it for every litle question (even though you could).
I didnt like the kits when I did an analysis of the indicidual components I could get for the same money.
I got a forster press which is really easy to use - definitely get a single stage press to start out with. You do one operation at a time, and get proficent at each of them. Progresive presses are great, but you want ot be experienced in my opinion beofree you buy one.

RCBS has videos of each step in the loading process, in order. View those, and learn each step one at a time.

The biggest piece of advice I can give you is to do your reloading when that is ALL your going to be doing. Dont take phone calls, or try to do anything else when you sit down at the bench - you can make a mistake that could be dangerous. Concentrate on the loading, and nothing else.
Always use ONE TYPE OF POWDER AT A TIME - NEVER BREAK THIS RULE. You could blow up your gun or have to pull bulletts on a bunch of laoded rounds to undo a mistake.
And enjoy it, you'll love it AND sve TONS of money. My 25-06 ammo is very expensive, I could NEVER afford to do all the shooting I do with factory ammo - NO WAY.

[cbhester]

I appreciate all the good advice. I have looked around and will continue looking around to be sure on what I want prior to buying anything. I am starting to get a pretty good idea of what needs to be done and what I need to do it, so.... when I have everything I need and am ready to get started, I need some advice on what kind of ammunition to use.

Powder: I know absalutly nothing about buying powder and making sure I get what I need. I am looking for speed as I will be reloading mostly 220 Swift, but I don't want too much speed as to burn the gun up. Is there a manual anyone can recommend that references these types of things?

Bullets: I am confused about which to buy. I noticed that on midway usa webstie, that the bullets are listed in .22 caliber size .224. Does this mean that I can use any of the .22 caliber bullets? I have never seen a swift any lower than 40 grain but you can buy much lower grain .22 caliber bullets than that. Will these not work, or would it just be silly to use this light of a grain?

I know this is a lot of questions at once, but I'm just trying to get started. I will hopefully be able to get enough from the upcoming posts to leave you guys alone for a while, haha. Thanks in advance!

[1chig]

what you need to do is buy yourself a reloading manuel.Im not saying which on because there are several to choose from that are great. Might even get a couple to refference back and forth. With a reloading manuel it will have the 220 swift listed with bullet sizes and all kinds of powder to use. For my swift i use imr 4064 with no problems and it shoots very well but you decide on which you would prefer. Just remember no destractions when you are loading and do not start with max loads, WORK YOUR WAY UP and find which works for your gun. Reloading is great and when you find that sweet spot for your rifle its even better. Good luck and happy shooting

[James R. Burke]

Yup they are correct. A good manual to start is a must have, the more the better. I always try to get one for the bullet make I will be using. There are a few in gerneral that are real good. I believe Lyman has a good one out. I am sure you will get alot of feedback on this. But do get the manual first and read it good a few times, it will really help you out. Good luck, and keep it safe!

[johnjohn]

All the powder mfg. put out free manuals for the asking. But get a Lyman too because there is a lot of good info in there besides loads.

[reloader28]

One thing most people dont think about is you-tube. I've seen most every reloading video on there to try and pick up tips and stuff I dont know.
There are very good vids on there and there are some that dont have any business being on there.
Watch Ammosmith. He is very good. He's the best that comes to mind and he knows what he's doing. He shows basics and advanced and the tools used.
Others are very good too, but some are a complete waste of time and energy.You have to wonder what some people are thinking.
Take a couple nights and watch a bunch of them and you can get a pretty good idea of what you want and need to do.
Every loading book has info in it too, but if you're like me, it's easier to see it happening.

[SKULLANDCROSSBONES65]

G'day, +1 for the manual first. It will teach the basics and the safety.

Bullets: I am confused about which to buy. I noticed that on midway usa webstie, that the bullets are listed in .22 caliber size .224. Does this mean that I can use any of the .22 caliber bullets? I have never seen a swift any lower than 40 grain but you can buy much lower grain .22 caliber bullets than that. Will these not work, or would it just be silly to use this light of a grain?

Most of what I have read is specifically about SIERRA projectiles but will be relevant to most jacketed available. SIERRA has .223 and .224 projectiles. Don't use their light walled "hornet" projectiles at the higher .220 velocities.
Depending on your barrel twist as to what might suit your gun.
A good rule of thumb is, Faster twist = heavier projectile = flatter trajectory.

The .220 Swift is a .224 and SIERRA list 14 projectile loads for this cartridge.
Here is a little bit from the SIERRA manual.

Introduced by Winchester in 1935, the 220 Swift was first chambered in the Model 54 bolt-action rifle. Intended as a long-range varmint round, the Swift soon developed a loyal following who praised it for everything from ground squirrels to grizzly bears. It also attracted an equally vocal group of detractors who damned it at every turn. As usual in such debates, the truth lies somewhere in the middle. Some early gun writers, displaying more enthusiasm than common sense, used the Swift on a wide variety of big game. Small caliber, high-velocity cartridges frequently give spectacular kills on large game. They also result in some equally spectacular failures. This simple fact set the stage for many caustic debates on the Swift's merits. As a long-range varmint cartridge, the Swift remains unmatched by any 22 caliber factory round. In fact, its performance can be equaled or exceeded by only a handful of wildcats. With this performance comes the critics most frequently heard complaint-short barrel life. Frankly, the Swift is harder on barrels than any other factory-loaded 22 centerfire. With velocities in excess of 4000 fps on tap, the 220 gives the shooter more of everything-more explosive bullet performance, more noise, more range, and more throat erosion. Some sources advocate downloading the Swift to prolong barrel life, but this seems somewhat counterproductive. The very reason for using a Swift is to take advantage of the cartridge's potent performance. Proper cleaning technique and a bit of discretion will go a long way in extending the accuracy of a Swift barrel. Avoid firing long strings that excessively heat the barrel. Set and follow a regular cleaning regimen and always use a bore guide. By not letting fouling accumulate in the first place, a good Swift should give years of faithful and accurate service. Among knowledgeable varminters, the Swift has always been held in respect. In the last few years, there has been a resurgence of interest in this fine varmint round. At this writing, Remington has added the Swift to the list of standard chamberings in their vaunted 40x target rifle.