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September 5, 2014, 02:42 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: August 28, 2014
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reloading 5.56 need help
Wanted to start reloading 5.56. Tried to press in CCI 450 magnium primers, but they want fit. There is a sleve in the primer pocket. Can it be removed or do I need to fine brass without this sleve in it.
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September 5, 2014, 03:00 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: April 13, 2007
Posts: 770
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here is some info...
http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...+primer+crimps i tried swaging with a ch4d die, and ended up cutting the crimps with a crimp remover..i also ended up using a lee universal decap die as i found it easier than the added stress on my sizing dies... but there is more than one option.. Last edited by surveyor; September 5, 2014 at 03:06 PM. |
September 5, 2014, 04:00 PM | #3 |
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Location: LA (Greater Los Angeles Area)
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Quickest way is to get a 1/2" countersink drill bit, 82 or 90 degrees it does not matter. One second per case on the drill bit will remove the military crimp forever.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=550166 I use the Lee decapper to remove primers.
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September 5, 2014, 04:11 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: October 16, 2002
Location: Franklin County Missouri
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OP may be seeing the remains of a primer that was not totally removed. I have punched out the base of a primer, leaving the sides still stuck inside the primer pocket.
You can dig it out or chalk it up to bad luck and discard the case. 5.56 is plentiful enough. Throw it into the scrap bucket. 7mm SAUM, I would be digging it out.
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September 5, 2014, 04:22 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: March 4, 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 21,061
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Since military primers are crimped in, if he did, indeed, break out the bottom of the primer cup only, countersinking may be his only option to try to get the rest loose. But I think it more likely this is U.S. brass which uses the ring crimp and what he thinks is a sleeve is just the perimeter of the crimp. In that instance it simply needs to be removed by any of the various methods already mentioned.
Below, on the left, is the U.S. style ring crimp. On the right is Greek HXP with a three point staked crimp for comparison. You can see how the U.S. style might be mistaken for the end of a sleeve.
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September 5, 2014, 08:40 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: July 1, 2013
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all I do is take an electric drill with a fat phillips heads and drill it out for abot 2 seconds, works great and its free and easy and fast. im sure others could take issue with this method, but has worked for me thousands of times over
trying to show the progression, I just tap the power o the drill til gets up to speed and take it off, literally like 1 second tops. never had one not go bang
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September 5, 2014, 08:42 PM | #7 |
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thanks for the pic unclenick, I have always wondered what the 3-point thing was, I assumed it was shot out of a machinegun or something. I really had no idea it was manufactured that way
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September 5, 2014, 08:52 PM | #8 |
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I used to use the philips head bit and it does work.
But once I tried the countersink, I think it does a better and more consistent job. It also makes the primers go right in with very smooth feel. Here is what my ideal one looks like.
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September 5, 2014, 09:06 PM | #9 |
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I always figured less is more. but if it doesn't give you any problems, guess its all good
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September 6, 2014, 04:04 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: August 28, 2014
Posts: 8
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5.56 crimp
Thanks to everyones response. I did not know this was just a crimp.
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