Ramp job on a Spfld .45

VIEJO · April 20, 2001, 07:50 AM

Can one of you 1911 smiths give me bit of advice please? I have a Springfield "loaded" 1911 in the LW or aluminum frame model. I want to do a little polishing of the feed ramp in the frame and therein lies my question. The land or flat transition area between the frame ramp and the barrel ramp is about .O60-.070" wide. I know I have to go into that aluminum ramp very gently with the polishing media but should I radius the top of the ramp so there is a smoother jump from the magazine into the chamber mouth? I had a pre '70 National Match by Colt that was custom shop throated and there was almost one smooth surface between frame and barrel. The frame ramp shined like a mirror. I also owned two Combat Commanders which were throated and polished by the late great Russ Carniak and they both showed only a hairline transition between the two parts.

Any suggestions? Would I be better off just sending this piece back to the factory and telling them to make it feed hollow points consistently?

You help here is most welcome and appreciated.

Viejo

George Stringer · April 21, 2001, 06:53 AM

Viejo, there should be a 1/32" "gap" between the bottom of the chamber lip and the top of the feed ramp. Unless the ramp is rough or uneven I wouldn't attempt polishing it to achieve this. This is a function of barrel fit rather than ramp fit. To smooth the ramp use a dowel rod that fits the contour nicely. Start with 400 grit paper and use progressively finer grits until you achieve the finish you want. You have to be a little extra careful with aluminum. It's very easy to remove too much too quickly or to change the angle of the ramp. Also once you remove the anodizing the ramp will be softer and more prone to abuse from bullet noses. George

VIEJO · April 21, 2001, 08:36 AM

Thank you, George. I had forgotten about the anodized coating being harder than the aluminum itself. I believe that I will just leave well enough alone given the fact that the gap between the frame and barrel is supposed to be there.
I only have about 300 rounds thru this pistol, so I'll put another 3-400 thru it before I worry about feeding reliability with HPs. These "loaded" models are supposed to feed anything out of the box but mine doesn't care for HPs from any of 5 different brands of mags.
I also changed to an 18-1/2 lb Wolff recoil spring after taking the factory spring to work and checking the load. It weighed in at only a hair over 15 lbs.
Thanks again for your advice.

Viejo

April 20, 2001, 07:50 AM	#1
VIEJO Senior Member Join Date: March 10, 2001 Location: MI Posts: 144	Can one of you 1911 smiths give me bit of advice please? I have a Springfield "loaded" 1911 in the LW or aluminum frame model. I want to do a little polishing of the feed ramp in the frame and therein lies my question. The land or flat transition area between the frame ramp and the barrel ramp is about .O60-.070" wide. I know I have to go into that aluminum ramp very gently with the polishing media but should I radius the top of the ramp so there is a smoother jump from the magazine into the chamber mouth? I had a pre '70 National Match by Colt that was custom shop throated and there was almost one smooth surface between frame and barrel. The frame ramp shined like a mirror. I also owned two Combat Commanders which were throated and polished by the late great Russ Carniak and they both showed only a hairline transition between the two parts. Any suggestions? Would I be better off just sending this piece back to the factory and telling them to make it feed hollow points consistently? You help here is most welcome and appreciated. Viejo __________________ NRA and JPFO member. Constitutional fanatic. "After we have arranged for our survival, we can discuss sociology." -Jeff Cooper

April 21, 2001, 06:53 AM	#2
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Viejo, there should be a 1/32" "gap" between the bottom of the chamber lip and the top of the feed ramp. Unless the ramp is rough or uneven I wouldn't attempt polishing it to achieve this. This is a function of barrel fit rather than ramp fit. To smooth the ramp use a dowel rod that fits the contour nicely. Start with 400 grit paper and use progressively finer grits until you achieve the finish you want. You have to be a little extra careful with aluminum. It's very easy to remove too much too quickly or to change the angle of the ramp. Also once you remove the anodizing the ramp will be softer and more prone to abuse from bullet noses. George

April 21, 2001, 08:36 AM	#3
VIEJO Senior Member Join Date: March 10, 2001 Location: MI Posts: 144	Thank you, George. I had forgotten about the anodized coating being harder than the aluminum itself. I believe that I will just leave well enough alone given the fact that the gap between the frame and barrel is supposed to be there. I only have about 300 rounds thru this pistol, so I'll put another 3-400 thru it before I worry about feeding reliability with HPs. These "loaded" models are supposed to feed anything out of the box but mine doesn't care for HPs from any of 5 different brands of mags. I also changed to an 18-1/2 lb Wolff recoil spring after taking the factory spring to work and checking the load. It weighed in at only a hair over 15 lbs. Thanks again for your advice. Viejo