January 22, 2006, 02:48 PM | #1 |
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Which case lube?
I've been using RCBS case lube on a roll pad for resizing. Now I'm thinking maybe the spray-on stuff would be easier.
So what are the pros & cons? Do you have to clean the spray type off before loading? |
January 22, 2006, 06:24 PM | #2 |
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I spray on Hornady One Shot and never clean it off after resizing. Makes things go smoother for sure. I do, however, find it works a bit worse than a good CLP like FP-10 for really tight jobs (like full sizing hot 7mmSTW brass).
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January 22, 2006, 06:39 PM | #3 |
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I have used RCBS lube on a pad for many years. I finally tried some of Hornady one shot.. I am a convert. I used to hate gettting all the grease all over my hands and handling the greasy cases. It works fine, but a little messy. The one shot has always worked and is not messy to apply or handle. Of course the RCBS lube is cheaper because a little goes so far, but I am willing to pay the price for cleanleness and convenience. Personally, I wipe all my cases afer finishing, just to get ANY lube off that might increase the thrust to the bolt face, besides it only takes a second or two.
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January 22, 2006, 06:45 PM | #4 |
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Im old fashioned, use RCBS
WildeveryonehasafavoriteAlaska |
January 22, 2006, 10:56 PM | #5 |
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Case Lube
One small word from experience. Don't buy more than one can of Hornady One Shot at a time. There seems to be a problem with the valves and they leak pressure over time. Then you are left with a can of lube and no way to use it. I now buy the "Pump" type of case lube products.
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January 23, 2006, 08:48 AM | #6 |
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Use a Nail
Not recommending this of course, but if the pressure leaks out of a spray can I've heard that some people take a nail or drill to punch a couple of holes to drain the product into a pump spray spray or dropper type container. The holes should be above the liquid level just in case there is some residual pressure you won't get a jet of liquid in your face or elsewhere. Observe appropriate safety precautions, face shield, no open flames (propellants and contents are often flammable).
Again, not suggesting that you do this......... |
January 23, 2006, 09:15 AM | #7 |
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One of the old style beer can opener is easier.
Do you have to spray inside the necks also? |
January 23, 2006, 09:32 AM | #8 |
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Swede, inside the case neck, yes, if you are running a bell through it. Makes it really slick and reduces stretching as you're pulling it out. I like Hornady One Shot real well. When I do have to FLS, I'll put up to 50 cases bottom up in a platic cartridge box and carefully turn then over into a box top from a ream of paper with a paper towel or sheet of paper (overspray will get nasty after awhile so you can change out the 'litter' under the brass). Now, you got 50 cases, evenly spaced, mouth up. Spray downward at a 45 degree angle across all of them, carefully turn the box 180, and spray again - not too much. Gets the inside of the case mouths just enough. As they come out of the sizer, a simple wipe and you're done. Good stuff. Some complain about cost, but if you NS most of the time, you really don't use that much of it. I've also used it for reforming brass to another size/shape. sundog
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January 23, 2006, 09:44 AM | #9 |
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Whick case lube?
Whick case lube?
I have tried many case lubes, over the last 35 years. The one I use is Hornady's UNIQUE GREASE. It's a wax that requires you to handle each case. It works for me... |
January 23, 2006, 10:29 AM | #10 |
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I use Imperial sizing die wax. It's the best extant.
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January 23, 2006, 01:46 PM | #11 |
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RCBS user but considering
Edward429451--I'm a confirmed RCBS Case Lube 2 user (I tumble the cases again to remove lube after sizing--works slick) but I keep hearing about this mysterious Imperial Sizing Die Wax. The people who use it seem to really like it. Never seen it myself.
What is it, how does it work, is it expensive, need you clean it off afterwards, does it go on fast, etc, etc. I like my RCBS system but am always willing to consider upgrading, if upgrading it be.
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January 23, 2006, 02:30 PM | #12 |
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One shot is expensive, but in a progressive there is no substitute.
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January 23, 2006, 03:24 PM | #13 |
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Imperial sizing die wax is best described as oily wax. It comes in a little round tin (kind of like a snuff container) and costs about six bucks per tin. A little goes a long way and most people I hear of have been using it for years and still on their first or sometimes second tin of it. Personally, I've been using it for ~10 yrs and am on my third tin of it so maybe I use a lot of it?
At any rate, it's good stuff and I've never stuck a case with it. It's applied with your fingers. Every 4 or 5 cases I get a small dab on my thumb & first two fingers and just roll the case around in my fingers and size. It does need to be removed before loading. I usually use a clean rag but sometimes just pop the cases into the tumbler to remove it and give it a final polishing. Imperial is not used to lube case necks. I don't use anything else (except anhydrous lanolin for swaging). I highly reccommend it. |
January 23, 2006, 04:20 PM | #14 |
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Imperial wax
Edward429451--Thx for the explanation! I'll consider it next time I need case lube.
For the record, I've never stuck a case using RCBS lube.
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January 23, 2006, 07:35 PM | #15 |
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Another vote for Imperial, I started using it for forming cases, but use it now
for everything |
January 23, 2006, 08:38 PM | #16 |
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Case lube
Been using 140 wt. gear oil (GL1) for about 40 years on a pad for my rifle cases. Got a pint or so at the time. still using out of it.
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January 28, 2006, 11:36 AM | #17 |
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If you don't use Imperial inside the neck what do you use?
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January 28, 2006, 07:12 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
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January 28, 2006, 08:49 PM | #19 |
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I used the roll pad for years, very slow but effective. Went to the spray (Hornady One shot and Dillon) and now use Imperial Sizing Wax. The Imperial is the quickest and slickest, just touch the wax with your thumb and foefinger about every five rounds or so, and just picking up the brass and putting it into the press gets enough on it to size. I do roll it some as I'm taking it from the bag to the press. I also drag a neck occasionaly in the wax to keep the expander lubed. I've lubed several thousand cases with this tin, and it hardly looks like its been used at all.
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January 28, 2006, 08:54 PM | #20 |
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RCBS Case Slick spray lube
I too used to use the pad with the original bonanza case lube. It worked well for many years. I tried imperial, but wasn't satisfied with gunked up fingers, also it became a chore of loading more than 20 or so at atime.
I recently tried a pump bottle of the RCBS case slick. It's just plain the easiest to use of any I've tried. Especially now that I have a dillon 650 with the case feeder. Just toss a bunch of cases in a coffee can, spray some in and toss 'em around, spray some more and dump them in the case feeder. I was concerned with whether it could kill either the primer or the powder charge, since I was getting some INSIDE the necks. I called RCBS and asked a nice lady about it. She reasured me it was completely inert as concerning powder OR primers. They had tested it six ways to sunday, it didn't kill either of them. I tumble the finished rounds for 5-10 minutes to remove the lube.
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