Trim pistol brass

Rodger Peterson · January 17, 2005, 10:32 PM

Do most people trim their pistol brass? I have heard it is a waste of time.
When I shoot 357 mag the case's seem to grow, but 45 colt seems not too.
I am thinking 357 yes, 45 skip this process.

41special · January 17, 2005, 10:42 PM

Well technically you don't have to trim them unless their so long they won't chamber, but increased case length can effect the loads your using, so I do it anyway.

I say it's all personal preference

________________________

An old west lawman once said when asked why he carried a .45, "because they don't make a .46"

GLK · January 17, 2005, 10:55 PM

I load for 38/357, 41mag, 44spl/mag, 40S&W/10MM 45ACP/Colt. I have never once trimmed or needed to trim straight walled handgun brass. Just my experience. I will add that I don't shoot in any structured competition, it might make a difference in that venue.

Austin Charles · January 18, 2005, 08:27 AM

I have never trimmed a pistol case. To me it is a waste of time.

I will loose them before I ever come close to needing to trim them.

Besides that, I would think that 9/10 they would split before they ever needed trimmed.

Lycanthrope · January 18, 2005, 08:48 AM

I haven't trimmed the last 20,000 or so. No problems, yet.

rbwillnj · January 18, 2005, 09:27 AM

Depends on what you are trying to accomplish, and how good a shot you are. For most shooters, they will never have to trim pistol brass, because its very rare that a case will exceed the maximum. I shot some cases for years and years and they never exceeded the maximum length.

But, if your trying to get that 1 1/4" group down to 1", or eliminate that one flyer from a one hole group, and if your shooting is that good that that kind of accuracy will make a difference, than you should trim your pistol brass. Otherwise, its just a royal pain in the ..... But that's what I do now.

MADISON · January 18, 2005, 09:44 AM

As long as the round chambers I do NOT trim them.
Another reason to trim is that most people Roll Crimp and trimming is necessary for consistancy in crimping. I get around that by Taper Crimping.

steveno · January 18, 2005, 10:55 AM

I have never trimmed a pistol case

aussie bob · January 19, 2005, 06:07 AM

G'day,

I am like the others as I do not trim most revolver brass but I do with semi automatics.

If you are crimping revolver brass then the length does not matter but the variation between cases does. If you are roll crimping the amount of roll will be a function of the length of the case. If you set the crimp for a long case then a short case will not have the same amount of crimp. This means there will be a change of pressure when the round is shot and this will change the point of impact (POI). How much will depend on the variation.

On the otherhand the head spacing for a rimless case used in a semi automatic is set by the case length. If your cases are short you could finish up with too much headspace with the possibility of a separation. As the rimless is taper crimped rather than the roll crimp in the case of the revolver, small variation will not affect the pressure to the same extent as it would with the revolver.

If you are field shooting or not crimping as is the case with many target revolver loads then case variation will not be super critical. In fact it may not even be evident without a chrony.

So for me. Rimless - trim to correct and even length.
Revolver - whatever suits unless you are using a crimp.

Cheers for down under
Aussie Bob

redrooster2 · January 20, 2005, 01:27 AM

I do an initial trim on brass that is going to be rolled crimped to get them all to the same length for a more consistent crimp.

Quantrill · January 20, 2005, 09:43 AM

I have not ever trimmed pistol brass but would if someone could show me it improved MY accuracy. I do trim rifle brass, clean primer pockets and turn the necks for thickness and concentricity. Quantrill

Rmouleart · January 20, 2005, 11:33 AM

I always make my cases measure the same OAL before reloading,never cut Conner's when reloading. I also chamfer and debur,before resizing, everything has to be perfect when I reload, I use a single stage RCBS RockChucker, everything is done in single stages, seating and crimping,Dump 98%hand trickle the last 2% every load, always use a lee factory crimp for uniformity. That is the key word(uniformity)Good to go, In doing so I have developedn some very accurate rounds for my revolvers and rifles. Aim small hit small. RAMbo.

30Cal · January 20, 2005, 02:10 PM

Never trimmed a single piece of pistol brass.

Ty

rbwillnj · January 20, 2005, 03:01 PM

The first time I set up a Ransom Rest and tested my stardard reload in my Kimber, I got a 2 1/2" group at 25 yards. Then I tried different powders, different powder weights, different bullets, sorted brass by head stamp, and trimmed all the brass to the same lenght. I ended up using the same bullet as my original standard, the same powder, and the same charge, but I got it down to 1" groups. The only difference from what I started with was trimmed brass, and using just one brand of brass. That was good enough for me, I'm not going back. I only trim once to get them all the same.

Archie · January 20, 2005, 09:31 PM

For target grade ammo (and maybe for full house stuff in 357 or 44 Magnum) I like to have all the lengths the same so all the crimps are the same.

For my 38 Special PPC ammo, I have a big pile of .38 Special cases, already sorted by headstamp. I take a vernier, set it at a certain point and use it as a 'go - no go' guage. This gives me a pile of (fairly) uniform brass and no physical trimming.

And truthfully, it may be simply self-delusion.

January 17, 2005, 10:32 PM	#1
Rodger Peterson Member Join Date: December 18, 2004 Location: Nevada Posts: 93	Trim pistol brass Do most people trim their pistol brass? I have heard it is a waste of time. When I shoot 357 mag the case's seem to grow, but 45 colt seems not too. I am thinking 357 yes, 45 skip this process.

January 17, 2005, 10:42 PM	#2
41special Senior Member Join Date: January 7, 2005 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 263	Well technically you don't have to trim them unless their so long they won't chamber, but increased case length can effect the loads your using, so I do it anyway. I say it's all personal preference ________________________ An old west lawman once said when asked why he carried a .45, "because they don't make a .46" Last edited by 41special; January 18, 2005 at 05:00 AM.

January 18, 2005, 09:44 AM	#7
MADISON Senior Member Join Date: January 1, 2000 Location: Roanoke, Virginia Posts: 2,678	to Trim pistol brass? As long as the round chambers I do NOT trim them. Another reason to trim is that most people Roll Crimp and trimming is necessary for consistancy in crimping. I get around that by Taper Crimping.

January 20, 2005, 09:31 PM	#15
Archie Senior Member Join Date: May 26, 2000 Location: Hastings, Nebrasksa - the Hear Posts: 2,209	I like rbwillnj's idea. For target grade ammo (and maybe for full house stuff in 357 or 44 Magnum) I like to have all the lengths the same so all the crimps are the same. For my 38 Special PPC ammo, I have a big pile of .38 Special cases, already sorted by headstamp. I take a vernier, set it at a certain point and use it as a 'go - no go' guage. This gives me a pile of (fairly) uniform brass and no physical trimming. And truthfully, it may be simply self-delusion. __________________ There ain't no free lunch, except Jesus. Archie Check out updated journal at http://oldmanmontgomery.wordpress.com/

January 17, 2005, 10:55 PM	#3
GLK Senior Member Join Date: June 22, 2000 Location: Brandon FL USA Posts: 527	I load for 38/357, 41mag, 44spl/mag, 40S&W/10MM 45ACP/Colt. I have never once trimmed or needed to trim straight walled handgun brass. Just my experience. I will add that I don't shoot in any structured competition, it might make a difference in that venue.

January 18, 2005, 08:27 AM	#4
Austin Charles Member Join Date: December 16, 2004 Posts: 32	I have never trimmed a pistol case. To me it is a waste of time. I will loose them before I ever come close to needing to trim them. Besides that, I would think that 9/10 they would split before they ever needed trimmed.

January 18, 2005, 08:48 AM	#5
Lycanthrope Senior Member Join Date: October 1, 2001 Location: PA Posts: 1,752	I haven't trimmed the last 20,000 or so. No problems, yet.

January 18, 2005, 09:27 AM	#6
rbwillnj Member Join Date: December 14, 2004 Location: Northwest NJ Posts: 38	Depends on what you are trying to accomplish, and how good a shot you are. For most shooters, they will never have to trim pistol brass, because its very rare that a case will exceed the maximum. I shot some cases for years and years and they never exceeded the maximum length. But, if your trying to get that 1 1/4" group down to 1", or eliminate that one flyer from a one hole group, and if your shooting is that good that that kind of accuracy will make a difference, than you should trim your pistol brass. Otherwise, its just a royal pain in the ..... But that's what I do now.

January 18, 2005, 10:55 AM	#8
steveno Senior Member Join Date: June 18, 2004 Location: Minden , Nebraska Posts: 1,407	I have never trimmed a pistol case

January 19, 2005, 06:07 AM	#9
aussie bob Member Join Date: December 7, 2004 Location: Australia Posts: 36	G'day, I am like the others as I do not trim most revolver brass but I do with semi automatics. If you are crimping revolver brass then the length does not matter but the variation between cases does. If you are roll crimping the amount of roll will be a function of the length of the case. If you set the crimp for a long case then a short case will not have the same amount of crimp. This means there will be a change of pressure when the round is shot and this will change the point of impact (POI). How much will depend on the variation. On the otherhand the head spacing for a rimless case used in a semi automatic is set by the case length. If your cases are short you could finish up with too much headspace with the possibility of a separation. As the rimless is taper crimped rather than the roll crimp in the case of the revolver, small variation will not affect the pressure to the same extent as it would with the revolver. If you are field shooting or not crimping as is the case with many target revolver loads then case variation will not be super critical. In fact it may not even be evident without a chrony. So for me. Rimless - trim to correct and even length. Revolver - whatever suits unless you are using a crimp. Cheers for down under Aussie Bob

January 20, 2005, 01:27 AM	#10
redrooster2 Member Join Date: September 23, 2004 Location: north of Acadiana Posts: 80	I do an initial trim on brass that is going to be rolled crimped to get them all to the same length for a more consistent crimp.

January 20, 2005, 09:43 AM	#11
Quantrill Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 1999 Location: Arizona, USA Posts: 725	I have not ever trimmed pistol brass but would if someone could show me it improved MY accuracy. I do trim rifle brass, clean primer pockets and turn the necks for thickness and concentricity. Quantrill

January 20, 2005, 11:33 AM	#12
Rmouleart Senior Member Join Date: September 24, 2002 Location: NH Posts: 141	I always make my cases measure the same OAL before reloading,never cut Conner's when reloading. I also chamfer and debur,before resizing, everything has to be perfect when I reload, I use a single stage RCBS RockChucker, everything is done in single stages, seating and crimping,Dump 98%hand trickle the last 2% every load, always use a lee factory crimp for uniformity. That is the key word(uniformity)Good to go, In doing so I have developedn some very accurate rounds for my revolvers and rifles. Aim small hit small. RAMbo.

January 20, 2005, 02:10 PM	#13
30Cal Senior Member Join Date: December 3, 2002 Posts: 1,264	Never trimmed a single piece of pistol brass. Ty

January 20, 2005, 03:01 PM	#14
rbwillnj Member Join Date: December 14, 2004 Location: Northwest NJ Posts: 38	The first time I set up a Ransom Rest and tested my stardard reload in my Kimber, I got a 2 1/2" group at 25 yards. Then I tried different powders, different powder weights, different bullets, sorted brass by head stamp, and trimmed all the brass to the same lenght. I ended up using the same bullet as my original standard, the same powder, and the same charge, but I got it down to 1" groups. The only difference from what I started with was trimmed brass, and using just one brand of brass. That was good enough for me, I'm not going back. I only trim once to get them all the same.