March 18, 2016, 02:51 PM | #1 |
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Free Floating
I have removed material and free floated my barrel in preparations prior to glass bedding. Should the bare wood beneath the barrel be sealed somehow? Should I leave it as bare wood, finish it as I would finish the exterior of the rifle (Tung Oil), or use one of them MinWax Wood Hardener Sprays? Etc...?
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March 18, 2016, 03:55 PM | #2 |
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Should the bare wood beneath the barrel be sealed somehow?
Short answer yes If not the stock may draw moisture and swell . |
March 18, 2016, 04:21 PM | #3 | |
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Absotively
Another short answer of; YES.
This is routine for me on my guns as well as others. Recently helped a buddy that had opened up the channel for a target barrel. Did not ask for his input, just sealed it but not as heavy as I do the outside. Keep in mind that besides moisture, you want to seal from solvents and oils ...... Quote:
Be Safe !!!
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March 18, 2016, 08:37 PM | #4 |
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As others have said......YES. Most certainly. Any portion of a wooden stock that is left unsealed will allow moisture level change in the wood - and that is what leads to shrinking & swelling, with the attendant accuracy problems. NEVER leave any portion of a wood stock unsealed, even the barrel channel.
Properly sealed, inside and out, even a solid wood stock is (relatively) impervious to weather changes. Unlike what some believe, it is NOT temperature change that causes problems with such stocks. The cause is change in the moisture content of the wood. That can be stopped with a thorough sealing job. Minwax wood hardener may not be an adequate sealer. Can't say for sure, as I've never used this product. There are many things that will work, though. Tung oil (as you mentioned), sanding sealer, various varnishes, shellac, even paint. If you are finishing the outside with a Tung oil mixture, why not use it on the interior, too ? Make sure to flood all interior surfaces with sealer, even the trigger well. In my experience, shellac is about the easiest sealer to use on the interior surfaces of a rifle stock. It is easy to apply (either spray or liquid) and dries very quickly. Last edited by wpsdlrg; March 18, 2016 at 08:42 PM. |
March 19, 2016, 07:18 PM | #5 | |
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Don't forget the Buttplate area
Quote:
Be Safe !!!
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'Fundamental truths' are easy to recognize because they are verified daily through simple observation and thus, require no testing. Last edited by Pahoo; March 20, 2016 at 10:49 AM. |
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March 19, 2016, 09:38 PM | #6 |
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Excellent point, Pahoo.
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March 20, 2016, 12:32 PM | #7 |
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Use the tung oil on the inside too. It'll seal the wood. Mind you, so will any wood sealer.
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March 20, 2016, 03:11 PM | #8 |
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Pahoo, ironically, as you stated, every rifle I have ever removed the buttplate on had never been well sealed. If at all.
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March 20, 2016, 04:59 PM | #9 |
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The way to warp a piece a piece of wood is to seal one side and leave the other bare.
I've heard of guys show up to a benchrest match in the east from Arizona back when they used wood stocks and not make weight at weigh in because their stocks soaked in moisture from the high humidity.
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March 21, 2016, 07:51 AM | #10 |
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Then there are smiths that come from the school of few words. I know one that simply says “Boats float”. He did not attend finish school and was not interested in the short version.
F. Guffey |
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