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Old October 26, 2005, 08:01 PM   #1
kscoyotehunter
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Reloading .223 for Bushmaster AR-15

I'm loading around 3500 rounds for a Bushmaster AR-15. Let me explain what I have done then tell you the problem. I have sized, trimmed, tumbled, and checked all my cases. The problem is the brass is either a) hard to load or b) sticks in the chamber and is hard to eject by hand. I'm using a RCBSW small base sizer die and the die is adjusted to manufactor specs. I need help with the sticking problem. I have load ammunition for years and this is the first time for semi-auto rifle.
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Old October 26, 2005, 08:17 PM   #2
sleeping dog
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Does commercial ammo work ok in that gun?

Does newly sized unloaded brass chamber ok, and eject ok?

Are you crimping the rounds? Maybe over-crimping and causing a little buckling of the case? (one of my favorite tricks )

Regards.
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Old October 26, 2005, 08:19 PM   #3
kscoyotehunter
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questions answered

They stick in the gun either way and commercial ammo works fine. I can't see any buckling but I can't figure anything else that would cause it.
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Old October 27, 2005, 10:29 AM   #4
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Time for measurements.

Get out your calipers and mic and start checking the finished rounds against the dimensions in the reloading manual. Start at the case neck and mouth. If the cases were not fully deburred you could have an oversize condition.
Not saying that's the problem, but prececion measurements should locate the problem. Then it becomes a what created the condition investigation.
Good Luck.

Take Care
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Old October 27, 2005, 10:41 AM   #5
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My guess is too much crimp. You will probably find it belled at the shoulder if you look carefully. You will have to pull the bullet, re size it than check it and it will probably fit. Seat it with a very mild crimp or none at all, then check again.
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Old October 27, 2005, 03:39 PM   #6
sleeping dog
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If newly sized unloaded brass doesn't load, then it's probably not the crimp. Maybe the sizing die is too low, so it's crushing the shoulder. Or maybe the neck expander is too big. Or just a bad die.

Have you called RCBS customer service? Maybe they have some advice. Micrometer measurements of various parts of the case might help. Along with the same measurements on a new commercial cartridge. If there's something wrong with the die, they'll ship a new one out free.
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Old October 27, 2005, 04:38 PM   #7
Rico567
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I load only for Bushmaster in AR-15s. I used to load with standard RCBS dies on my Rock Chucker. No problems. I now load on my Dillon XL650 with Dillon carbide dies. No problems. I do not crimp with the Dillon die, however. I use a Lee FCD. I concur with previous advice; measure all relevant dimensions to determine the problem. If your gun shoots commercial ammo with no problem, then your problem(s) lie with your reloaded ammo. Some dimension, or combination of dimensions, is off.
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Old October 27, 2005, 04:58 PM   #8
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Rico, what's the advantage of the carbide dies? Will they resize without lube, like pistol dies?

Regards.
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Old October 28, 2005, 07:53 AM   #9
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I would like to know what you find. I have been reloading for the .223 for a few years now and my first batch stuck the way yours did. I had to use a screwdriver to pry the bolt back. Once I rotated the bolt it came free. You should have some marks on the case where it is sticking or it is tight. I cambered them each step until I found the step causing it. (in my case it was too much crimp expanding the case just at the shoulder). Also FL resizing means letting the Die touch the shell holder to set the shoulder back. This can be customized for the gun but to start FL resize.
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Old October 28, 2005, 03:54 PM   #10
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"sleeping dog," no, you MUST lube when resizing a bottleneck case, even if using carbide dies. The advantage of the carbide die for something like .223 is long life, less die wear, that kind of thing. I have encountered no problems doing this, using a spray lube (currently using Dillon's) with a very light touch. Loading .223 progressively is great.
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Old October 30, 2005, 08:26 AM   #11
pete nasto
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I had that problem once using rcbs comp. die set and then got me a max cartridge gage, found my prob. was in the taper at the neck. make shure theres no movment at the die head on your press stroke, or get an rcbs x die and you wont have to trim your cases after the first. i strongly recomend a case gage.
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Old October 31, 2005, 01:41 AM   #12
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Are they trimmed to the correct length? If so then you need to turn your seizer die down just a little bit more it shouldn’t take much. I recommend getting a case gage it will be very helpful when adjusting your dies. If you don’t have one you can use the chamber in your rifle as a guide. Size the case, wipe off all the lube then drop it into the chamber. Now turn the barrel over and the case should drop out freely. (Make sure the chamber is clean and dry) Adjust your die until it does.
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Old November 3, 2005, 08:34 AM   #13
rambo1937
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Reloading .223 for bushmaster ar 15

Here is my 2 cents......
Buy a RCBS Precision Mic, Fire five rounds in your rifle mic all cases and you will get an average for your chamber.

Set your dies to set the shoulder back .002 to .003 from the average.

If you have mixed brands of cases or from different lots of the same brand you will get different results.

In my experience military and federal are the hardest cases.

If your lube is not applied evenly you will get variations in resized cases.

For a test of the lube size a case mic it then resize it again and you will get a different reading.

Jim
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Old November 5, 2005, 03:35 AM   #14
Tim R
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Setting the shoulder back .002 to .003 works well for a man's USGI gas gun, '06 or 308, it won't for the 223.

I had a simular problem after reloading a few years of 308 for my match tuned M-1.

I had to set the die to kiss the shell holder with a small amount of resistance on cam over. Problem solved. I using a Hornady match bushing die by the way with a WOP upper. I use Lake City GI brass. With Federal brass you will find it opens the primer pocket pretty fast and not worth it. Winchester brass is simular to L/C.
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Old November 5, 2005, 04:40 PM   #15
rambo1937
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Dang it''''''''''''''''' I'm loading for 3 different manufactured ar 15's and I have been doing it wrong. I will have to start over again.

The ones I have reloaded will run in an auto. I hope I can get it right this time. Jim
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Old November 5, 2005, 07:27 PM   #16
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Ditch the small base dies and go with standard f.l. dies. Lee work just fine; however, if you'd like to avoid a lot of trimming, go with the RCBS X die. Buy a Wilson case gage and read the instructions, then use the Wilson gage for setting up your sizing die. You're probably not bumping the shoulders sufficiently and/or you're crimping too heavily.

You don't need to crimp .223s used in an AR.
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Old November 6, 2005, 12:13 AM   #17
Jamie Young
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I have come to the conclusion that my Bushmaster XM15E2 is a target rifles. The chamber in it is so tight I had a heck of a time trying to run it like a semi-auto. It works with my present setup, but I do get occasional jams.

I have about 1000rds of reloads that run in all 3 of my Mini 14's but run like a bolt action in my Bushmaster. One of my Mini's has had over 18,000rds of reloads through it and only 6 jams. Most of the jams are blamed on a recoil spring that should have been replaced sooner.

It seems some of the Bushmasters have absurdly tight chambers. I didn't want a target rifle when I got it, but now I have one.
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Old November 6, 2005, 01:34 PM   #18
Rivers
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I've put several thousand rounds of my reloads through my Bushy. Of course a Mini's chamber is a lot sloppier than a Bushmaster's; however, it's pretty simple to make quality reloads that work in Bushmasters.
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