Forster Co-Ax Issues?

gearheadpyro · January 2, 2010, 08:12 PM

I'm graduating from a Lee Breeck Lock press. I went ahead and bit the bullet on a Forster Co-Ax last week and am currently waiting on the UPS guy to bring me my present. I was just wondering if anyone on here has had any issues with it. Anyone have any tips or advice on getting setup or running?

Like I said, I haven't got it yet. I'm just trying to make sure everything goes smoothly.

I am curious as to how to prime on this press. Will my Lee Auto Prime 2 (die) work on it or is the presses priming system pretty good?

5R milspec · January 2, 2010, 09:53 PM

just hand prime and be done with it.this way you can feel the primer being seated.so that you can tell weather or not the primer pocket is getting loose.

wncchester · January 2, 2010, 10:24 PM

Not likely the AutoPrime II will work under that wish-bone lever. But, it will still work on your old press!

Clark · January 3, 2010, 11:45 AM

When the jaws are taken out and changed from big case head to small case head, the spring(s) can fly across the room.

I bought an extra jaw assembly, drilled and tapped for a screw that holds it all together.
I can now swap sizes in second while blindfolded.
I sent my free engineering to Forster, who ignored that one too.

I just got a very old Bonanza co-ax press.

Things change a glacial pace at Forster.

Nomo4me · January 3, 2010, 01:44 PM

Love my Co-ax. I use an RCBS Univerasal priming tool for small rifle and leave the Co-ax priming set up for .308 head size. It's fast and plenty sensitive enough.
Go to midwayusa and get a pack of Forster die collars. They work best in the Co-ax though I also make use of some Hornady LNL steel collars. I like the Forster ones better though.

Edit: While you are at Midway make sure to buy the short handle with round knob for your Co-ax. Makes the press much easier to use.

jag2 · January 3, 2010, 05:48 PM

Got mine last spring. Took a little getting used to just because it was different
than my Rock Chucker but really love it. I agree, get the short handle
and rings but they are lot cheaper at Gun Stop. Nice guys. I've read about
people losing the springs but as long as you are watching out for it, no big deal. The large size jaws handle most everything people commonly shoot.
I have to change it for M-1 carbine and that's it.

BigJakeJ1s · January 3, 2010, 07:03 PM

If you load while sitting down in front of the co-ax, the shorter ball handle may be preferable because it reduces the distance the handle sticks out towards you. I load standing up, and bought the shorter, ball-tipped handle, but abandoned it in favor of the original handle. The long grip surface on the original handle provides a variety of grip positions which reduces hand fatigue. I usually start and end the cycle with my hand at the top of the yoke, only sliding my hand out far enough on the handle to comfortably provide the amount of force required. I may shorten the original handle a little, but I will certainly keep the tubular grip.

I use an RCBS universal hand primer, mainly because I don't like having to handle individual primers.

If you want to use a collet-type bullet puller, the RCBS and original Forster types do not work on it the tool will rotate in the slot so you can't loosen/tighten the puller on the bullet. The Hornady cam-lock puller works very well though. Forster also has a new puller that you use a wrench to tighten/loosen, but it does not look nearly as easy to use as the Hornady.

If you desire or need to use conventional shell holders, Forster has an adapter plate that allows their use on the co-ax.

But most of all, enjoy your new press! It is the best designed, best built, single stage reloading press available.

Andy

Hog Buster · January 3, 2010, 08:21 PM

I have a old Bonanza bought from Herter's maybe 50 years ago. There's no telling how many thousand rounds that have been loaded on it without any problems. It's the same press as today's Forster. By far it is the best press I have ever used. Get the extra set of jaws (LS I think) and a few extra jaw springs (for sure you'll loose one now and then) and you can load for many years trouble free. The only parts I have ever replaced on mine are jaw springs (lost) and primer drop tube (broken off with knee). You will need Forster rings for some dies. Midway sells them in a dozen pack fairly cheap. Priming is faster and easier with a hand primer tool.

DoctorXring · January 3, 2010, 09:05 PM

.

I waited a long time before I got a Co-Ax. I would hate to
be without it now. Don't wait... get one.

.

gearheadpyro · January 4, 2010, 10:38 PM

Got the press today and got it all set up. Everything is working smoothly.

It surprised me how small it is. It looked a lot bigger in the pictures.

It did take me a couple minutes to get the hang of setting my dies up, but no biggy there.

Overall it looks like a very fine addition to the tool collection. Thanks to everyone for the help.

January 2, 2010, 08:12 PM	#1
gearheadpyro Senior Member Join Date: September 3, 2009 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 169	Forster Co-Ax Issues? I'm graduating from a Lee Breeck Lock press. I went ahead and bit the bullet on a Forster Co-Ax last week and am currently waiting on the UPS guy to bring me my present. I was just wondering if anyone on here has had any issues with it. Anyone have any tips or advice on getting setup or running? Like I said, I haven't got it yet. I'm just trying to make sure everything goes smoothly. I am curious as to how to prime on this press. Will my Lee Auto Prime 2 (die) work on it or is the presses priming system pretty good? __________________ www.southernmarksman.com Owner of & Chief Instructor for The Southern Marksman, LLC NRA Life Member, NRA CRSO, Multi-Discipline NRA Certified Instructor

January 4, 2010, 10:38 PM	#10
gearheadpyro Senior Member Join Date: September 3, 2009 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 169	Got the press today and got it all set up. Everything is working smoothly. It surprised me how small it is. It looked a lot bigger in the pictures. It did take me a couple minutes to get the hang of setting my dies up, but no biggy there. Overall it looks like a very fine addition to the tool collection. Thanks to everyone for the help. __________________ www.southernmarksman.com Owner of & Chief Instructor for The Southern Marksman, LLC NRA Life Member, NRA CRSO, Multi-Discipline NRA Certified Instructor

January 2, 2010, 09:53 PM	#2
5R milspec Senior Member Join Date: December 11, 2009 Location: South Carolina Posts: 360	just hand prime and be done with it.this way you can feel the primer being seated.so that you can tell weather or not the primer pocket is getting loose.

January 2, 2010, 10:24 PM	#3
wncchester Senior Member Join Date: December 1, 2002 Posts: 2,832	Not likely the AutoPrime II will work under that wish-bone lever. But, it will still work on your old press!

January 3, 2010, 01:44 PM	#5
Nomo4me Member Join Date: September 24, 2009 Location: Salt Lake City Posts: 58	Love my Co-ax. I use an RCBS Univerasal priming tool for small rifle and leave the Co-ax priming set up for .308 head size. It's fast and plenty sensitive enough. Go to midwayusa and get a pack of Forster die collars. They work best in the Co-ax though I also make use of some Hornady LNL steel collars. I like the Forster ones better though. Edit: While you are at Midway make sure to buy the short handle with round knob for your Co-ax. Makes the press much easier to use.

January 3, 2010, 05:48 PM	#6
jag2 Senior Member Join Date: June 30, 2009 Location: dallas Posts: 773	Got mine last spring. Took a little getting used to just because it was different than my Rock Chucker but really love it. I agree, get the short handle and rings but they are lot cheaper at Gun Stop. Nice guys. I've read about people losing the springs but as long as you are watching out for it, no big deal. The large size jaws handle most everything people commonly shoot. I have to change it for M-1 carbine and that's it.

January 3, 2010, 07:03 PM	#7
BigJakeJ1s Senior Member Join Date: August 8, 2005 Location: Arlington TX Posts: 663	If you load while sitting down in front of the co-ax, the shorter ball handle may be preferable because it reduces the distance the handle sticks out towards you. I load standing up, and bought the shorter, ball-tipped handle, but abandoned it in favor of the original handle. The long grip surface on the original handle provides a variety of grip positions which reduces hand fatigue. I usually start and end the cycle with my hand at the top of the yoke, only sliding my hand out far enough on the handle to comfortably provide the amount of force required. I may shorten the original handle a little, but I will certainly keep the tubular grip. I use an RCBS universal hand primer, mainly because I don't like having to handle individual primers. If you want to use a collet-type bullet puller, the RCBS and original Forster types do not work on it the tool will rotate in the slot so you can't loosen/tighten the puller on the bullet. The Hornady cam-lock puller works very well though. Forster also has a new puller that you use a wrench to tighten/loosen, but it does not look nearly as easy to use as the Hornady. If you desire or need to use conventional shell holders, Forster has an adapter plate that allows their use on the co-ax. But most of all, enjoy your new press! It is the best designed, best built, single stage reloading press available. Andy

January 3, 2010, 09:05 PM	#9
DoctorXring Senior Member Join Date: April 30, 2002 Location: The Republic of Texas Posts: 392	. I waited a long time before I got a Co-Ax. I would hate to be without it now. Don't wait... get one. .