Removing the grip pin from a USFA SAA

credx2 · September 25, 2009, 01:54 AM

I need a little help. I just took delivery of a new USFA SAA a couple of weeks ago and ordered it with unfinished one piece walnut grips. In order to install the grips I have to remove the grip pin at the bottom of the trigger guard/front strap. This is not a roll pin; it is solid. I gave it a couple of taps with a hammer but it didn't budge. I'm no gun smith nor do I want to go whacking on my new gun with a hammer and punch unless that is the correct procedure. I e-mailed USFA with the same question but thought I would ask here.

Appreciate any help

James K · September 25, 2009, 10:28 PM

That is the correct procedure unless you would prefer to grind the ends off.

Then you install the grips and use masking tape on the metal while you trim the grips down to fit. Take your time and be careful and you can turn out a nice looking job.

Jim

PetahW · September 26, 2009, 07:26 AM

[I gave it a couple of taps with a hammer but it didn't budge.]

Locator pins are swedged in very tightly, and taps simply won't do the job.

The frame need to be full supported on a solid block, like oak, with a relief hole in the middle for the pin to fall into after it's driven out of the frame by solid blows from a heavy hammer.

I have had a few guns/locator pins, however - like a Ruger DA - that had to have the pin started by driving it via squeezing in vise jaws, using the block/hole support.

.

credx2 · September 26, 2009, 02:59 PM

Used the vice and then a punch. Came out fine. Thanks for the help.

September 26, 2009, 02:59 PM	#4
credx2 Member Join Date: February 18, 2007 Posts: 55	Thanks Fella's that did the trick Used the vice and then a punch. Came out fine. Thanks for the help. Last edited by credx2; September 28, 2009 at 02:18 AM.

September 25, 2009, 10:28 PM	#2
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	That is the correct procedure unless you would prefer to grind the ends off. Then you install the grips and use masking tape on the metal while you trim the grips down to fit. Take your time and be careful and you can turn out a nice looking job. Jim

September 26, 2009, 07:26 AM	#3
PetahW Senior Member Join Date: September 19, 2008 Posts: 4,678	[I gave it a couple of taps with a hammer but it didn't budge.] Locator pins are swedged in very tightly, and taps simply won't do the job. The frame need to be full supported on a solid block, like oak, with a relief hole in the middle for the pin to fall into after it's driven out of the frame by solid blows from a heavy hammer. I have had a few guns/locator pins, however - like a Ruger DA - that had to have the pin started by driving it via squeezing in vise jaws, using the block/hole support. .