Stock finishing-w/BC Tru-oil

BoogieMan · July 25, 2012, 09:38 AM

I am using the BC Tru-Oil kit to do a stock refinish. I stripped then sanded with random orbital down to 240. Then hand sanded down to 400. I want to stain the stock but according to directions I need to use the tru-oil to wet sand the stock. Use it like a sanding sealer. No problem except I cant mix the water stain with the oil finish.
My question is if I use the wet oil sand process can I stain after? If I stain first wont I loose my color when wet sanding? I would love to hear some input on how to get the best possible smooth shiny stock when done.

wncchester · July 25, 2012, 11:06 AM

Use the water stain first and let it totally dry. Water will raise the grain and you will need to use a block and maybe the 400 grit to level that. And a second staining will help insure the top layer of wood has attained its full color.

After you're satisfied with the color and surface texture, apply a thinned coat of Tru-Oil and lightly 'wet' sand that, you may need to do it a couple more times to sand off a bit of wood and force it into the open pores. Observe light reflections off the surface, when the pores are filled to your satisfaction it's time to start building your surface thickness. (And make sure you saturate/seal the raw interior wood as well, the finish will help reduce water absorbtion on rainy days in the woods.)

I prefer to spread very thin coats with wet finger tips, spreading it with my hand and leaving it to dry a full day between coats. I will go over it lightly with 4/0 steel wool before each successive coat to knock off dust nibs. It takes 5 - 7 top coats to achieve what I'm after, sometimes much more.

I let the last coat cure for a couple of weeks before rubbing it down to a uniform dull surface with the steel wool and polishing it back up with fine auto or boat rubbing compound to get the gloss I'm after. It looks like the old Browning or Remington stock finishes but without the brittleness of epoxy. Both Tru-Oil and Linspeed are very good stock finishes.

I'm sure other methods will work too.

July 25, 2012, 09:38 AM	#1
BoogieMan Senior Member Join Date: April 4, 2012 Location: South Jersey Posts: 2,217	Stock finishing-w/BC Tru-oil I am using the BC Tru-Oil kit to do a stock refinish. I stripped then sanded with random orbital down to 240. Then hand sanded down to 400. I want to stain the stock but according to directions I need to use the tru-oil to wet sand the stock. Use it like a sanding sealer. No problem except I cant mix the water stain with the oil finish. My question is if I use the wet oil sand process can I stain after? If I stain first wont I loose my color when wet sanding? I would love to hear some input on how to get the best possible smooth shiny stock when done. __________________ Concentrated power is not rendered harmless by the good intentions of those who create it. Milton Freidman "If you find yourself in a fair fight,,, Your tactics suck"- Unknown Last edited by BoogieMan; July 25, 2012 at 09:47 AM.

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July 25, 2012, 11:06 AM	#2
wncchester Senior Member Join Date: December 1, 2002 Posts: 2,832	Use the water stain first and let it totally dry. Water will raise the grain and you will need to use a block and maybe the 400 grit to level that. And a second staining will help insure the top layer of wood has attained its full color. After you're satisfied with the color and surface texture, apply a thinned coat of Tru-Oil and lightly 'wet' sand that, you may need to do it a couple more times to sand off a bit of wood and force it into the open pores. Observe light reflections off the surface, when the pores are filled to your satisfaction it's time to start building your surface thickness. (And make sure you saturate/seal the raw interior wood as well, the finish will help reduce water absorbtion on rainy days in the woods.) I prefer to spread very thin coats with wet finger tips, spreading it with my hand and leaving it to dry a full day between coats. I will go over it lightly with 4/0 steel wool before each successive coat to knock off dust nibs. It takes 5 - 7 top coats to achieve what I'm after, sometimes much more. I let the last coat cure for a couple of weeks before rubbing it down to a uniform dull surface with the steel wool and polishing it back up with fine auto or boat rubbing compound to get the gloss I'm after. It looks like the old Browning or Remington stock finishes but without the brittleness of epoxy. Both Tru-Oil and Linspeed are very good stock finishes. I'm sure other methods will work too.