Q fer the reloader folks... - Page 2

jaguarxk120 · June 18, 2011, 02:20 PM

The ProCheck keeps the wad guide in position when dropping the powder.

When the bar is slid to the left dropping the powder charge the ProCheck keeps the wad guide in position for the seating of the wad.

Other wise you have to hold or push the wad guide down for wad seating.

After the wad is seated, moving the bar to the right(dropping shot) allows the wad guide to move up and out of the way so the shell can go to the crimping station.

TheKlawMan · June 18, 2011, 06:50 PM

I couldn't find a washer at HD. I will just order one. Meanwhile, it is working pretty well with the powder baffle removed. Maybe I should have taken BigJims advice and gotten a new reloader, but by the time all is said and done I should know the machine inside out.

TheKlawMan · June 18, 2011, 07:01 PM

Jaguar. What you say makes sense. I noticed that sometime my wad guide doesn't move to well. Perhaps. I will play with it and see if it is binding for any reason. Am I correct that the Pro Check is supposed to be tightened down?

TheKlawMan · June 18, 2011, 08:44 PM

Just finished another box and things are smoothing out. The pro check is working as Jaguar said it. N Ow I am all loaded for Father's Day at the trap field with my Wife, Son, and Daughter. This should be . . . different.

oneounceload · June 18, 2011, 09:01 PM

Nice to see some more folks falling under the reloading spell.............Soon your houses will be over run with cases of wads, sleeves of primers and buckets of empty hulls.................

TheKlawMan · June 18, 2011, 10:34 PM

Oneounceload is Evil

zippy13 · June 18, 2011, 11:12 PM

I can't understand it -- my wife doesn't think the pantry is a good place for bags of hulls and empty shot shell boxes.

oneounceload · June 19, 2011, 12:43 PM

I made the mistake, ONCE, in my youth of washing hulls in the washing machine.........to ANYone contemplating this action, stop now unless you want a divorce

zippy13 · June 19, 2011, 12:57 PM

1-oz,
You know you're an addict when your range hulls go directly into net laundry bags. I've only know one shooter who did that, and she acted like the rest of us were crazy for loading nasty, dirty hulls.
Back in the day, you did bag your laundered hulls, didn't you?

TheKlawMan · June 19, 2011, 09:47 PM

For shame, oneounceload. Even I know that dirty hulls is what the China cycle of the dishwasher is for. What I still can't figure is whether or not to add rinse aid.

oneounceload · June 19, 2011, 10:01 PM

They're even louder in the damn dryer..............mesh bag or not........THAT was a "momma lesson" I don't want to repeat...........

TheKlawMan · June 19, 2011, 11:02 PM

That is why you use the dish washer and set it on heated dry or so I have been told. The trick is they have to be stacked so they stay open end down. Depending on the size of your upper rack that means you need around 900 hulls if you are going to pack them in tight. That or the George Foreman shotsheel hull stacking rack available in handy 50 and 100 hull sizes. When not in use to shine up your hulls it makes a mean fish fry rack.

.45 COLT · June 20, 2011, 12:50 AM

Not a recommended procedure for Federal Champion hulls.

DC

jaguarxk120 · June 20, 2011, 07:45 AM

Any shell that has a paper base wad do not wash, only the ALL plastic shells can be washed.

TheKlawMan · June 20, 2011, 11:51 AM

I thought this stuff about washing hulls in the wife's washing machine was in jest. Tell me it was a joke.

BigJimP · June 20, 2011, 12:42 PM

It should be a joke ...but who knows....

The washer you are looking for / as far as I know /is unique to MEC because it has some dimples in one side ....and depending on the age of the loader - the dimples either go up or down ( you'll have to look at your directions).

Ask around at your club ...but most of us that use MEC loaders have extra brass washers ...and they'll give you one / let you replace it when you get your order. If a retailer has some MEC parts / they might have the washers where they have the charge bars and bushings, etc ...or anybody that works on MEC loaders in your area will have them.

TheKlawMan · June 20, 2011, 01:27 PM

Actually, BigJim, the particular washer isn't an MEC part but from the Canadian company that sells the adjustable charge bars and powder baffles. The part is on $1 but the shippping is $9. But I agree that I shouldn't just use any washer but get the right one. I might just buy a new powder baffle if one is in stock at Prado or Phillips Wholesale for, guess what, $10.00. Meanwhile, the powder drops are working well without the baffle, which I believe may not be as important in Southern California as it may be in a humid climate.

Also, this particular washer has a down and an up side.

oneounceload · June 20, 2011, 01:43 PM

If you get a powder baffle, (and you should), get the red plastic PC one, NOT the zinc-cast one

I would NEVER use momma's dishwasher for washing hulls, but the washing machine did a decent job - but that dryer!..might as well thrown in a bucket of coins and marbles with her cat inside........

BigJimP · June 20, 2011, 03:26 PM

OneOunce --- you lead a dangerous life buddy ....

I forgot you're using that "multi adjustable nasty charge bar thing...."

...and you're right, I don't know what goes in that thing ....

OneOunce and I disagree on the powder baffle too ...I've quit using them..because I think they were giving me bad drops ( which makes no sense / because they ought to work / concept is sound ) ...but I pulled the one I had installed on an old 12ga Grabber recently - when it kept giving me bad powder drops with Clays. I went back to the brass washer and the grommet ...and it was 100% on target...

I've also taken the powder baffles off of my Mec hydraulic presses too ...

TheKlawMan · June 20, 2011, 03:42 PM

Oneounce. The powder baffle I have is the cast zinc one from Multi Scale Charge and I don't see where they even sell a plastic one. What is the story on the plastic ones and why do you prefer them?

As for the brass washer, there is one listed on the MEC parts list for the Grabber, but none is depicted on the parts blowup. However, its number suggest it is for use with the charge bottles. For now I will live without the baffle until I figure out if it does me any good.

BigJimP · June 20, 2011, 05:52 PM

There is an old and a new model on the "Grabber" ....and I don't know about the new model ....but on the old one ....it called for a rubber grommet on both powder and shot sides ...and a brass washer ( nipples up ) on the powder side ...but only for "fine powders" ....and on powders, like Clays, I'm not sure you need the brass washer under the grommet.

oneounceload · June 20, 2011, 07:34 PM

Take that zinc POS and make a fishing weight out of it.

THIS is the one you want:

http://www.recobstargetshop.com/browse.cfm/4,1374.html

they work - and when you get into a certain rhythm with your press, you'll get your drops to stay consistent

TheKlawMan · June 20, 2011, 09:47 PM

Thanks, oneounce. I ordered one from that outfit, which BigJIm also likes to do business with, along with a few other llittle MEC items.

I almost ordered the brass washers BigJim mentioned, but the fishing weight won't need it. Actually if it was lead it could ge melted down for shot.

TheKlawMan · June 27, 2011, 04:05 PM

I received the red plastic baffle and experimented to see if it is helpful. I think it may so the trick, even if my drops are still not the best.

To try to reduce variables, I did this with no shot in the bottle and the same grommets that came with the Sizemaster when I got it used. This is with no brass powder washer.

I dropped powder into 10 previously fired AA compressed hulls and measured the powder drops in the order that they were made. I got readings of 15.3, 15.2, 15.4, 14.8, 15.4, 15.3, 15.3, 15.4, 15.2, and 15.1. Excluding the 14.8 grain outlier, which I subscribe to not pushing the charge bar far enough to the left, I get an average drop of 15.2889 which I will call a 15.3.

What is interesting is the charge bar had been set for a 15.9 grain drop, with no baffle.

I don't know what is going on, but if I can adjust the UCB to drop 15.9 grains +/- .1 grain I will be a happy camper; especially if I get my technique down to avoid that outlier short drop.

BigJimP · June 27, 2011, 04:36 PM

I'd turn that "multi - charge bar" into a fishing weight too ...and go back to a charge bar with bushings in it !!

Your range is 15.1 to 15.4 ....so its not terrible .../ but its not great either ! .... but I sure don't like that 14.8 in there ....

I think there is a screw in the face of that charge bar - that limits its travel to the left ...( you have to make sure it goes all the way over !! ) or at least there is one on the charge bars that use bushings ...and the amount of travel to the left is easily adjusted.

A tip: take the powder bottle off the press. Look down inside the charge bar --- as you cycle the bar to the left ( and see, at what point, the cavity that picks up the powder is fully exposed - so it fills properly ). As little as 1/4" of travel in the bar ....may make a big difference.

June 27, 2011, 04:05 PM	#49
TheKlawMan Junior member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,149	Improved drops with plastic baffle I received the red plastic baffle and experimented to see if it is helpful. I think it may so the trick, even if my drops are still not the best. To try to reduce variables, I did this with no shot in the bottle and the same grommets that came with the Sizemaster when I got it used. This is with no brass powder washer. I dropped powder into 10 previously fired AA compressed hulls and measured the powder drops in the order that they were made. I got readings of 15.3, 15.2, 15.4, 14.8, 15.4, 15.3, 15.3, 15.4, 15.2, and 15.1. Excluding the 14.8 grain outlier, which I subscribe to not pushing the charge bar far enough to the left, I get an average drop of 15.2889 which I will call a 15.3. What is interesting is the charge bar had been set for a 15.9 grain drop, with no baffle. I don't know what is going on, but if I can adjust the UCB to drop 15.9 grains +/- .1 grain I will be a happy camper; especially if I get my technique down to avoid that outlier short drop.

June 18, 2011, 02:20 PM	#26
jaguarxk120 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2008 Location: Michigan Posts: 2,620	The ProCheck keeps the wad guide in position when dropping the powder. When the bar is slid to the left dropping the powder charge the ProCheck keeps the wad guide in position for the seating of the wad. Other wise you have to hold or push the wad guide down for wad seating. After the wad is seated, moving the bar to the right(dropping shot) allows the wad guide to move up and out of the way so the shell can go to the crimping station.

June 18, 2011, 06:50 PM	#27
TheKlawMan Junior member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,149	I couldn't find a washer at HD. I will just order one. Meanwhile, it is working pretty well with the powder baffle removed. Maybe I should have taken BigJims advice and gotten a new reloader, but by the time all is said and done I should know the machine inside out.

June 18, 2011, 07:01 PM	#28
TheKlawMan Junior member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,149	Jaguar. What you say makes sense. I noticed that sometime my wad guide doesn't move to well. Perhaps. I will play with it and see if it is binding for any reason. Am I correct that the Pro Check is supposed to be tightened down?

June 18, 2011, 08:44 PM	#29
TheKlawMan Junior member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,149	Just finished another box and things are smoothing out. The pro check is working as Jaguar said it. N Ow I am all loaded for Father's Day at the trap field with my Wife, Son, and Daughter. This should be . . . different.

June 18, 2011, 09:01 PM	#30
oneounceload Junior member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: N. Central Florida Posts: 8,518	Nice to see some more folks falling under the reloading spell.............Soon your houses will be over run with cases of wads, sleeves of primers and buckets of empty hulls.................

June 18, 2011, 10:34 PM	#31
TheKlawMan Junior member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,149	Oneounceload is Evil

June 18, 2011, 11:12 PM	#32
zippy13 Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2008 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,442	I can't understand it -- my wife doesn't think the pantry is a good place for bags of hulls and empty shot shell boxes.

June 19, 2011, 12:43 PM	#33
oneounceload Junior member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: N. Central Florida Posts: 8,518	I made the mistake, ONCE, in my youth of washing hulls in the washing machine.........to ANYone contemplating this action, stop now unless you want a divorce

June 19, 2011, 12:57 PM	#34
zippy13 Senior Member Join Date: August 23, 2008 Location: SoCal Posts: 6,442	1-oz, You know you're an addict when your range hulls go directly into net laundry bags. I've only know one shooter who did that, and she acted like the rest of us were crazy for loading nasty, dirty hulls. Back in the day, you did bag your laundered hulls, didn't you?

June 19, 2011, 09:47 PM	#35
TheKlawMan Junior member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,149	For shame, oneounceload. Even I know that dirty hulls is what the China cycle of the dishwasher is for. What I still can't figure is whether or not to add rinse aid.

June 19, 2011, 10:01 PM	#36
oneounceload Junior member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: N. Central Florida Posts: 8,518	They're even louder in the damn dryer..............mesh bag or not........THAT was a "momma lesson" I don't want to repeat...........

June 19, 2011, 11:02 PM	#37
TheKlawMan Junior member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,149	That is why you use the dish washer and set it on heated dry or so I have been told. The trick is they have to be stacked so they stay open end down. Depending on the size of your upper rack that means you need around 900 hulls if you are going to pack them in tight. That or the George Foreman shotsheel hull stacking rack available in handy 50 and 100 hull sizes. When not in use to shine up your hulls it makes a mean fish fry rack.

June 20, 2011, 12:50 AM	#38
.45 COLT Senior Member Join Date: May 18, 2004 Posts: 308	Not a recommended procedure for Federal Champion hulls. DC

June 20, 2011, 07:45 AM	#39
jaguarxk120 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2008 Location: Michigan Posts: 2,620	Any shell that has a paper base wad do not wash, only the ALL plastic shells can be washed.

June 20, 2011, 11:51 AM	#40
TheKlawMan Junior member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,149	I thought this stuff about washing hulls in the wife's washing machine was in jest. Tell me it was a joke.

June 20, 2011, 12:42 PM	#41
BigJimP Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Posts: 13,195	It should be a joke ...but who knows.... The washer you are looking for / as far as I know /is unique to MEC because it has some dimples in one side ....and depending on the age of the loader - the dimples either go up or down ( you'll have to look at your directions). Ask around at your club ...but most of us that use MEC loaders have extra brass washers ...and they'll give you one / let you replace it when you get your order. If a retailer has some MEC parts / they might have the washers where they have the charge bars and bushings, etc ...or anybody that works on MEC loaders in your area will have them.

June 20, 2011, 01:27 PM	#42
TheKlawMan Junior member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,149	Actually, BigJim, the particular washer isn't an MEC part but from the Canadian company that sells the adjustable charge bars and powder baffles. The part is on $1 but the shippping is $9. But I agree that I shouldn't just use any washer but get the right one. I might just buy a new powder baffle if one is in stock at Prado or Phillips Wholesale for, guess what, $10.00. Meanwhile, the powder drops are working well without the baffle, which I believe may not be as important in Southern California as it may be in a humid climate. Also, this particular washer has a down and an up side.

June 20, 2011, 01:43 PM	#43
oneounceload Junior member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: N. Central Florida Posts: 8,518	If you get a powder baffle, (and you should), get the red plastic PC one, NOT the zinc-cast one I would NEVER use momma's dishwasher for washing hulls, but the washing machine did a decent job - but that dryer!..might as well thrown in a bucket of coins and marbles with her cat inside........

June 20, 2011, 03:26 PM	#44
BigJimP Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Posts: 13,195	OneOunce --- you lead a dangerous life buddy .... I forgot you're using that "multi adjustable nasty charge bar thing...." ...and you're right, I don't know what goes in that thing .... OneOunce and I disagree on the powder baffle too ...I've quit using them..because I think they were giving me bad drops ( which makes no sense / because they ought to work / concept is sound ) ...but I pulled the one I had installed on an old 12ga Grabber recently - when it kept giving me bad powder drops with Clays. I went back to the brass washer and the grommet ...and it was 100% on target... I've also taken the powder baffles off of my Mec hydraulic presses too ...

June 20, 2011, 03:42 PM	#45
TheKlawMan Junior member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,149	Oneounce. The powder baffle I have is the cast zinc one from Multi Scale Charge and I don't see where they even sell a plastic one. What is the story on the plastic ones and why do you prefer them? As for the brass washer, there is one listed on the MEC parts list for the Grabber, but none is depicted on the parts blowup. However, its number suggest it is for use with the charge bottles. For now I will live without the baffle until I figure out if it does me any good.

June 20, 2011, 05:52 PM	#46
BigJimP Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Posts: 13,195	There is an old and a new model on the "Grabber" ....and I don't know about the new model ....but on the old one ....it called for a rubber grommet on both powder and shot sides ...and a brass washer ( nipples up ) on the powder side ...but only for "fine powders" ....and on powders, like Clays, I'm not sure you need the brass washer under the grommet.

June 20, 2011, 07:34 PM	#47
oneounceload Junior member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: N. Central Florida Posts: 8,518	Take that zinc POS and make a fishing weight out of it. THIS is the one you want: http://www.recobstargetshop.com/browse.cfm/4,1374.html they work - and when you get into a certain rhythm with your press, you'll get your drops to stay consistent

June 20, 2011, 09:47 PM	#48
TheKlawMan Junior member Join Date: June 23, 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,149	Thanks, oneounce. I ordered one from that outfit, which BigJIm also likes to do business with, along with a few other llittle MEC items. I almost ordered the brass washers BigJim mentioned, but the fishing weight won't need it. Actually if it was lead it could ge melted down for shot.

June 27, 2011, 04:36 PM	#50
BigJimP Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2005 Posts: 13,195	I'd turn that "multi - charge bar" into a fishing weight too ...and go back to a charge bar with bushings in it !! Your range is 15.1 to 15.4 ....so its not terrible .../ but its not great either ! .... but I sure don't like that 14.8 in there .... I think there is a screw in the face of that charge bar - that limits its travel to the left ...( you have to make sure it goes all the way over !! ) or at least there is one on the charge bars that use bushings ...and the amount of travel to the left is easily adjusted. A tip: take the powder bottle off the press. Look down inside the charge bar --- as you cycle the bar to the left ( and see, at what point, the cavity that picks up the powder is fully exposed - so it fills properly ). As little as 1/4" of travel in the bar ....may make a big difference.