|
Forum Rules | Firearms Safety | Firearms Photos | Links | Library | Lost Password | Email Changes |
Register | FAQ | Calendar | Today's Posts | Search |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
January 18, 2014, 06:56 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 15, 2012
Location: Western New York
Posts: 466
|
Hornady 223 brass question
So I haven't done any reloading in a few months because components have been scarce. So I hit the local gun shop today and picked up some primers and a box of Hornadys brass for .223. So from what I've heard, Hornadys brass is ready for loading right out of the box! I wanted to see what you all had to say about that statement... I grabbed about 10 cases and put them into my Wilson case gage and found that they all are consistent but the head sits about .005" above the top. In the directions the head should be flush or below the top step and above the lower step. Im not sure what I want to do here. Any suggestions? Here is a photo.
__________________
Lock and load, the zombies (democrats) are coming (to take your guns)! |
January 18, 2014, 07:10 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 24, 2008
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 1,476
|
First thing I do is put the cases in the gage head first. This is way to check for burrs that can impact gage readings.
Most people full size new brass. I only run the expander through the neck to make them round. That is after I check the shoulder datum measurement to the case head. I generally find the shoulder is already set back too much. If that is the case, full sizing them sizes the neck and then expands the neck giving it one additional work cycle. This work hardens the neck. Have you tried chambering them in your rifle? If they fit, they don't need sized.
__________________
NRA Benefactor Life member |
January 18, 2014, 09:18 PM | #3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 4, 2011
Location: LA (Greater Los Angeles Area)
Posts: 2,598
|
I have acquired Hornady 223 brass by purchasing loaded ammo, and shooting it. I have no complaints about reloading the Hornady brass. My point is I don't think you need to do anything out of the ordinary. I would full length resize first. Then measure case-length, and trim, if needed.
__________________
............ Last edited by Marco Califo; January 18, 2014 at 11:20 PM. |
January 18, 2014, 09:29 PM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 16, 2013
Location: Eastern NC
Posts: 3,047
|
I always trim and size new brass just so they are all the same.
Often the case mouths will be out of round, or the necks will have burrs, so I like to make them all consistant from the start I also deburr the flash holes
__________________
One shot, one kill |
January 18, 2014, 09:52 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 15, 2012
Location: Western New York
Posts: 466
|
Im going to be using these in my AR, so I'm not sure if I would be able to chamber these without tossing in a bullet.
__________________
Lock and load, the zombies (democrats) are coming (to take your guns)! |
January 18, 2014, 11:29 PM | #6 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 4, 2011
Location: LA (Greater Los Angeles Area)
Posts: 2,598
|
Quote:
Then you could make one dummy round: no primer, no powder, but seat a bullet and crimp (if you crimp). Then manually cycle that round into and then out of the chamber But, if you have resized then you should not have an issue chambering.
__________________
............ |
|
January 19, 2014, 12:28 AM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 15, 2012
Location: Western New York
Posts: 466
|
I took a fired case and put it in my case gage and found that they were almost at the same height as the new cases, so I just full resized them to be safe.
__________________
Lock and load, the zombies (democrats) are coming (to take your guns)! |
|
|