How safe is a S&W pre-10 with modern cartridges?

FLChinook · October 30, 2012, 01:16 AM

... assuming it's in excellent condition. I would think it should be OK for .38 Special ammo but not +P?

CajunBass · October 30, 2012, 03:06 AM

I would worry more about being abducted by aliens than I would about shooting ANY "modern" 38 Special ammo in ANY Model 10/M&P that didn't just flat out look like a total piece of crap. P+ ammo is just not that hot.

Personally I wopuldn't shoot P+ but that's only because I'm not going to waste the money to buy the stuff to punch a hole in a piece of paper.

hardworker · October 30, 2012, 04:58 AM

+P is only about a 10% increase in pressure. The most you'll do is wear the gun out faster, and empty your wallet faster.

carguychris · October 30, 2012, 08:58 AM

Although the S&W revolver manual advises against shooting any pre-model-numbered S&W K frame with .38Spl+P, IMHO the advisory is better tailored to two classes of guns in particular:

Pre-1930s guns without heat-treated cylinders. The steel used in these guns is noticeably softer and they WILL "shoot loose" faster than later models.
WWII production Victory models. S&W had documented quality control problems during this period.

I believe that postwar .38 M&Ps are certainly equal in quality to the post-1957 model-numbered guns, although I would hesitate to subject one to heavy wear, simply because it will be more difficult to repair or replace than a 1960s or later gun.

Taroman · October 30, 2012, 04:24 PM

Mine eats it up.
As they said, any non +P is fine.
This is Remington 158 LRN factory 50 rounds.

Slamfire · October 30, 2012, 07:01 PM

Shoot the standard loads in the older revolvers.

I have an older Rossi snubbie, much more modern steels than pre 60's S&W's, and yet when I talked to a factory gunsmith, he told me of blown up Rossies fired with +P rounds. If the thing was not designed to use +P, don't.

savit260 · October 30, 2012, 08:05 PM

Considering that Pre model 10 covers from 1899 to 1956... I think it might depend on how "Pre" we're talking about here.

I certainly wouldn't sweat it in a Post War Pre 10.
Might think twice in a real early M&P.

Elmer · October 30, 2012, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Considering that Pre model 10 covers from 1899 to 1956... I think it might depend on how "Pre" we're talking about here.

I certainly wouldn't sweat it in a Post War Pre 10.
Might think twice in a real early M&P

Exactly.

When I started in police work, most of the guns we issued were late 40's and 50's vintage, and they shot the +P we started issuing in the 70's just fine.

**Mike Irwin** · October 30, 2012, 09:11 PM

"Pre-1930s guns without heat-treated cylinders. The steel used in these guns is noticeably softer and they WILL "shoot loose" faster than later models."

I saw a circa 1910 Military and Police with a split cylinder, courtesy of an unknown quantity of +P rounds.

I won't even shoot jacketed bullets in my 1922 Military and Police.

"WWII production Victory models. S&W had documented quality control problems during this period."

I'd be FAR more worried about someone dropping a +P into one of the British contract revolvers that was "converted" to .38 Special by reaming the cylinder shoulder, leaving it oversized at the base.

As far as QC problems during the war, I've never heard it claimed that those issues went to either material quality or heat treating quality, only fit, finish, and assembly issues based on the speed required for wartime production and the relatively high number of new employees.

October 30, 2012, 01:16 AM	#1
FLChinook Senior Member Join Date: September 9, 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 378	How safe is a S&W pre-10 with modern cartridges? ... assuming it's in excellent condition. I would think it should be OK for .38 Special ammo but not +P?

October 30, 2012, 03:06 AM	#2
CajunBass Senior Member Join Date: May 6, 2005 Location: North Chesterfield, Virginia Posts: 4,767	I would worry more about being abducted by aliens than I would about shooting ANY "modern" 38 Special ammo in ANY Model 10/M&P that didn't just flat out look like a total piece of crap. P+ ammo is just not that hot. Personally I wopuldn't shoot P+ but that's only because I'm not going to waste the money to buy the stuff to punch a hole in a piece of paper. __________________ For God so loved the world, that He gave His only begotten Son, that whoever believes in Him should not perish, but have everlasting life. John 3:16 (NKJV) Last edited by CajunBass; October 30, 2012 at 03:15 AM.

October 30, 2012, 08:58 AM	#4
carguychris Senior Member Join Date: October 20, 2007 Location: Richardson, TX Posts: 7,523	Although the S&W revolver manual advises against shooting any pre-model-numbered S&W K frame with .38Spl+P, IMHO the advisory is better tailored to two classes of guns in particular: Pre-1930s guns without heat-treated cylinders. The steel used in these guns is noticeably softer and they WILL "shoot loose" faster than later models. WWII production Victory models. S&W had documented quality control problems during this period. I believe that postwar .38 M&Ps are certainly equal in quality to the post-1957 model-numbered guns, although I would hesitate to subject one to heavy wear, simply because it will be more difficult to repair or replace than a 1960s or later gun. __________________ "Smokey, this is not 'Nam. This is bowling. There are rules... MARK IT ZERO!!" - Walter Sobchak

October 30, 2012, 04:24 PM	#5
Taroman Senior Member Join Date: January 15, 2010 Posts: 166	Mine eats it up. As they said, any non +P is fine. This is Remington 158 LRN factory 50 rounds. __________________ -jwk- Si vis pacem, para bellum

October 30, 2012, 07:01 PM	#6
Slamfire Senior Member Join Date: May 27, 2007 Posts: 5,261	Shoot the standard loads in the older revolvers. I have an older Rossi snubbie, much more modern steels than pre 60's S&W's, and yet when I talked to a factory gunsmith, he told me of blown up Rossies fired with +P rounds. If the thing was not designed to use +P, don't. __________________ If I'm not shooting, I'm reloading.

October 30, 2012, 04:58 AM	#3
hardworker Senior Member Join Date: August 4, 2010 Posts: 820	+P is only about a 10% increase in pressure. The most you'll do is wear the gun out faster, and empty your wallet faster.

October 30, 2012, 08:05 PM	#7
savit260 Senior Member Join Date: January 2, 2006 Posts: 702	Considering that Pre model 10 covers from 1899 to 1956... I think it might depend on how "Pre" we're talking about here. I certainly wouldn't sweat it in a Post War Pre 10. Might think twice in a real early M&P.

October 30, 2012, 09:11 PM	#9
Mike Irwin Staff Join Date: April 13, 2000 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 41,390	"Pre-1930s guns without heat-treated cylinders. The steel used in these guns is noticeably softer and they WILL "shoot loose" faster than later models." I saw a circa 1910 Military and Police with a split cylinder, courtesy of an unknown quantity of +P rounds. I won't even shoot jacketed bullets in my 1922 Military and Police. "WWII production Victory models. S&W had documented quality control problems during this period." I'd be FAR more worried about someone dropping a +P into one of the British contract revolvers that was "converted" to .38 Special by reaming the cylinder shoulder, leaving it oversized at the base. As far as QC problems during the war, I've never heard it claimed that those issues went to either material quality or heat treating quality, only fit, finish, and assembly issues based on the speed required for wartime production and the relatively high number of new employees. __________________ "The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.