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September 10, 2010, 10:34 AM | #26 |
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Join Date: October 4, 2008
Location: WI
Posts: 3,656
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Thanks for all the informative replies about the tool and dealing with rust on bluing!
Now my SR9 is my only stainless gun... Any suggestions about how to buff out scratches on that since its not really a 'finish' but the actual metal? I'm going to try and post pictures of it later.
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E-Shock rounds are engineered to expend maximum energy into soft targets, turning the density mass into an expanding rotational cone of NyTrilium matrix particles, causing neurological collapse to the central nervous system.- Yeah I can do that. I guarantee you will know it if a bicyclist hits your house going 1000 mph. -Smaug |
September 10, 2010, 04:42 PM | #27 | |
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Join Date: June 24, 2008
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September 10, 2010, 09:03 PM | #28 |
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Join Date: January 2, 2009
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The "Frontier" type pads shown above are not "coarse" (not that anyone claimed that they are).
It has been explained to me that these type of pads actually make very little contact with the gun surface when rubbed upon it. What seems to happen is that the "flats" of the pads lie mostly parallel to the gun surface, and therefore the contact patch is spread out over a larger area, thereby minimizing abrasive "points" of contact. For rust removal, I soaked the rust spots for a lengthy period in Kroil. I wiped much of the rust prior to "scrubbing", but having an oiled surface, rubbed with the pads, wiped frequently and re-oiled, left no detectable scratches. I did expect there to be scratches from the rubbing, so I was gentle at the start. The results were quite remarkable. The point being made about rust being abrasive seems to be a good one, however rubbing the surface without a lubricant sounds a bit frightening. Some have advocated using copper "Chore Boy" pads, because the copper will not leave iron oxide. Monty |
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