1911 shortened and radius slide stop pin technique

cuba · April 2, 2010, 06:16 PM

1911 shortened and radius slide stop pin technique

When enhancing your 1911 with a countersink slide stop pin most people find that producing a perfect radius on the pins end is very difficult, but I have found a technique that simplifies the process.

You need to under stand that it is critical not to change the remaining diameter of the pin or frames shaft, also you don’t want to over heat the pin and change the tensile strength of the pin.

First remove the slide from the frame and slip the stop pin through the hole on the frame, with a sharpie marker shade all the protruding section of the pin, if you have a black pistol use a silver color sharpie.

Now take the pin out and on a grinding wheel start to grind the tip of the pin applying light pressure so as not to over heat the pin, as you start getting to the end of the marked portion check it with the frame, the idea hear is to leave the pin slightly longer then flush about 1/32” to 3/64” because you will need this extra material once you start to rough shape the radius on the grinding wheel, I would wrap a piece of masking tape about 3/16” below the end of the pin to assure that I don’t change any of the remaining diameter of the pin. Start rotating the pin around the grinding wheel in a continuous motion making sure not to grind where you’ve taped, when you have roughly radius the point of the pin you will end up with a slight point, which later on you will remove, that’s why you left the pin slightly longer to begin with.

Third you will need a 7/32” or 3/16” hex head electric screw driver tip and a small piece ¾” x ¾”of plumber’s emery cloth. Install the 7/32” or 3/16” driver tip to a hand held drill and place the piece of emery cloth on top of the driver and hold it down with your rough slide stop pin and run the drill at a high rpm while pushing the stop pin down into the driver, it works like an electric pencil sharpener and will produce a perfect polished radius and while applying pressure and pushing the stop pin down, will remove the extra length that was left slightly longer and pointed.
Cuba

hoghunting · April 2, 2010, 06:54 PM

Was your slide stop pin sliding out of place because it was too long? I've used 1911s for 25 years and some of those years were in competition, and never had a need to shorten the pins or bevel the pin hole.

Heavy D · April 2, 2010, 08:51 PM

It's primarily a cosmetic modification since you would need it to be really loose to displace it with the nub that sticks out from the factory.

April 2, 2010, 06:16 PM	#1
cuba Member Join Date: January 2, 2010 Location: Lake Placid Florida Posts: 90	1911 shortened and radius slide stop pin technique 1911 shortened and radius slide stop pin technique When enhancing your 1911 with a countersink slide stop pin most people find that producing a perfect radius on the pins end is very difficult, but I have found a technique that simplifies the process. You need to under stand that it is critical not to change the remaining diameter of the pin or frames shaft, also you don’t want to over heat the pin and change the tensile strength of the pin. First remove the slide from the frame and slip the stop pin through the hole on the frame, with a sharpie marker shade all the protruding section of the pin, if you have a black pistol use a silver color sharpie. Now take the pin out and on a grinding wheel start to grind the tip of the pin applying light pressure so as not to over heat the pin, as you start getting to the end of the marked portion check it with the frame, the idea hear is to leave the pin slightly longer then flush about 1/32” to 3/64” because you will need this extra material once you start to rough shape the radius on the grinding wheel, I would wrap a piece of masking tape about 3/16” below the end of the pin to assure that I don’t change any of the remaining diameter of the pin. Start rotating the pin around the grinding wheel in a continuous motion making sure not to grind where you’ve taped, when you have roughly radius the point of the pin you will end up with a slight point, which later on you will remove, that’s why you left the pin slightly longer to begin with. Third you will need a 7/32” or 3/16” hex head electric screw driver tip and a small piece ¾” x ¾”of plumber’s emery cloth. Install the 7/32” or 3/16” driver tip to a hand held drill and place the piece of emery cloth on top of the driver and hold it down with your rough slide stop pin and run the drill at a high rpm while pushing the stop pin down into the driver, it works like an electric pencil sharpener and will produce a perfect polished radius and while applying pressure and pushing the stop pin down, will remove the extra length that was left slightly longer and pointed. Cuba

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April 2, 2010, 06:54 PM	#2
hoghunting Senior Member Join Date: March 27, 2006 Posts: 1,559	Was your slide stop pin sliding out of place because it was too long? I've used 1911s for 25 years and some of those years were in competition, and never had a need to shorten the pins or bevel the pin hole.

April 2, 2010, 08:51 PM	#3
Heavy D Junior Member Join Date: January 6, 2010 Posts: 3	It's primarily a cosmetic modification since you would need it to be really loose to displace it with the nub that sticks out from the factory.