204 handload won't fit in barrel

[hazfam2]

Hey, I had the same problem with my first 204 loads.I was loading once fired hornady cases. Out of 20, 5 would'nt chamber.I PULLED THE BULLETS and resized the cases and then they were fine. When I resized them i sized and then turned the case 90 degrees and hit it again.I shoot a H&R single shot and now when I size I have the gun right there and I chamber every case after sizing and have'nt had that problem again. I really doubt if you are seating under 2.270 that your bullet is touching the lands.I seat at 2.260 and I am still almost .200 away from the land. this is nornal according to H&R tech's. To check, seat a bullet in a case that you know will chamber at about 2.300 and see if it will chamber. I'll bet it will. As far as you having to hold the bullet when going into the die, make sure you have a good chamfer on the inside of the case mouth, set the bullet on the case (it does'nt matter if it lays to the side, your die will line everything up) You should'nt have to hold the bullet. don"t try to crimp,just seat to desired depth.

[cornbush]

Lets just say over the years I have "recycled" alot of brass because I got in a hurry, got distracted, tried to skip a step, or the biggest one- didn't read the instructions all the way through on a new piece of equipment.

If a few cases are all you lose you're doin dam good
Most of the lessons I have learned were from similar situations, this forum is great when you need a question answered.

[dumbodave]

I once had a problem with a new, unfired bunch of Remington brass in 7mm Rem Mag. No matter what I tried to do, I couldn't get the loaded rounds to chamber properly without using too much force. Turned out to be necks that were too thick for my rifle. I got a Forrester neck turner and fixed the problem. Now it is just one more step to do with all new brass.

[Powderman]

I'd say it was done while seating the bullet. Seating die to deep, over crimped, and bulged the shoulder. I've done it a time or two and the reason I use a lee taper crimp die for .308 and .306.

And, herein lies your problem.

First, there should be no need to crimp a cartridge that is being fired in a bolt action rifle.

After sizing, clean the lube from the case; check and clean the primer pocket as needed. Now, measure your case length and trim to the proper measurements as noted in the cartridge data.

ALWAYS chamfer and deburr the case mouths. You don't have to put a knife-edged bevel on it--just enough to break the edge. You want the bullet to start smoothly. Your brass shavings as noted earlier come from seating the bullets into a case mouth that is not prepared for it.

Adjust your seater like this: Insert a prepped case into the shellholder. Now, raise the ram fully and get your seater die. BACK OUT THE SEATING STEM ALL THE WAY. Now, with the ram still raised, screw in the seater die, until you feel the case mouth come into contact with the crimping shoulder.

When this happens, back the die up 1/2 turn, and set the lock ring tightly.

Charge the case with your chosen load. Now, put a bullet on the case, and raise it slowly into the die. At this time, the seater stem should NOT be contacting the bullet. If you feel the bullet start into the case, STOP. Back out the seater stem some more until you can fully raise the case into the die.

Once the charged case with the bullet on the case mouth is all the way into the die, screw down the seater stem until you feel it come into contact with the bullet. STOP.

Lower the ram and withdraw the case and the bullet. Screw the seater stem in about 1/4 turn. Now, insert bullet and case into the die slowly. You should feel the bullet start into the case.

Lower the ram and measure the loaded round. Screw in the seater stem 1/4 turn, and continue to seat the bullet until you reach the desired OAL. Once that happens, insert the loaded round into the press, raise the handle fully, and make sure the seater is in firm contact. Now, tighten the lock nut. Presto! You are in business.

When you find a load and bullet combo that you like, here's a shortcut: Get one good case; size, deprime and trim as needed. Do NOT re-prime the cartridge, nor charge it with powder. Seat a bullet to the proper OAL; then put a mark (magic marker) on the case and put it in with your reloading kit.

This will be your set-up round. Simply insert it into the press, raise it into the seater die with the stem unscrewed, and then screw the stem down to make firm contact with the seated bullet. Lock the stem right there.

Hope this all helps. Good luck!

[Qtiphky]

I have the same problem every now and again with my 204 shells. I have been reloading for a couple of years now and this seems to be the only caliber I have this problem with. I think it is from not getting the chamfer right and not getting the bullet seated straight. Maybe one out of every 50 I load has the bulge above the shoulder of the shell. No good, don't even think about chambering them. Pull the bullet and start over. I haven't tried to reuse the brass as I don't think it is worth the possible risks. My opinion.

[uncyboo]

so, should i back off the main die a bit more than the manual suggests (manual: touch shell holder, then back off 1 full turn)?

No, you should do this, especially the part about setting up the seating die....

And, herein lies your problem.

First, there should be no need to crimp a cartridge that is being fired in a bolt action rifle.

After sizing, clean the lube from the case; check and clean the primer pocket as needed. Now, measure your case length and trim to the proper measurements as noted in the cartridge data.

ALWAYS chamfer and deburr the case mouths. You don't have to put a knife-edged bevel on it--just enough to break the edge. You want the bullet to start smoothly. Your brass shavings as noted earlier come from seating the bullets into a case mouth that is not prepared for it.

Adjust your seater like this: Insert a prepped case into the shellholder. Now, raise the ram fully and get your seater die. BACK OUT THE SEATING STEM ALL THE WAY. Now, with the ram still raised, screw in the seater die, until you feel the case mouth come into contact with the crimping shoulder.

When this happens, back the die up 1/2 turn, and set the lock ring tightly.

Charge the case with your chosen load. Now, put a bullet on the case, and raise it slowly into the die. At this time, the seater stem should NOT be contacting the bullet. If you feel the bullet start into the case, STOP. Back out the seater stem some more until you can fully raise the case into the die.

Once the charged case with the bullet on the case mouth is all the way into the die, screw down the seater stem until you feel it come into contact with the bullet. STOP.

Lower the ram and withdraw the case and the bullet. Screw the seater stem in about 1/4 turn. Now, insert bullet and case into the die slowly. You should feel the bullet start into the case.

Lower the ram and measure the loaded round. Screw in the seater stem 1/4 turn, and continue to seat the bullet until you reach the desired OAL. Once that happens, insert the loaded round into the press, raise the handle fully, and make sure the seater is in firm contact. Now, tighten the lock nut. Presto! You are in business.

When you find a load and bullet combo that you like, here's a shortcut: Get one good case; size, deprime and trim as needed. Do NOT re-prime the cartridge, nor charge it with powder. Seat a bullet to the proper OAL; then put a mark (magic marker) on the case and put it in with your reloading kit.

This will be your set-up round. Simply insert it into the press, raise it into the seater die with the stem unscrewed, and then screw the stem down to make firm contact with the seated bullet. Lock the stem right there.

[HighBoard]

uncyboo & powderman:
you have nailed it!!

obviously, i know very, very little about reloading.
This is exactly what my problem is. I guess a bullet puller on my menu now.

i heard people mention collet(?) or something else.
what type of puller should I get?

i have no idea what a collet vs the other type is.
help?

it's truly amazing the help this forum provides.

[langenc]

"sized w/ RCBS dies."


Shoulder may need pushing back.

Get yourselves a Wilson case gage for all calibers loaded and check brass after sizing-always.

When sizing and the INSIDE of the case neck is not lubed, the expanded can stretch the neck on its' way out. Case (shell) will be hell to close the bolt on. As noted crimping can bulge some stuff. I dont crimp rifle ammo. Wilson gage would show any problem after the first round was finished. Could also check in chamber(gun) but that is more dangerous than the gage.

[bow shot]

Here's lands:

http://thefiringline.com/forums/show...php?t=320605):

Here's a good troubleshooting path. If you don't narrow down the possibilities, you'll drive yourself wacky:

If you have a 1x fired brass case:

1) Chamber it: did it go in without any trouble?
2) now just size it, and chamber it again: any trouble?
3) now lightly chamfer the case mouth
4) Chamber and extract again: any trouble?
5) now seat the bullet (no primer or powder): any trouble?

When "yes" is the answer, you've found your error point and can go zero-in from there.

I'd bet at this point though, that your cases "grew" when you sized (oh yes sir, they can grow a LOT with full length sizing), and now your die(s) bear down on the case mouth.

The .204 maximum case length is 1.850". If you are more than that, then...

[bow shot]

I'm a retard. Sorry, I see you've found the solution well before I posted... sorry 'bout that.

About lube: don't blow it, be sure to use it inside and out. You'll have to dabble to find out the materials and method you prefer. Prepare for AGONY if you try to be the one guy in the universe that "doesn't need to do this".

You can always start out a bit too heavy, and work to less and less lube. But don't try it the other way around, Aaaaaaiiiiiiiiiiieeeeeeee!!!

I very lightly roll mine (.204 and 6.5x55) on an RCBS pad (rcbs lube) and give the case mouth a gentle twist on the pad when I full length size.

[uncyboo]

i heard people mention collet(?) or something else.
what type of puller should I get?

i have no idea what a collet vs the other type is.
help?

A collet type bullet puller works like a die, screws into your press. Raise the ram so the cartridge enters the die, and when tightened down, an appropriate sized collet grips the bullet, and the up-stroke on the press lowers the case from the grip the collet has on the bullet.

The other type is an inertia puller, look kinda like a hammer. Cartridge is placed in the head and gripped by a shell holder of sorts. Bullet end of "hammer" is struck on a hard surface. The inertia of the bullet coming to a sudden stop pulls it out of the case. The powder and bullet is contained in the head of the "hammer".