Trigger Problem - Help!!!

rockyl686 · June 13, 2006, 06:07 PM

Hello everyone,

Sorry for my first post to be one asking for help. But I need some.

I bought a 686 (no lock)

, used and everything seemed fine at the pawn shop. But when I got it home and dryfired it about 100 times (with snap caps) and the trigger seems to stick at the very begining of the pull. Like there is somebody pulling in the other direction and then they let go. It runs fine after that, through the rest of the length of the trigger pull.

I called S&W and they wanted me to send it to them. The shipping alone, is $40 and they didn't know how much more on top of that.

I'd like to know if anybody out there has any idea what the problem might be. Before I spend an unknow amount sending it to S&W. Or at the very least can somebody tell me if they do quality work, and ease my fears.

Thank you all very much.

pwelsh4hd · June 13, 2006, 06:32 PM

S&W has excellent customer service and smithing. However, your issue does not appear to complicated, and I would try a reputable local smithy first. Open up your local yellow book (you could always look for a smithy in there cold, but) look for a local gun-club or range...contact them for leads on a trusted smithy in your area. You might also post your location here, perhaps another member from your area might be able to point you in the right direction.

rockyl686 · June 14, 2006, 12:10 AM

Thank You btw I Live In Kansas

scgunsmith · June 14, 2006, 09:27 AM

sounds like the star on the cylinder(the part that rotates the cylinder) may have some small burrs on it.

bdcc11 · June 14, 2006, 09:42 AM

Could also be the cylinder stop. The 1st thing the trigger has to do is release the cylinder so it can turn. Could be some crud in there making it hard to move or it just may need a very small amount of stoning.
My 686 did the same thing. If it is the star it would probably not be every trigger pull.
Try opening the cylinder and holding the cylinder release all the way back on the gun, then squeeze the trigger with the cylinder open and see if you still have the problem.

rockyl686 · June 14, 2006, 02:10 PM

Thanks Everone. I am At Work Now, But I Will Try Your Advice As Soon As I Can Get Home.

rockyl686 · June 14, 2006, 07:01 PM

Well, back from work.

The Cylinder star seemed OK as best as I could tell with my fingernail. There didn't seem to be any rough spots.

I tried opening the cylinder and pushing the stop back. Cycled it and the problem was still there, but not quite as bad. So I took the side plate off. After it was off, I tried cycling it again. The problem seemed to dissapear. So I put the side plate back on and it started doing it again.

So I opened it again, lightly cleaned the internals, put it back together. The problems still there.

I don't think that it's dirt or any grime. If it needs stoning, I'm hesitent to do that, because I bought it used and don't know the history. So I might take to much off.

One thing I did notice while cycling it with the plate off. The rebound slide sometimes worked it's way sideways, but not all the time. I also found a wear mark on the hammer and I'm not sure it's not slightly bent.

but I'm not sure.

I guess mabe I have to send it to S&W.

bdcc11 · June 14, 2006, 08:04 PM

If you know any good revolver shooters in your area you can ask them what they think. Sending it to Smith & Wesson is not a bad idea if you can't easily identify the problem. They can put everything back to spec.

rockyl686 · June 14, 2006, 09:00 PM

Thanks to everyone for their help.

Since my last post, I have taken it apart

yet again. Cleaned it a little more, put it back togather and now it seems to be working fine.

I looked very hard for any dirt or grime that might have been the problem, but I did'nt see any. However, when I did put it back togather I noticed that when my finger depresses the trigger. When I let off of it to put it back at rest the hammer moves slightly to the left, and may be touching the frame and causeing some drag. But I'm not really sure that that is the problem because it seems to be working all right now. Even still, I wansn't able to identify what was wrong in the first place

. I have to go to Wichita KS tommorrow. Does anyone know of a good revolver smith in that area. I'm afraid I just don't know that many good revolver shooters. As I've only been into shooting for about a year, and then mostly autos.

Thanks again everyone, I'll try to let you all know how it goes.

armabill · June 15, 2006, 12:21 PM

Maybe the internals are rubbing on the side plate causing the drag effect.

rockyl686 · June 30, 2006, 12:27 AM

well since last i left, it worked good for about 200 rounds of sellier & bellot. fmj 158 gr 357 mag then it all went to hell

the trigger now sticks before Cylinder stop even goes down. and the Cylinder started to get sloppier at the yoke.
i guess my eye for used revolvers is no good

and i like this gun a lot to so off to S&w it go's.
I will give you all an update as soon as i get it back frum them. i will ship next weak. man am i depressed

June 13, 2006, 06:07 PM	#1
rockyl686 Member Join Date: June 8, 2006 Posts: 61	Trigger Problem - Help!!! Hello everyone, Sorry for my first post to be one asking for help. But I need some. I bought a 686 (no lock) , used and everything seemed fine at the pawn shop. But when I got it home and dryfired it about 100 times (with snap caps) and the trigger seems to stick at the very begining of the pull. Like there is somebody pulling in the other direction and then they let go. It runs fine after that, through the rest of the length of the trigger pull. I called S&W and they wanted me to send it to them. The shipping alone, is $40 and they didn't know how much more on top of that. I'd like to know if anybody out there has any idea what the problem might be. Before I spend an unknow amount sending it to S&W. Or at the very least can somebody tell me if they do quality work, and ease my fears. Thank you all very much.

June 14, 2006, 09:27 AM	#4
scgunsmith Member Join Date: December 21, 2005 Location: Ridgeland SC (aka State of Confusion) Posts: 58	sounds like the star on the cylinder(the part that rotates the cylinder) may have some small burrs on it. __________________ Will work for guns or parts Full Time Gunsmith, Part time dog house tenant Http://www.lowcountry-gunsmith.com

June 14, 2006, 09:42 AM	#5
bdcc11 Member Join Date: February 7, 2006 Location: La Mesa, CA Posts: 30	Could also be the cylinder stop. The 1st thing the trigger has to do is release the cylinder so it can turn. Could be some crud in there making it hard to move or it just may need a very small amount of stoning. My 686 did the same thing. If it is the star it would probably not be every trigger pull. Try opening the cylinder and holding the cylinder release all the way back on the gun, then squeeze the trigger with the cylinder open and see if you still have the problem. Last edited by bdcc11; June 14, 2006 at 10:58 AM.

June 13, 2006, 06:32 PM	#2
pwelsh4hd Senior Member Join Date: May 18, 2005 Location: Idaho Posts: 146	S&W has excellent customer service and smithing. However, your issue does not appear to complicated, and I would try a reputable local smithy first. Open up your local yellow book (you could always look for a smithy in there cold, but) look for a local gun-club or range...contact them for leads on a trusted smithy in your area. You might also post your location here, perhaps another member from your area might be able to point you in the right direction.

June 14, 2006, 12:10 AM	#3
rockyl686 Member Join Date: June 8, 2006 Posts: 61	Thank You btw I Live In Kansas

June 14, 2006, 02:10 PM	#6
rockyl686 Member Join Date: June 8, 2006 Posts: 61	Thanks Everone. I am At Work Now, But I Will Try Your Advice As Soon As I Can Get Home.

June 14, 2006, 07:01 PM	#7
rockyl686 Member Join Date: June 8, 2006 Posts: 61	Well, back from work. The Cylinder star seemed OK as best as I could tell with my fingernail. There didn't seem to be any rough spots. I tried opening the cylinder and pushing the stop back. Cycled it and the problem was still there, but not quite as bad. So I took the side plate off. After it was off, I tried cycling it again. The problem seemed to dissapear. So I put the side plate back on and it started doing it again. So I opened it again, lightly cleaned the internals, put it back together. The problems still there. I don't think that it's dirt or any grime. If it needs stoning, I'm hesitent to do that, because I bought it used and don't know the history. So I might take to much off. One thing I did notice while cycling it with the plate off. The rebound slide sometimes worked it's way sideways, but not all the time. I also found a wear mark on the hammer and I'm not sure it's not slightly bent. but I'm not sure. I guess mabe I have to send it to S&W.

June 14, 2006, 08:04 PM	#8
bdcc11 Member Join Date: February 7, 2006 Location: La Mesa, CA Posts: 30	If you know any good revolver shooters in your area you can ask them what they think. Sending it to Smith & Wesson is not a bad idea if you can't easily identify the problem. They can put everything back to spec.

June 14, 2006, 09:00 PM	#9
rockyl686 Member Join Date: June 8, 2006 Posts: 61	Thanks to everyone for their help. Since my last post, I have taken it apart yet again. Cleaned it a little more, put it back togather and now it seems to be working fine. I looked very hard for any dirt or grime that might have been the problem, but I did'nt see any. However, when I did put it back togather I noticed that when my finger depresses the trigger. When I let off of it to put it back at rest the hammer moves slightly to the left, and may be touching the frame and causeing some drag. But I'm not really sure that that is the problem because it seems to be working all right now. Even still, I wansn't able to identify what was wrong in the first place . I have to go to Wichita KS tommorrow. Does anyone know of a good revolver smith in that area. I'm afraid I just don't know that many good revolver shooters. As I've only been into shooting for about a year, and then mostly autos. Thanks again everyone, I'll try to let you all know how it goes.

June 15, 2006, 12:21 PM	#10
armabill Senior Member Join Date: August 16, 2001 Location: Glenolden, Pa. USA Posts: 250	Maybe the internals are rubbing on the side plate causing the drag effect.

June 30, 2006, 12:27 AM	#11
rockyl686 Member Join Date: June 8, 2006 Posts: 61	well since last i left, it worked good for about 200 rounds of sellier & bellot. fmj 158 gr 357 mag then it all went to hell the trigger now sticks before Cylinder stop even goes down. and the Cylinder started to get sloppier at the yoke. i guess my eye for used revolvers is no good and i like this gun a lot to so off to S&w it go's. I will give you all an update as soon as i get it back frum them. i will ship next weak. man am i depressed