I'm betting this is my problem

bushmaster65 · October 21, 2012, 01:15 AM

I thought my walker and, to a lesser extent, my Dragoon were having problems with cylinder advance when cocking, because of Caps hanging up.
Today at the range my walker started locking up with EVERY shot fired. I looked closely after every shot to see if there were any debris from the caps and there was zero. If I applied just a little turn pressure to the cylinder before cocking, it worked fine. After running out the charges and cycling the cylinder at half cock she would work like a charm when cocking. But as soon as I fired a shot, she would lock up. So tonight I gutted her for the first time. Besides 2 spent caps, the condition the hand was in was surprising. Ive had this weapon since August and have put maybe 60 rnds through her. Looks like I'm gonna have to send her to a smith and get her fixed right the first time. Got a lead on a CASS smith in the Ft. Worth area. Any more in the Central Texas area?
PS- These are the pics I took tonight.

brazosdave · October 21, 2012, 07:34 AM

man, what was that thing rubbing against? Is it something you can smooth down with a dremel? Most of the smiths around here tend to be the ar/semi auto pistol kind of guys, maybe Gatesville?

bushmaster65 · October 21, 2012, 11:38 AM

The "well" that the hand travels in has a moderate amount of fine, metal shavings cast off from this rubbing that's going on. so it's in there were I don't have small enough tools for finish work. The ratchet teeth on the cylinder are also beginning to show bare metal in the same places. ( I think this is wear caused by trying to force the cylinder to move via forcing the hammer.). So she's down for the count right now but there is a specialist up in Ft. Worth that I'm leaning heavily towards.

Fingers McGee · October 21, 2012, 10:54 PM

Try these how to articles. They may be using a Pietta '51 Navy; but, the principles and processes apply to any colt clone.

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles...a_Part_One.pdf

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles...a_Part_Two.pdf

arcticap · October 21, 2012, 11:03 PM

Here's a reputable home based C&B gunsmith in central Texas.
He has an FFL and is also a BP loving cowboy shooter.

http://www.cartridgeconversion.com/

Quote:

Take a load off and peruse the site here. If you have questions send me an email [email protected] or give me a call, 9 AM to 9 PM Central (TEXAS) Standard Time, (817) 219-2966

Thanks!
Gary

hoof hearted · October 21, 2012, 11:17 PM

Well articap.........HOME BASED only because I own all the property around here

If I lived in the city I would have to actually drive to a shop somewhere........

OK, Here goes.......

Those pics are indicative of the same stacking issue that I just addressed here:
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=503829

The side of the bolt (while a terrible job) is actually supposed to look like that! What I mean is that relieving that edge actually eliminates some issues with it rubbing against the "port" where it protudes out of the window as the gun is cocked. The buggered tip is indicative of the cylinder binding (for some reason) as it is cocked, probably multiple things here but be sure that you are not pushing the wedge in too far and that you have at least the same amount of forward and backward play with the Kirst as you did with the stock cylinder.
The metal you have in the channel is probably from the tip of the hand and or the ratchet.

I would not continue to shoot this.

I can help you out and I am just North of Glen Rose TX about an hour West of Ft Worth.

Reagrds, Gary

Rigmarol · October 23, 2012, 04:53 PM

I'm learning a lot following you around from post to post Gary!
Thanks!

October 21, 2012, 01:15 AM	#1
bushmaster65 Senior Member Join Date: July 11, 2012 Location: Central Texas Posts: 140	I'm betting this is my problem I thought my walker and, to a lesser extent, my Dragoon were having problems with cylinder advance when cocking, because of Caps hanging up. Today at the range my walker started locking up with EVERY shot fired. I looked closely after every shot to see if there were any debris from the caps and there was zero. If I applied just a little turn pressure to the cylinder before cocking, it worked fine. After running out the charges and cycling the cylinder at half cock she would work like a charm when cocking. But as soon as I fired a shot, she would lock up. So tonight I gutted her for the first time. Besides 2 spent caps, the condition the hand was in was surprising. Ive had this weapon since August and have put maybe 60 rnds through her. Looks like I'm gonna have to send her to a smith and get her fixed right the first time. Got a lead on a CASS smith in the Ft. Worth area. Any more in the Central Texas area? PS- These are the pics I took tonight.

October 21, 2012, 07:34 AM	#2
brazosdave Senior Member Join Date: September 7, 2012 Location: Crockett, Texas Posts: 363	man, what was that thing rubbing against? Is it something you can smooth down with a dremel? Most of the smiths around here tend to be the ar/semi auto pistol kind of guys, maybe Gatesville? __________________ "I'm your huckleberry, it's just my game"

October 21, 2012, 10:54 PM	#4
Fingers McGee Senior Member Join Date: March 19, 2008 Location: High & Dry in Missouri Ozarks Posts: 2,113	Try these how to articles. They may be using a Pietta '51 Navy; but, the principles and processes apply to any colt clone. http://www.theopenrange.net/articles...a_Part_One.pdf http://www.theopenrange.net/articles...a_Part_Two.pdf __________________ Fingers (Show Me MO smoke) McGee - AKA Man of Many Colts - Alter ego of Diabolical Ken; SASS Regulator 28564-L-TG; Rangemaster and stage writer extraordinaire; Frontiersman, Pistoleer, NRA Endowment Life, NMLRA, SAF, CCRKBA, STORM 327, SV115; Charter member, Central Ozarks Western Shooters Cynic: A blackguard whose faulty vision see things as they are, not as they should be. Ambrose Bierce

October 21, 2012, 11:17 PM	#6
hoof hearted Member Join Date: December 21, 2011 Location: Texas Posts: 61	Well articap.........HOME BASED only because I own all the property around here If I lived in the city I would have to actually drive to a shop somewhere........ OK, Here goes....... Those pics are indicative of the same stacking issue that I just addressed here: http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=503829 The side of the bolt (while a terrible job) is actually supposed to look like that! What I mean is that relieving that edge actually eliminates some issues with it rubbing against the "port" where it protudes out of the window as the gun is cocked. The buggered tip is indicative of the cylinder binding (for some reason) as it is cocked, probably multiple things here but be sure that you are not pushing the wedge in too far and that you have at least the same amount of forward and backward play with the Kirst as you did with the stock cylinder. The metal you have in the channel is probably from the tip of the hand and or the ratchet. I would not continue to shoot this. I can help you out and I am just North of Glen Rose TX about an hour West of Ft Worth. Reagrds, Gary __________________ http://www.cartridgeconversion.com https://www.facebook.com/cartridgeconversion/ https://www.facebook.com/thuerconversion/

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October 21, 2012, 11:38 AM	#3
bushmaster65 Senior Member Join Date: July 11, 2012 Location: Central Texas Posts: 140	The "well" that the hand travels in has a moderate amount of fine, metal shavings cast off from this rubbing that's going on. so it's in there were I don't have small enough tools for finish work. The ratchet teeth on the cylinder are also beginning to show bare metal in the same places. ( I think this is wear caused by trying to force the cylinder to move via forcing the hammer.). So she's down for the count right now but there is a specialist up in Ft. Worth that I'm leaning heavily towards.

October 23, 2012, 04:53 PM	#7
Rigmarol Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2005 Location: Southern California Posts: 344	I'm learning a lot following you around from post to post Gary! Thanks!