Jammed Model 10 HELP!

shafter · January 29, 2012, 08:11 PM

Here's the problem. I had been carrying my Smith & Wesson Model 10-5 and unholstered and unloaded it when I got home. I closed the cylinder and started wiping it down with a oily rag. However, when I went to open the cylinder I found out that it won't open. The gun seems to be functioning like normal, the cylinder rotates when I pull the trigger or cock the hammer. The cylinder latch feels normal when I depress it. The cylinder refuses to open.

Any idea what is wrong? Is it a difficult fix? Thanks for the advice.

Scharfschuetzer · January 29, 2012, 08:17 PM

I'd bet that your ejector rod has unscrewed to the point that it cannot clear the front locking bolt.

The extractor rod uses a left hand thread to preclude that, but it does anyway. Over the years I have made it a habit to check its tightness before closing a cylinder on an S&W revolver.

Brownells sells a special device to tighten the ejector rod. It is a knurled aluminium donut looking tool that clamps to the rod.

You see many S&Ws where a previous owner has used pliers to tighten the rod and that usually leaves tell tale marks or it flattens the checkering at the front end of the rod.

As your revolver does not have an extractor rod shroud, you might be able to tighten it enough with your fingers to allow it to disengage from the front locking bolt. Remember that its thread is opposite most threads so turn it counter clockwise to tighten it.

mete · January 29, 2012, 08:17 PM

Extractor rod has unscrewed or you have a grain or two of unburned poweder under the extractor star.

ScottRiqui · January 29, 2012, 08:22 PM

+1 on the ejector rod. I have a 1920s-era pre-Model 10 that I shoot frequently, and that's the only problem it gives me - after a few dozen rounds, the rod will back out enough that I can't open the cylinder. I need to put some blue Loctite on it, but haven't gotten around to it.

shafter · January 29, 2012, 08:29 PM

THANKS!!!! Problem solved

You guys were right, the ejector rod needed adjustment. This forum is awesome

Blind Dog Jake · January 29, 2012, 08:40 PM

You can use a clothes pin to tighten the ejector rod. Just clip it on the knurled end of ejector rod and use a pair of plires to tighten the rod.

It works great.

Scharfschuetzer · January 29, 2012, 09:01 PM

Good idea Blind Dog.

For those doing so, place empty cases in your chambers to support the star when you tighten down on the rod.

Crazy88Fingers · January 29, 2012, 10:25 PM

If you feel up to it you may want to take that cylinder apart for a good cleaning and oiling. And when you put it back together spread a drop of blue loc-tite on the ejector rod threads to keep it from shaking loose again.

skidder · January 29, 2012, 11:17 PM

I recently used a leather strap with channel locks.

GM2 · January 30, 2012, 06:03 AM

Quote:

I recently used a leather strap with channel locks

.
Ditto on that Skidder. I also use strips of leather cut from an old discarded belt to guard pliers from scaring metal parts. works well in Vise Jaws as well.

madcratebuilder · January 30, 2012, 08:53 AM

If you own more than a few $500 S&W revolvers then the $15 ejector rod tool is a very wise investment. You can then properly disassemble and reassemble the revolver and no need for any thread locking compound. I used the DIY tools for years but after just one slip the correct tool seemed much wiser.

January 29, 2012, 08:11 PM	#1
shafter Senior Member Join Date: December 23, 2009 Posts: 1,624	Jammed Model 10 HELP! Here's the problem. I had been carrying my Smith & Wesson Model 10-5 and unholstered and unloaded it when I got home. I closed the cylinder and started wiping it down with a oily rag. However, when I went to open the cylinder I found out that it won't open. The gun seems to be functioning like normal, the cylinder rotates when I pull the trigger or cock the hammer. The cylinder latch feels normal when I depress it. The cylinder refuses to open. Any idea what is wrong? Is it a difficult fix? Thanks for the advice.

January 29, 2012, 08:17 PM	#2
Scharfschuetzer Senior Member Join Date: January 28, 2012 Location: Puget Sound Posts: 293	I'd bet that your ejector rod has unscrewed to the point that it cannot clear the front locking bolt. The extractor rod uses a left hand thread to preclude that, but it does anyway. Over the years I have made it a habit to check its tightness before closing a cylinder on an S&W revolver. Brownells sells a special device to tighten the ejector rod. It is a knurled aluminium donut looking tool that clamps to the rod. You see many S&Ws where a previous owner has used pliers to tighten the rod and that usually leaves tell tale marks or it flattens the checkering at the front end of the rod. As your revolver does not have an extractor rod shroud, you might be able to tighten it enough with your fingers to allow it to disengage from the front locking bolt. Remember that its thread is opposite most threads so turn it counter clockwise to tighten it. __________________ Scharfschuetzer US Army Distinguished Rifleman Washington State Distinguished Rifleman NRA Police Distinguished Expert Last edited by Scharfschuetzer; January 29, 2012 at 08:31 PM.

January 29, 2012, 08:17 PM	#3
mete Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2004 Location: NY State Posts: 6,575	Extractor rod has unscrewed or you have a grain or two of unburned poweder under the extractor star. __________________ And Watson , bring your revolver !

January 29, 2012, 09:01 PM	#7
Scharfschuetzer Senior Member Join Date: January 28, 2012 Location: Puget Sound Posts: 293	Clothes Pins Good idea Blind Dog. For those doing so, place empty cases in your chambers to support the star when you tighten down on the rod. __________________ Scharfschuetzer US Army Distinguished Rifleman Washington State Distinguished Rifleman NRA Police Distinguished Expert

January 29, 2012, 10:25 PM	#8
Crazy88Fingers Senior Member Join Date: November 20, 2010 Location: WesTex Posts: 958	If you feel up to it you may want to take that cylinder apart for a good cleaning and oiling. And when you put it back together spread a drop of blue loc-tite on the ejector rod threads to keep it from shaking loose again. __________________ "And I'm tellin' you son, well it ain't no fun, staring straight down a .44" -Lynyrd Skynyrd

January 29, 2012, 08:22 PM	#4
ScottRiqui Senior Member Join Date: January 27, 2010 Location: Norfolk, VA Posts: 2,905	+1 on the ejector rod. I have a 1920s-era pre-Model 10 that I shoot frequently, and that's the only problem it gives me - after a few dozen rounds, the rod will back out enough that I can't open the cylinder. I need to put some blue Loctite on it, but haven't gotten around to it.

January 29, 2012, 08:29 PM	#5
shafter Senior Member Join Date: December 23, 2009 Posts: 1,624	THANKS!!!! Problem solved You guys were right, the ejector rod needed adjustment. This forum is awesome

January 29, 2012, 08:40 PM	#6
Blind Dog Jake Member Join Date: November 26, 2011 Location: N.W. Ohio Posts: 41	You can use a clothes pin to tighten the ejector rod. Just clip it on the knurled end of ejector rod and use a pair of plires to tighten the rod. It works great.

January 29, 2012, 11:17 PM	#9
skidder Senior Member Join Date: August 17, 2008 Location: Montana Posts: 640	I recently used a leather strap with channel locks. __________________ Gun permit?? A bread crumb tossed to a sleeping society awoken by the sound of complacency. "They are for your own good", and "you will understand when you see all the lives they save". Yes master, what else will you toss me from your bag of infringements?? Do you want me to roll over and play dead? I do that very well. --skidder

January 30, 2012, 08:53 AM	#11
madcratebuilder Senior Member Join Date: November 2, 2007 Location: Northern Orygun Posts: 4,923	If you own more than a few $500 S&W revolvers then the $15 ejector rod tool is a very wise investment. You can then properly disassemble and reassemble the revolver and no need for any thread locking compound. I used the DIY tools for years but after just one slip the correct tool seemed much wiser.