Trigger on my GP100

DavidAGO · March 4, 2009, 03:23 PM

I picked up a used but seldom fired GP100 with 6 inch barrel a couple of weeks ago. I really like the gun EXCEPT for one nagging problem. I am shooting fairly light .38 wadcutter loads, so far about 200 loads total. Almost every time, on the 3rd or 4th shot in double action, the cylinder seems to freeze and not turn. The hammer comes back about half way and no more. I have to release and use it single action to get it to fire. Twice, that was not enough and I had to stop and open the cylinder, then close it to gt it to fire. The gunshop owner told me he would give me my money back, but he said I might need to fire it 3-400 rounds to get things to loosen up. I want to keep the gun, it's accurate and fits me well(it is my first Ruger). We do not have a local gunsmith or I would take it to him. As it is, I would have to ship it off. Is this something that might work it's way out with a few more rounds? I have no problem with that if it might work, or do I need to go on and have it looked at?

David AGO

MrBorland · March 4, 2009, 04:21 PM

1. Does this only happens when you're actually shooting the gun, i.e. doesn't do it when you're dry firing an unloaded gun?

2. When this happens and you need to cock the hammer, do you also feel resistance when you cock the hammer, or does it feel normal?

The usual suspicion is that the cylinder chambers need a good scrubbing to get rid of the carbon left by .38 rounds, in which case the new rounds have trouble seating completely and hit the frame when rotating into position. In this case, it's strange that it happens even with .38 wadcutters. Is the problem much worse with .357 magnums? If so, I'd say the chambers need a brass brush, some Hoppes and elbow grease.

Also check for crud under the ejector star. Maybe heavy carbon buildup on the front of the cylinder, too - so much it may now be hitting the forcing cone. This could cause the symptoms you describe even if the gun weren't loaded

Just how "light" are these wadcutters? Are they re-loads? Maybe they're too light and there's not enough oomph to reset the primers after being fired. Take a look at the empty casings to see if the primers are bulged. The bulged primers may be hitting the frame.

Sometimes, too, the re-loader doesn't crimp strong enough, and the bullets can back out a wee bit under recoil, but being wadcutters, they'd have to back way out, so this isn't likely the problem.

Finally, open the cylinder and check the ejector rod to be sure it hasn't unscrewed (and lengthened) a bit, though I'd be surprised if that were the problem here.

If none of these pan out, and/or, you answered "no" to either question 1 or 2 above, you may need a gunsmith to take a look at it.

Quote:

I might need to fire it 3-400 rounds to get things to loosen up.

um...no. IMO, the shop owner's blowing smoke.

Elvishead · March 4, 2009, 04:27 PM

Quote:

um...no. IMO, the shop owner's blowing smoke.

I agree, you shouldn't have to spend over a $100 to see if the gun is broken, or broke-in.

I couldn't imagine him giving you your money back if you wasted on ammo to see if it was broken.

MBRinTN · March 4, 2009, 04:38 PM

Ruger revolvers are famous for having a "False reset," where the trigger feels like it has returned all the way forward but in fact hasn't. if you try to pull the trigger to fire a round in this position it can lock the whole works up. Maybe try dry firing to see if you can recreate it, and be mindful of letting your trigger go instead of riding the trigger to the reset. This can especially be a problem if you shoot something like a Glock with a short reset for a while and then switch to the Ruger.

MrBorland · March 4, 2009, 04:41 PM

Look your gun over very closely to see if there are any burrs or irregularities that might be hitting the brass rim as the cylinder rotates.

I have a pristine S&W Model 10. Very slightly used. Same symptoms you described, but the gun was as clean as the day it left the factory...and it did it while dry firing with empty cases in the cylinder.

Turns out there was a tiny little burr of metal sticking out on the back of the frame. Seems it was catching on the rim of some cases as they rotated into position. Just high enough to catch only some of the rims.

In my case, I protected the rest of the gun, and carefully filed off the burr. Problem solved.

Edit: +1 MBRinTN.

Tom2 · March 4, 2009, 06:11 PM

I would not put up with a revolver that is not 100% for an instant. The revolver does not need a "break in period" to function correctly. A break in of sorts will occur as parts wear in, and maybe things work more smoothly, but if a revolver freezes up or does not fire 100% with known good factory ammo, it is a non acceptable device. There may be some reasonable explanation, like the reset deal, that can be easily cured or something. But the dealer better stand behind it and I am suprised he did not try to figure out what the deal is. What is he gonna do, wipe it down and put it back out for sale?

drail · March 4, 2009, 09:26 PM

Try forcing yourself to let the trigger return all the way forward. Rugers are notorious for having people not used to them being short stroked. My wife had this problem with her GP 100 and once I got her to understand what she was doing it never happened again.

skydiver3346 · March 4, 2009, 09:35 PM

No way am I going to own any revolver (or any other weapon for that matter)that doesn't go bang everytime I pull the trigger, (Especially a revolver). It needs no "brake in period" in order to function properly. You life could be on the line one day and it could hang up on you........

DavidAGO · March 4, 2009, 09:45 PM

I dry-fired it this evening, with and without empty casings in it. I went ahead and cleaned it, checking for anything that would not let the ejector seat fully. While dry-firing, I could not get it to lock up. I do shoot reloads, 4 gr. of bullseye, the same load is just fine in my 686. I dry-fired it with cases I had fired in the GP100 and empty cases I had fired in the 686.

I did consciously let the trigger go completely after each pull, maybe that is the problem. Gee, I guess I now have to go out to the range tomorrow after work and force myself to shoot 50 or so rounds to check.

I do not want to leave anyone with the impression that the dealer would not stand behind it. He said I could have my money back. He is not the type to just clean it up and put it back up for sale. When I told him about it, I just assumed it was a trigger problem, and relayed that to him. That is when he said Rugers have a heavy trigger pull that smooths out after awhile.

Thanks, and I will post after tomorrow afternoon and let you know new results.

DavidAGO

drail · March 5, 2009, 02:57 PM

I have seen a lot of people who are used to S&W revolvers fire a Ruger for the first time and short stroke it. It's a completely different mechanism. Don't feel bad if that is the problem. You are not alone. There may be something else wrong. Keep trying to duplicate the malfunction.

DavidAGO · March 5, 2009, 07:46 PM

I forced myself to go out and shoot the Ruger. Once I got there, I went ahead and forced myself to shoot 100 rounds, plus 50 .22's through the Colt woodsman. (I just hate to take one gun to the range

I made sure I released the trigger fully between shots, and had no hang-ups. Even firing it as fast as I could, no hang-ups. So, MBRinTN and drail, looks like you hit the nail on the head.

I will have to admit, it does not seem right to have to have a different technique for different brands of revolvers.

Thanks to all who responded.

DavidAGO

March 4, 2009, 03:23 PM	#1
DavidAGO Senior Member Join Date: October 7, 2008 Location: Magnolia, AR Posts: 340	Trigger on my GP100 I picked up a used but seldom fired GP100 with 6 inch barrel a couple of weeks ago. I really like the gun EXCEPT for one nagging problem. I am shooting fairly light .38 wadcutter loads, so far about 200 loads total. Almost every time, on the 3rd or 4th shot in double action, the cylinder seems to freeze and not turn. The hammer comes back about half way and no more. I have to release and use it single action to get it to fire. Twice, that was not enough and I had to stop and open the cylinder, then close it to gt it to fire. The gunshop owner told me he would give me my money back, but he said I might need to fire it 3-400 rounds to get things to loosen up. I want to keep the gun, it's accurate and fits me well(it is my first Ruger). We do not have a local gunsmith or I would take it to him. As it is, I would have to ship it off. Is this something that might work it's way out with a few more rounds? I have no problem with that if it might work, or do I need to go on and have it looked at? David AGO

March 4, 2009, 04:41 PM	#5
MrBorland Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2007 Location: NC Posts: 2,614	another possibility... Look your gun over very closely to see if there are any burrs or irregularities that might be hitting the brass rim as the cylinder rotates. I have a pristine S&W Model 10. Very slightly used. Same symptoms you described, but the gun was as clean as the day it left the factory...and it did it while dry firing with empty cases in the cylinder. Turns out there was a tiny little burr of metal sticking out on the back of the frame. Seems it was catching on the rim of some cases as they rotated into position. Just high enough to catch only some of the rims. In my case, I protected the rest of the gun, and carefully filed off the burr. Problem solved. Edit: +1 MBRinTN.

March 4, 2009, 06:11 PM	#6
Tom2 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 5,676	I would not put up with a revolver that is not 100% for an instant. The revolver does not need a "break in period" to function correctly. A break in of sorts will occur as parts wear in, and maybe things work more smoothly, but if a revolver freezes up or does not fire 100% with known good factory ammo, it is a non acceptable device. There may be some reasonable explanation, like the reset deal, that can be easily cured or something. But the dealer better stand behind it and I am suprised he did not try to figure out what the deal is. What is he gonna do, wipe it down and put it back out for sale? __________________ Your gun is like your nose, it is just wrong for someone else to pick it for you!

March 4, 2009, 09:35 PM	#8
skydiver3346 Senior Member Join Date: December 22, 2007 Location: Florida Posts: 1,222	I agree with Tom2: No way am I going to own any revolver (or any other weapon for that matter)that doesn't go bang everytime I pull the trigger, (Especially a revolver). It needs no "brake in period" in order to function properly. You life could be on the line one day and it could hang up on you........

March 5, 2009, 07:46 PM	#11
DavidAGO Senior Member Join Date: October 7, 2008 Location: Magnolia, AR Posts: 340	That's it! I forced myself to go out and shoot the Ruger. Once I got there, I went ahead and forced myself to shoot 100 rounds, plus 50 .22's through the Colt woodsman. (I just hate to take one gun to the range I made sure I released the trigger fully between shots, and had no hang-ups. Even firing it as fast as I could, no hang-ups. So, MBRinTN and drail, looks like you hit the nail on the head. I will have to admit, it does not seem right to have to have a different technique for different brands of revolvers. Thanks to all who responded. DavidAGO

March 4, 2009, 04:38 PM	#4
MBRinTN Member Join Date: October 11, 2005 Posts: 91	Ruger revolvers are famous for having a "False reset," where the trigger feels like it has returned all the way forward but in fact hasn't. if you try to pull the trigger to fire a round in this position it can lock the whole works up. Maybe try dry firing to see if you can recreate it, and be mindful of letting your trigger go instead of riding the trigger to the reset. This can especially be a problem if you shoot something like a Glock with a short reset for a while and then switch to the Ruger.

March 4, 2009, 09:26 PM	#7
drail Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2008 Posts: 3,150	Try forcing yourself to let the trigger return all the way forward. Rugers are notorious for having people not used to them being short stroked. My wife had this problem with her GP 100 and once I got her to understand what she was doing it never happened again.

March 4, 2009, 09:45 PM	#9
DavidAGO Senior Member Join Date: October 7, 2008 Location: Magnolia, AR Posts: 340	I dry-fired it this evening, with and without empty casings in it. I went ahead and cleaned it, checking for anything that would not let the ejector seat fully. While dry-firing, I could not get it to lock up. I do shoot reloads, 4 gr. of bullseye, the same load is just fine in my 686. I dry-fired it with cases I had fired in the GP100 and empty cases I had fired in the 686. I did consciously let the trigger go completely after each pull, maybe that is the problem. Gee, I guess I now have to go out to the range tomorrow after work and force myself to shoot 50 or so rounds to check. I do not want to leave anyone with the impression that the dealer would not stand behind it. He said I could have my money back. He is not the type to just clean it up and put it back up for sale. When I told him about it, I just assumed it was a trigger problem, and relayed that to him. That is when he said Rugers have a heavy trigger pull that smooths out after awhile. Thanks, and I will post after tomorrow afternoon and let you know new results. DavidAGO

March 5, 2009, 02:57 PM	#10
drail Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2008 Posts: 3,150	I have seen a lot of people who are used to S&W revolvers fire a Ruger for the first time and short stroke it. It's a completely different mechanism. Don't feel bad if that is the problem. You are not alone. There may be something else wrong. Keep trying to duplicate the malfunction.