stippling

mattfra · March 15, 2000, 09:47 PM

I was thinking about stippling the frontstrap of my Springfield 1911A1 Govt. I have a Sears Dremel type tool. Is there an engraving or some other type of bit I can use to stipple? Is the old hammer and punch a better route for stippling? Comments anyone?

George Stringer · March 16, 2000, 08:25 AM

Mattfra, I've never considered using a rotary tool for stippling. I really don't know how you'd go about it. The hammer and punch method is the way to do it. I'm going to send you a little info on this. The text is on stippling in wood but the theory is the same. George

**4V50 Gary** · March 16, 2000, 09:04 AM

Stippling is the easy and after you get the info from George, suggest you practice on some scrap metal so you get the feel.

VictorLouis · March 17, 2000, 08:10 PM

Try an electric engraving pencil. Practice on a piece of scrap first! The texture is far less "harsh" than true stippling, but still provides for a good puchase. Easier to file away for an alternate finish than stipping.

EQUALIZER · March 18, 2000, 01:29 AM

Some of the links that I got in the handguns section looked like a vibratory engraver was used. Is there a preference as to hammer/chissel vs. this type engraver, George? It seems like I can get some good control in scrap alluminum w/one. Haven't seen enough to compare the difference in asthetics though.

------------------
"But now, he that hath a purse, let him take it, and likewise his scrip; and he that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one." -Jesus Christ (Luke 22:36, see John 3:15-18)

mattfra · March 19, 2000, 09:13 PM

Thanks for the info. This afternoon I did the frontstrap. Turned out great!! I'm thinking about the front of the trigger guard and maybe grinding off the serrations on the flat mainspring housing and doing that too!! It really looks nice. Thanks for the help. After using the punch and hammer I'm glad I didn't use a Dremel. The gun looks very professional now. Now, the money I saved on that...MMC rear sight and front cocking serrations...soon!!

mattfra · March 19, 2000, 09:17 PM

Thanks for the info. This afternoon I did the frontstrap. Turned out great!! I'm thinking about the front of the trigger guard and maybe grinding off the serrations on the flat mainspring housing and doing that too!! It really looks nice. Thanks for the help. After using the punch and hammer I'm glad I didn't use a Dremel. The gun looks very professional now. Now, the money I saved on that...MMC rear sight and front cocking serrations...soon!!

George Stringer · March 19, 2000, 09:37 PM

Equalizer, I think Mattfra's post says it all. I have a hard time trying to control a dremel type tool for anything precise. I've always used an 8oz ball pean and a stippling tool made from a drift punch. George

EQUALIZER · March 19, 2000, 11:21 PM

George,

I didn't mean a dremel type (ie. rotory). I was refering to the type of pencil engraver that vibrates, rather than spins. It is easier to control than a dremel type and puts sharp various length lines in a fairly controled manner. It would doubtless look different since it handles differently than a vibrating engraver. I don't own a stippling tool to compare it to. I do however have a few punches to grind down. What is the best shape to grind it to?

------------------
"But now, he that hath a purse, let him take it, and likewise his scrip; and he that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one." -Jesus Christ (Luke 22:36, see John 3:15-18)

March 15, 2000, 09:47 PM	#1
mattfra Member Join Date: July 3, 1999 Posts: 93	I was thinking about stippling the frontstrap of my Springfield 1911A1 Govt. I have a Sears Dremel type tool. Is there an engraving or some other type of bit I can use to stipple? Is the old hammer and punch a better route for stippling? Comments anyone?

March 16, 2000, 08:25 AM	#2
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Mattfra, I've never considered using a rotary tool for stippling. I really don't know how you'd go about it. The hammer and punch method is the way to do it. I'm going to send you a little info on this. The text is on stippling in wood but the theory is the same. George

March 16, 2000, 09:04 AM	#3
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,841	Stippling is the easy and after you get the info from George, suggest you practice on some scrap metal so you get the feel.

March 17, 2000, 08:10 PM	#4
VictorLouis Senior Member Join Date: January 12, 2000 Location: Arizona Posts: 2,302	Try an electric engraving pencil. Practice on a piece of scrap first! The texture is far less "harsh" than true stippling, but still provides for a good puchase. Easier to file away for an alternate finish than stipping.

March 18, 2000, 01:29 AM	#5
EQUALIZER Senior Member Join Date: September 12, 1999 Posts: 657	Some of the links that I got in the handguns section looked like a vibratory engraver was used. Is there a preference as to hammer/chissel vs. this type engraver, George? It seems like I can get some good control in scrap alluminum w/one. Haven't seen enough to compare the difference in asthetics though. ------------------ "But now, he that hath a purse, let him take it, and likewise his scrip; and he that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one." -Jesus Christ (Luke 22:36, see John 3:15-18)

March 19, 2000, 09:13 PM	#6
mattfra Member Join Date: July 3, 1999 Posts: 93	Thanks for the info. This afternoon I did the frontstrap. Turned out great!! I'm thinking about the front of the trigger guard and maybe grinding off the serrations on the flat mainspring housing and doing that too!! It really looks nice. Thanks for the help. After using the punch and hammer I'm glad I didn't use a Dremel. The gun looks very professional now. Now, the money I saved on that...MMC rear sight and front cocking serrations...soon!!

March 19, 2000, 09:17 PM	#7
mattfra Member Join Date: July 3, 1999 Posts: 93	Thanks for the info. This afternoon I did the frontstrap. Turned out great!! I'm thinking about the front of the trigger guard and maybe grinding off the serrations on the flat mainspring housing and doing that too!! It really looks nice. Thanks for the help. After using the punch and hammer I'm glad I didn't use a Dremel. The gun looks very professional now. Now, the money I saved on that...MMC rear sight and front cocking serrations...soon!!

March 19, 2000, 09:37 PM	#8
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Equalizer, I think Mattfra's post says it all. I have a hard time trying to control a dremel type tool for anything precise. I've always used an 8oz ball pean and a stippling tool made from a drift punch. George

March 19, 2000, 11:21 PM	#9
EQUALIZER Senior Member Join Date: September 12, 1999 Posts: 657	George, I didn't mean a dremel type (ie. rotory). I was refering to the type of pencil engraver that vibrates, rather than spins. It is easier to control than a dremel type and puts sharp various length lines in a fairly controled manner. It would doubtless look different since it handles differently than a vibrating engraver. I don't own a stippling tool to compare it to. I do however have a few punches to grind down. What is the best shape to grind it to? ------------------ "But now, he that hath a purse, let him take it, and likewise his scrip; and he that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one." -Jesus Christ (Luke 22:36, see John 3:15-18)