Suppressor option question

Rikakiah · July 27, 2013, 02:05 AM

I'm looking to get a suppressor for a 5.56 AR. However, my future plans are to get a short .300BLK upper as well.

I was seriously considering the AAC-SDN-6 (I think I got all the letters, you probably know which I mean). I'd heard a lot of good about it, it's rated for my chosen calibers, and a local shop has it on sale through Wednesday.

However, now I'm reading a few stories about it being a bit loose due to the QD mount, so was curious how much of an issue this would be, or if there's a threaded option out there I might want to consider?

Also, once my SBR is complete, it would be attached inside the rail system (looking more like an integral suppressor). Do you need access to the chamber side of a QD can to attach/remove it?

Or, do I just get a dedicated 5.56 and hope Daniels decides to allow purchase of only the upper for their ISR by the time I can afford my .300 goal?

Thanks.

Willie Lowman · July 27, 2013, 09:45 AM

Some AAC cans will tighten down just with a tiny but of movement in the locking tab between the teeth of the muzzle mount. My friend's M4-2K does this. It does not have any negative effects on accuracy and I've never seen it loosen on the mount. Its just an anoyance. I have heard stories about cans coming off the mount but the reality is any QD mount can fail. They have the 90 tooth mount for their newest cans that suposedly solves this problem but the military is still buying the 51 tooth mounts.

As far as the can going inside the rails, don't do it with a AAC can. You won't be able to push in the locking tab to remove the can from the mount. I think a YHM might work better for mounting inside the handguard.

Theohazard · July 27, 2013, 10:22 AM

The SDN-6 is the best all-around rifle can on the market, in my opinion. It's a super-durable full-auto-rated .308 can that's also very quiet on 5.56 (with less back pressure), and it's also optimized for .300 Blackout subsonic. I love mine. I only run it on 5.56 right now, but I'm starting a 300 Blackout build when I can afford it.

On thing about the 51-tooth QD mounting system: It's sometimes a little loose, but it's not an issue, and it won't back off at all unless something is damaged somehow. When you're attaching the can, it's a good idea to press down on the release tab while you screw it on; this prevents the ratchet lock on the can from "clicking" against the teeth on the mount. It's not 100% necessary to do this, but it doesn't hurt and may make the can's mounting system wear less after years of coming on and off the mount.

Also, I've discovered that some 51t mounts are tighter than others. Every time I mount a 51t muzzle device to a rifle, I try a bunch of mounts to see which one fits the best. For whatever reason, usually about 1 in 4 mounts is tighter than the rest.

EDIT: (Forgot to mention the threaded option.) The AAC Hunter is the threaded version of the SDN-6. AAC has been promising it for a year and a half, and it still hasn't hit the market yet. Supposedly, it's finally coming out in September, but I wouldn't hold my breath if I were you; I be surprised if it actually came out this year.

Thread-on cans are lighter and, in theory, slightly more accurate. But they take a lot longer to take on and off, and they require your host weapon to just have the bare threads showing. I don't recommend a thread-on can unless you're doing a pin-and-weld job, or if you don't plan on taking the can on and off very much, or if you plan to use it on multiple rifles.

Rikakiah · July 27, 2013, 11:30 AM

In reality, I won't be detaching it much at all-once I get the .300 barrel, I'll just have the 5.56 as a backup, so the QD being inside the rails would only be a hassle maybe once or twice a year. But, I don't know...I'm still hung up on the possibility of a QD can wiggling, regardless if it affects accuracy. I also came across Spikes' LRS-2 that looks pretty nice (although I can't find a lot of real world data on it). It also seems to hang over the barrel behind the threads about 2", which would give me more options on uppers while keeping the integral look I'm wanting.

Anyone have any experience with these, know what threading they are (ie standard 1/2x28 or whatever), or have any other similar options (can extends back over the barrel)?

Theohazard · July 27, 2013, 02:58 PM

I'm not familiar with the Spikes can, though normally the US thread pattern for 30 caliber cans is 5/8x24 and .223 is 1/2x28.

Also, keep in mind that the slight wiggle I'm referring to is not a side-to side wiggle that would affect bore alignment, it's a slight rotational wiggle.

tmorone · July 30, 2013, 10:59 AM

I have both an AAC M4-2000 and AAC SDN-6, have never had problems with the can getting loose.

For what its worth, I wish I would have bought the SDN first- it's a FAR more versatile silencer. Very happy with both purchases though.

July 27, 2013, 02:05 AM	#1
Rikakiah Senior Member Join Date: June 29, 2013 Posts: 189	Suppressor option question I'm looking to get a suppressor for a 5.56 AR. However, my future plans are to get a short .300BLK upper as well. I was seriously considering the AAC-SDN-6 (I think I got all the letters, you probably know which I mean). I'd heard a lot of good about it, it's rated for my chosen calibers, and a local shop has it on sale through Wednesday. However, now I'm reading a few stories about it being a bit loose due to the QD mount, so was curious how much of an issue this would be, or if there's a threaded option out there I might want to consider? Also, once my SBR is complete, it would be attached inside the rail system (looking more like an integral suppressor). Do you need access to the chamber side of a QD can to attach/remove it? Or, do I just get a dedicated 5.56 and hope Daniels decides to allow purchase of only the upper for their ISR by the time I can afford my .300 goal? Thanks. Last edited by Rikakiah; July 27, 2013 at 02:17 AM.

July 27, 2013, 09:45 AM	#2
Willie Lowman Senior Member Join Date: March 5, 2009 Location: Uh-Hi-O Posts: 3,006	Some AAC cans will tighten down just with a tiny but of movement in the locking tab between the teeth of the muzzle mount. My friend's M4-2K does this. It does not have any negative effects on accuracy and I've never seen it loosen on the mount. Its just an anoyance. I have heard stories about cans coming off the mount but the reality is any QD mount can fail. They have the 90 tooth mount for their newest cans that suposedly solves this problem but the military is still buying the 51 tooth mounts. As far as the can going inside the rails, don't do it with a AAC can. You won't be able to push in the locking tab to remove the can from the mount. I think a YHM might work better for mounting inside the handguard. __________________ "9mm has a very long history of being a pointy little bullet moving quickly" --Sevens

July 27, 2013, 10:22 AM	#3
Theohazard Senior Member Join Date: April 19, 2012 Location: Western PA Posts: 3,829	The SDN-6 is the best all-around rifle can on the market, in my opinion. It's a super-durable full-auto-rated .308 can that's also very quiet on 5.56 (with less back pressure), and it's also optimized for .300 Blackout subsonic. I love mine. I only run it on 5.56 right now, but I'm starting a 300 Blackout build when I can afford it. On thing about the 51-tooth QD mounting system: It's sometimes a little loose, but it's not an issue, and it won't back off at all unless something is damaged somehow. When you're attaching the can, it's a good idea to press down on the release tab while you screw it on; this prevents the ratchet lock on the can from "clicking" against the teeth on the mount. It's not 100% necessary to do this, but it doesn't hurt and may make the can's mounting system wear less after years of coming on and off the mount. Also, I've discovered that some 51t mounts are tighter than others. Every time I mount a 51t muzzle device to a rifle, I try a bunch of mounts to see which one fits the best. For whatever reason, usually about 1 in 4 mounts is tighter than the rest. EDIT: (Forgot to mention the threaded option.) The AAC Hunter is the threaded version of the SDN-6. AAC has been promising it for a year and a half, and it still hasn't hit the market yet. Supposedly, it's finally coming out in September, but I wouldn't hold my breath if I were you; I be surprised if it actually came out this year. Thread-on cans are lighter and, in theory, slightly more accurate. But they take a lot longer to take on and off, and they require your host weapon to just have the bare threads showing. I don't recommend a thread-on can unless you're doing a pin-and-weld job, or if you don't plan on taking the can on and off very much, or if you plan to use it on multiple rifles. __________________ 0331: "Accuracy by volume." Last edited by Theohazard; July 27, 2013 at 10:45 AM.

July 27, 2013, 02:58 PM	#5
Theohazard Senior Member Join Date: April 19, 2012 Location: Western PA Posts: 3,829	I'm not familiar with the Spikes can, though normally the US thread pattern for 30 caliber cans is 5/8x24 and .223 is 1/2x28. Also, keep in mind that the slight wiggle I'm referring to is not a side-to side wiggle that would affect bore alignment, it's a slight rotational wiggle. __________________ 0331: "Accuracy by volume."

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July 27, 2013, 11:30 AM	#4
Rikakiah Senior Member Join Date: June 29, 2013 Posts: 189	In reality, I won't be detaching it much at all-once I get the .300 barrel, I'll just have the 5.56 as a backup, so the QD being inside the rails would only be a hassle maybe once or twice a year. But, I don't know...I'm still hung up on the possibility of a QD can wiggling, regardless if it affects accuracy. I also came across Spikes' LRS-2 that looks pretty nice (although I can't find a lot of real world data on it). It also seems to hang over the barrel behind the threads about 2", which would give me more options on uppers while keeping the integral look I'm wanting. Anyone have any experience with these, know what threading they are (ie standard 1/2x28 or whatever), or have any other similar options (can extends back over the barrel)?

July 30, 2013, 10:59 AM	#6
tmorone Senior Member Join Date: October 22, 2010 Posts: 221	I have both an AAC M4-2000 and AAC SDN-6, have never had problems with the can getting loose. For what its worth, I wish I would have bought the SDN first- it's a FAR more versatile silencer. Very happy with both purchases though.