tolerance on .44 case length

radshop · July 29, 2007, 01:10 AM

fairly new to handloading - I bought new .44 Magnum Top Brass that measures from 1.275 to 1.285 with caliper - specified length is 1.275. I'm planning to trim it all to 1.275, but not sure what normal tolerances are on case length. What are thoughts of experienced loaders?

The Tourist · July 29, 2007, 01:22 AM

I would go with consistency.

Unless your brass is a mixed bag (a condition where some brass is thicker to the point of producing an over-pressured load), it is more important to have them all the same length. For several reasons.

First, revolver ammo needs to be roll-crimped. Heavier loads often have bullets "jumping the crimp." If a bullet slides to far forward it can tie up the gun. At the very least it might spill powder all over the gun or change pressures resulting in larger groups.

If this ammo is a mate for a lever gun, then crimping is needed to keep the bullet from being jammed into the case while still in the magazine/tube.

To that end, I have never seen a balloon head case.

I was always careful. I checked length. I used good 429421 bullets. A Lyman luber/sizer. I champhered case mouths. I kept loads to a reasonable pressure. Loose primer pockets got the case tossed away.

I wouldn't lay awake nights losing sleep, just make case trimming a part of careful handloading.

Crosshair · July 29, 2007, 01:26 AM

There is a SAAMI max and min case length. Max is 1.285. it is RECOMENDED to trim to 1.285. Since the 44 Mag headspaces on the rim, length is less critical. As long as it is less than SAAMI max than you should be good to go.

The only real issue with case length would be the application of the crimp. Having a wide variance could cause problems. You will find that many reloaders, including myself, do not trim straight handgun brass. Handgun brass generally gets shorter with use and there is little to no need to trim them.

Al Norris · July 29, 2007, 07:56 AM

Just for myself, I like the the crimp to be at or very, very near the same place on each bullet. To me, this means that the case length must be as near the same for each run.

I always put a heavy roll crimp on my .44's. It's a safe practice with that cartridge. I've never had one "jump" and I don't intend to find out how hard it is to extract from a tied up revelver.

I agree with The Tourist. I like my ammo to be consistent. Both in pressure and in flight characteristics.

radshop · July 29, 2007, 09:39 AM

Thanks for the replies - I'll follow the advice of going for consistency until I get more experience to judge for myself.

July 29, 2007, 01:10 AM	#1
radshop Member Join Date: November 26, 2004 Posts: 84	tolerance on .44 case length fairly new to handloading - I bought new .44 Magnum Top Brass that measures from 1.275 to 1.285 with caliper - specified length is 1.275. I'm planning to trim it all to 1.275, but not sure what normal tolerances are on case length. What are thoughts of experienced loaders?

July 29, 2007, 01:26 AM	#3
Crosshair Senior Member Join Date: December 16, 2004 Location: Grand Forks, ND Posts: 5,333	There is a SAAMI max and min case length. Max is 1.285. it is RECOMENDED to trim to 1.285. Since the 44 Mag headspaces on the rim, length is less critical. As long as it is less than SAAMI max than you should be good to go. The only real issue with case length would be the application of the crimp. Having a wide variance could cause problems. You will find that many reloaders, including myself, do not trim straight handgun brass. Handgun brass generally gets shorter with use and there is little to no need to trim them. __________________ I don't carry a gun to go looking for trouble, I carry a gun in case trouble finds me.

July 29, 2007, 01:22 AM	#2
The Tourist Junior member Join Date: June 20, 2005 Posts: 2,348	I would go with consistency. Unless your brass is a mixed bag (a condition where some brass is thicker to the point of producing an over-pressured load), it is more important to have them all the same length. For several reasons. First, revolver ammo needs to be roll-crimped. Heavier loads often have bullets "jumping the crimp." If a bullet slides to far forward it can tie up the gun. At the very least it might spill powder all over the gun or change pressures resulting in larger groups. If this ammo is a mate for a lever gun, then crimping is needed to keep the bullet from being jammed into the case while still in the magazine/tube. To that end, I have never seen a balloon head case. I was always careful. I checked length. I used good 429421 bullets. A Lyman luber/sizer. I champhered case mouths. I kept loads to a reasonable pressure. Loose primer pockets got the case tossed away. I wouldn't lay awake nights losing sleep, just make case trimming a part of careful handloading.

July 29, 2007, 07:56 AM	#4
Al Norris Moderator Emeritus Join Date: June 29, 2000 Location: Rupert, Idaho Posts: 9,660	Just for myself, I like the the crimp to be at or very, very near the same place on each bullet. To me, this means that the case length must be as near the same for each run. I always put a heavy roll crimp on my .44's. It's a safe practice with that cartridge. I've never had one "jump" and I don't intend to find out how hard it is to extract from a tied up revelver. I agree with The Tourist. I like my ammo to be consistent. Both in pressure and in flight characteristics.

July 29, 2007, 09:39 AM	#5
radshop Member Join Date: November 26, 2004 Posts: 84	Thanks for the replies - I'll follow the advice of going for consistency until I get more experience to judge for myself.