What lubricant is NO good

[JohnKSa]

What not to use.

• Oils with chlorine containing compounds.
• It's probably wise to avoid graphite lubricants on guns with aluminum components.
• Really thick oils. Oils need to migrate a little to get into the areas that need lubrication, so if the oil is too thick it won't get where it needs to go. Also, in very cold conditions, thick oils may thicken to the point that they tie up the gun.
• Really thin oils. If the oil is too thin, it's not going to provide much lubrication. HOWEVER, don't be fooled into disregarding lubricants that use a very thin carrier to get a dry/semi-dry lube where it needs to go. The carrier isn't doing the lubrication and is usually intended to evaporate. In that case, the thinner it is, the better. With this kind of lube, you may need to shake the container vigorously to insure that the dry/semi-dry lube is thoroughly mixed with the carrier before applying the lubricant.
• Oils that don't provide adequate corrosion protection. If you live in a desert and only buy stainless steel guns, then what constitutes "adequate corrosion protection" is different for you than for someone who prefers blued steel firearms and who lives on a houseboat that's parked on saltwater.

Other things to think about.

If this is a carry gun, you may want to think about choosing something non-toxic and that won't cause stains on clothing.

[gbc123]

Originally Posted by Noreaster

When we ran Sigs I used WD40 and had a malfunction at the worst time and almost paid the ultimate price. I went to Sig and was told to never use WD40 as it dries out the gun, it does not lubricate (Sig words not mine.) Also the State Game Wardens had trouble with WD40 and would not allow it's officers to use it. Rem oil has worked fine for my Glocks but on heavy use during the range with M4 rifles, Rem 870 police shotgun and Sigs classic series I found Rem Oil does not hold up well and requires repeated application during training, unlike TW25 or even break free CLP. This is my experience others may have different experiences.

Which sigs and do you know what malfunction? The firing pin jamming?

[Noreaster]

P229. I don't wish to go into the whole event, Sig classic series prefer proper lubrication and if they don't have it during hard use you can get malfunctions. It was a rainy week and I repeatedly applied WD40 at the end of tour. When the incident happened the firearm suffered a serious malfunction that took me out of the fight at a critical moment. The firearm, when released several months later, was taken to Sig for examination and I spoke with them directly after the incident. As a matter of fact WD40 was the furthest thing from my mind when I tried to diagnose what happened, they figured it out not me.

[dgludwig]

For decades I used WD 40 as a preservative and as a lubricant, for the most part without any negative issues. That is, until several firearms exhibited a hard, wax-like residue where the stuff had hardened over time. It worked fine as a rust preventative but caused a couple of my guns to have their "innards" gunked up with a residue so hard and tacky (much like a cheap shellac) that it prevented function. If by using WD 40 "properly" means stripping the gun down on a regular basis and cleaning the residue out, well, I suppose that's good advice for the proper maintenance of any firearm, no matter which lubricant and/or preservative is applied. But I will rely only on lubricants having non-hardening properties no matter how long they are left inside the internal mechanisms of any firearm I rely on to fire without any further ado. TW25 and "Break-Free" CLP are two lubricants that I have used over the past few years that have not "solidified" or gotten "gummy" over time.

[RAfiringline]

>[]wd40] It also dries and leaves behind what folks call a "varnish" type of film.<

I'll second that. I once had to spend a lot of time getting the dry residue layer off a shotgun. I use wd40 to clean powder residue off my fingers after I shoot my revolver, and to get oil off my hands after gun cleaning. It's ok as a cleaner, but if you leave an ample layer on a gun for an extended time you'll get the "varnish" effect.

So far, nobody has bad mouthed ATF, which is basically what I use. Slide rails get general purpose grease, or engine oil.

[GunLuvr01]

Any firearm lube or cleaner should do the job it was intended to do. Some cleaners aren't safe to use on certain finishes or polymer frames. Be sure to read up on your choice of cleaner or lube before using it.

[rodfac]

WD-40...useless as a lubricant for firearms, but a good water displacement agent if you drop into the drink with your blue-steel beauty.

I'm an Ed's Red user for cleaning: it's composed of equal parts by volume of; Acetone, Paint thinner or turpentine, ATF fluid, and Kerosene.

For lubricant: it's Ed's Red without the Acetone and Paint Thinner...just use a 50-50 blend of Kerosene and ATF fluid. About as cheap an effective a lube or cleaner that you can buy.

Rod

[Boncrayon]

I've keep Rem-Oil handy, but ended up switching to Ballistol cleaner lubricant as it will dissolve soft metals, clean and lubricate. It will also emulsify with moisture withing in your firearm and prevent rusting with only a 10% mixture with water.

[481]

I'd have to say that FrogLube is something to steer clear of. Never used it myself, but have seen the problems that friends have had with it. Been using BreakFree LP for long as I can recall. Never a problem so am not about to fix what ain't broke.

[GunLuvr01]

I have never had an issue with Breakfree CLP, but I heard that it can deteriorate the paint on sights. I am going to try G96 to see how well it works.

[9MMand223only]

This is a somewhat confusing thread. What is really important is "protecting" the metal in your gun from corrosion/elements. And having a "protective layer" to stop corrosion, and prevent things from sticking to parts is important.

So really, the question is, what product "protects" your toy the best from the elements?

That answer is more straight forward, with the best you can buy according to this, really good test:

WD-40 Specialist
Frog Lube
Hornady One Shot

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

I use Hornady One Shot, because it leaves almost no residue at all and dries completely, eliminating any grime buildup from anything sticking to it. Nothing sticks to it, because its dry. Unlike many lubes.

Also of note, making your handgun "wet" with lube is bad. It interferes with your recoil spring action, and can cause problems.

This is why Hornady One Shot is a top, top top tier product. It doesn't interfere with any action or parts, because its dry, not goopy or wet.

[Gunkooker55]

WD40 is more a cleaner that flushes dirt & rust out after it dies leaves no lube at all.

[michaelcj]

I happen to hate dust bunnies that turn into sludge and crud…. A well tuned and cleaned pistol or revolver requires no lube whatsoever.

Carried on duty for 40 years… competed… hunted…and just shooting for fun.

I've never "lubed" a gun in my life…. other than a wipe and then dry patches after a "boiling water" clean of a muzzle loader bore.

Snake oil….. there's one born every second.

Mike

[Bill DeShivs]

Gee, Mike- we've been doing it wrong all these years! Thanks for enlightening us!

Gunkooker- WD 40 doesn't die, so I assume you mean dries. WD 40 contains mineral oil-the same thing in 95% of the gun oils.

[45_auto]

Originally Posted by gunkooker55

WD40 is more a cleaner that flushes dirt & rust out after it dies leaves no lube at all.

http://wd40.com/uses-tips

Lubricates and protects parts from rust and corrosion

Anti-rust agent and lubricant for gun magazines

Cleans and lubricates automatic poultry feeders

Cleans and lubricates BB guns

Cleans and lubricates bells on antique sleighs

Cleans and lubricates caulk holes in horse screw caulks

Cleans and lubricates commercial coin rollers/counters

Cleans and lubricates electric horse clippers

Cleans and lubricates remote control model helicopter

Either gunkooker55 or the WD40 company is lying to us. Whom should we believe?

[jreXD9]

AstroGlide is the best.....

[gwpercle]

I used Breakfree CLP on a few guns in storage, in a locked indoor closet, the stuff gummed up the works on a K11 Swiss Schmidt-Ruben , two double action revolvers and two shotguns. To get them working again I had to totally disassemble them and remove the hardened , thickened gum stuff.
This was totally unexpected...no one ever complains of Breakfree causing this, Maybe I got a bad batch.
Gary

[Bill DeShivs]

Maybe you put too much on!

[michaelcj]

I am really not trying to be argumentative or even snarky here, but please explain to me what are the reasons for "lubing" the working parts of a pistol or revolver?

If the parts, as manufactured, are well fit and finished and the design is good what is the purpose?

If the bearing surfaces are clean, maybe even polished, what does the oil do??…. Other than attract and hold dust dirt and grime?

Rust / Corrosion Protection? I live on a small island in the Pacific North West, my house is 100yards off the beach [salt] and anyone who is familiar with the area knows there is plenty of fresh water falling from the sky more days than not.

My Long Guns are in an open faced cabinet/rack in the front room. My handguns in a locked drawer in the bed room. No oil, no lube, no rust or corrosion.

I do clean them after use and especially if they have been outside in the wet, but usually only with a good commercial gun solvent, make sure they are dry and…. Bob's "my" uncle!

No one can cycle a revolver or semi-auto pistol fast enough, for long enough to create heat or friction at the levels that it would harm the bearing surfaces of the action parts…….. unless… possibly… if the action was full of gritty little boogers trapped in the last times oil/lube hanging out there.

Those of you that use oil/lube… do you remove revolver side plates and strip all the internals, clean, lube? Or just put a "couple of drops down there" from the outside and kinda "slosh thing around" so it's all coated?
Same question regarding pistols?

Now if what every one is talking about is using a cleaner/solvent that advertises lubricating qualities and then remove and dry all the parts before reassembly… that seems reasonable … but again… Why?

Please believe the above are serious questions not snarks… I am more than willing to learn new tricks if they make sense… but..

Most of my long arms are at least as old as I am [66] half are older… oldest is my granddad's 1890 [ca 1897] that still gets shot regularly… no lube/no rust.

Revolvers/pistols are a bit younger 1977 for the revolvers 1990's for the Pistols…. again no lube/ no rust.

All function perfectly.

Mike

[JohnKSa]

...what are the reasons for "lubing" the working parts of a pistol or revolver?

1. It reduces wear and helps prevent galling. Metal sliding against metal induces wear and can produce galling. The amount of wear/galling depends on a number of factors including the roughness of the surfaces, the amount of force against the two surfaces, even the material composition of the two surfaces. It is true that high-speed applications (where parts are moving with respect to each other at high speed) require lubricants--usually special lubricants--any time metal slides against metal there is the potential for wear and galling. That potential problem can be addressed with lubrication.

2. It insures proper function. I've run into at least one gun design that has a lubrication point that absolutely requires lubrication to function properly. The owner had used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the pistol (removing ALL traces of lubrication in the process) and had failed to lubricate the gun properly after cleaning. The slide was noticeably difficult to cycle manually and the gun would not fire without malfunctioning several times per magazine. Applying a drop of lube to the proper point restored the gun to perfect functionality.

3. It enhances function. Even assuming, for the sake of argument, that there are guns that can function without any lubrication at all, judiciously applied lubrication can enhance the function of the gun. I've noted on more than one occasion that a little bit of light grease applied to the sear of a firearm can reduce the trigger pull a measurable and noticeable amount and can also make it feel smoother.

4. It helps prevent corrosion. Although your guns may remain in perfect condition with no oil applied, I can assure you that such is not the general case. I have had firearms, knives and other steel objects rust when not protected by oil and my experience is most assuredly not unique. I'm glad you've been lucky, but most people don't seem to share your good fortune.

I suspect that the cleaning products you use are leaving enough residue to provide at least some basic level of lubrication and corrosion prevention. Many cleaning products advertise such properties and apparently you've found some that are advertising truthfully.

[TripleSe7en]

Worst?
Rem-Oil
3 In One
WD-40

[buckhorn_cortez]

Rust / Corrosion Protection? I live on a small island in the Pacific North West, my house is 100yards off the beach [salt] and anyone who is familiar with the area knows there is plenty of fresh water falling from the sky more days than not.

I live in New Mexico. Most of the year the relative humidity is below 15%. In the summer it gets as low as 1%.

I have pieces of steel in my workshop that have never been outdoors exposed to weather. They develop rust after about 1-2 years depending upon how much rolling mill oil is still left on them when I pick up the material at the steel vendor.

I have a cabinet saw and a jointer / planer. Both of them have ground cast iron surfaces. The machines are always covered with a breathable cover when not in use to keep dust off of the machines. The ground cast iron will rust if I don't treat it with something like Boshield before putting away the machine.

If you don't think steel rusts...I got news for you, it rusts in New Mexico...must be the altitude...

[buckhorn_cortez]

If the bearing surfaces are clean, maybe even polished, what does the oil do??…. Other than attract and hold dust dirt and grime?

First, you need to explain to me how a lubricant "attracts dirt and grime"? Is the lubricant electrically charged in some way and the dirt and grime are the opposite charge?

I don't believe lubricants are capable of "attracting dirt and grime." They may capture the fouling created through gunpowder burning - but, that's not the same as attracting something.

You know what happens to a totally dry semi-auto pistol with no lubrication? The slide will fail to close at some point. With a 1911, that will be in under 200 rounds. With other semi-autos with smaller rails this may take longer, but at some point - the slide will fail to close.

Why? Because the carbon and powder fouling caused by shooting will be caked onto the rails making the rails physically larger until the gun jams open because the recoil spring cannot overcome the friction.

This is easily cured through lubrication. The lubricant keeps the carbon and fouling in suspension and provides a slick boundary layer for the rails to ride on.

I can run 1911's well past 2,000 rounds without cleaning or additional lubrication once lubricants are applied the way I like them done. I've done it on multiple occasions with a variety of different pistols.

Tell you what. Why don't you take one of your guns and put it in an ultrasonic cleaner and get absolutely all of the lubrication off of the gun and then run 2,000 rounds through it - I'd be interested in how that works out for you.

[45_auto]

You guys know that you're replying to a thread that's been dead for over 2 years?

[TJx]

Froglube is just coconut oil, perfume and food coloring. Coconut oil turns into a solid at 76 degrees so it's no wonder it jams guns up.
Pure garbage.