Grip Medallion Installation

LoLoSr10 · December 20, 2015, 02:18 PM

Is there currently a grip maker that I could send a pair of grips and a set of medallions to who would install the medallions for me? I have attempted to do it on my own in the past with little success. Thanks for the help.

Dixie Gunsmithing · December 21, 2015, 11:42 AM

Are they round medallions with a stud to rivet from the rear? Those are not hard to put on, it is a matter of putting the medallion against a hard rubber bench block, or a plastic round, and using a center punch to expand the rear of the rivet/stud. Don't whack on the punch, just tap it until it expands the stud.

If they're to be glued on, there is epoxy.

James K · December 21, 2015, 01:04 PM

Usually, those stock medallions are inset into the stock. That requires drilling or cutting a shallow hole for the medallion, then a smaller center hole for the pin and whatever accommodation is required for a nut on the inside. Things can get complicated when, as with most S&W wood stocks, the nut is a large stamped piece that fits closely into the cutout in the frame, so that any error in placement cannot be easily corrected.

The best approach is to bypass the stud and nut entirely and simply use epoxy or a cyanoacrylate ("crazy") glue to fix the medallion in place. The recess will still have to be cut of course, but that is a relatively easy job, with either a modellers knife (X-Acto) or a Dremel tool. With care and fitting, a very neat job can be done in a few minutes.

Jim

RickB · December 21, 2015, 01:29 PM

I have had good luck with studded Colt medallions, using epoxy and drilling a tight-fitting hole for the stud. I've never tried to expand the stud.
Plain, flat medallions have been more of a hassle. Even with extensive roughening of the contact surfaces, careful cleaning and degreasing, I have not had 100% success with epoxy, superglue, or hot glue.

**Unclenick** · December 21, 2015, 05:48 PM

For a round medallion the cleanest recess would be made on a mill using an end cutting end mill of the same diameter. Any local machine shop should be able to handle that part of it. I've done similar things on a drill press, but I had to make an adapter on the lathe to be able to hold the end mill in the drill press spindle taper.

Dixie Gunsmithing · December 21, 2015, 07:34 PM

To inset them, I would measure the diameter, as you may buy a Forstner bit in the right the diameter (probably about 1/2"). If they are studded, the bit will leave you a center hole for the studs drill. These cut a clean hole, but to make sure, you could lay the circle out with a compass, then use a sharp knife to score the circles circumference before drilling. Generally, a good Forstner bit scores the edge before boring out the wood, though.

LoLoSr10 · December 28, 2015, 12:52 AM

Thanks for all the help guys! They're 1/2 inch studded medallions that I'm wanting to install in a set of imitation buffalo horn grips for my Ruger Vaquero Bisley. Lots of great advice.

Dixie Gunsmithing · December 28, 2015, 01:18 PM

I'm not sure how the Forstner bit will do in plastic, as I take it that is what the imitation bone is. You may have trouble with that method. A 2 flute 1/2" end mill will cut it, (a 4 flute wont plunge), and you might be able to use that in a drill press, or even a router bit, but both need to be plungable.

If you have a 1/2" Forstner bit, I'd try it in a piece of scrap plastic first, to see how it cuts.

Here are some plungable router bits:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../bt_plung.html

The 1/2" router bit is around $12.

A HSS 2 flute, 1/2" mill:

http://www.travers.com/2-flute-econo.../p/08-030-116/

You can use a bit of double side foam tape, or a piece of double carpet tape, to hold the grip on a board, to handle it in a drill press vise.

James K · December 28, 2015, 04:46 PM

I see no problem with any of the suggestions about special bits and milling machines, but it seems to mean a lot of setup time and expense (unless one has the bits) for a pretty simple job.

Jim

December 20, 2015, 02:18 PM	#1
LoLoSr10 Junior Member Join Date: September 25, 2014 Posts: 6	Grip Medallion Installation Is there currently a grip maker that I could send a pair of grips and a set of medallions to who would install the medallions for me? I have attempted to do it on my own in the past with little success. Thanks for the help.

December 21, 2015, 01:29 PM	#4
RickB Senior Member Join Date: March 1, 2000 Location: Boise, ID Posts: 8,519	I have had good luck with studded Colt medallions, using epoxy and drilling a tight-fitting hole for the stud. I've never tried to expand the stud. Plain, flat medallions have been more of a hassle. Even with extensive roughening of the contact surfaces, careful cleaning and degreasing, I have not had 100% success with epoxy, superglue, or hot glue. __________________ Runs off at the mouth about anything 1911 related on this site and half the time is flat out wrong.

December 21, 2015, 05:48 PM	#5
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,078	For a round medallion the cleanest recess would be made on a mill using an end cutting end mill of the same diameter. Any local machine shop should be able to handle that part of it. I've done similar things on a drill press, but I had to make an adapter on the lathe to be able to hold the end mill in the drill press spindle taper. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

December 21, 2015, 11:42 AM	#2
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	Are they round medallions with a stud to rivet from the rear? Those are not hard to put on, it is a matter of putting the medallion against a hard rubber bench block, or a plastic round, and using a center punch to expand the rear of the rivet/stud. Don't whack on the punch, just tap it until it expands the stud. If they're to be glued on, there is epoxy.

December 21, 2015, 01:04 PM	#3
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Usually, those stock medallions are inset into the stock. That requires drilling or cutting a shallow hole for the medallion, then a smaller center hole for the pin and whatever accommodation is required for a nut on the inside. Things can get complicated when, as with most S&W wood stocks, the nut is a large stamped piece that fits closely into the cutout in the frame, so that any error in placement cannot be easily corrected. The best approach is to bypass the stud and nut entirely and simply use epoxy or a cyanoacrylate ("crazy") glue to fix the medallion in place. The recess will still have to be cut of course, but that is a relatively easy job, with either a modellers knife (X-Acto) or a Dremel tool. With care and fitting, a very neat job can be done in a few minutes. Jim

December 21, 2015, 07:34 PM	#6
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	To inset them, I would measure the diameter, as you may buy a Forstner bit in the right the diameter (probably about 1/2"). If they are studded, the bit will leave you a center hole for the studs drill. These cut a clean hole, but to make sure, you could lay the circle out with a compass, then use a sharp knife to score the circles circumference before drilling. Generally, a good Forstner bit scores the edge before boring out the wood, though.

December 28, 2015, 12:52 AM	#7
LoLoSr10 Junior Member Join Date: September 25, 2014 Posts: 6	Thanks for all the help guys! They're 1/2 inch studded medallions that I'm wanting to install in a set of imitation buffalo horn grips for my Ruger Vaquero Bisley. Lots of great advice.

December 28, 2015, 01:18 PM	#8
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	I'm not sure how the Forstner bit will do in plastic, as I take it that is what the imitation bone is. You may have trouble with that method. A 2 flute 1/2" end mill will cut it, (a 4 flute wont plunge), and you might be able to use that in a drill press, or even a router bit, but both need to be plungable. If you have a 1/2" Forstner bit, I'd try it in a piece of scrap plastic first, to see how it cuts. Here are some plungable router bits: http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../bt_plung.html The 1/2" router bit is around $12. A HSS 2 flute, 1/2" mill: http://www.travers.com/2-flute-econo.../p/08-030-116/ You can use a bit of double side foam tape, or a piece of double carpet tape, to hold the grip on a board, to handle it in a drill press vise.

December 28, 2015, 04:46 PM	#9
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	I see no problem with any of the suggestions about special bits and milling machines, but it seems to mean a lot of setup time and expense (unless one has the bits) for a pretty simple job. Jim