Ruger LCP - Broken Takedown Pin

[k Squared]

The head has broken off the takedown pin on my LCP, and I can't get the pin out of the pistol.
Is there any way to dissemble the pistol, in order to replace the pin?
I've asked the Ruger Customer Support for help, but thought this posting might get a quicker response.
Thanks
K Squared

[PetahW]

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Hold the detent spring "down" & out of the way of pressing the pin "out".

I recommend that when you press the pin out, that you also hold the polymer grip housing against the frame adjacent to the pin.

If you don't, the spring will flex the housing away from the frame and during the process, the spring can be displaced from it's inset & no longer hold a replaced pin in position.


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[FrankenMauser]

Get an RMA number (and shipping label, if you can) and send it to Ruger.



Petahw - On most versions, there is no access on the right hand side of the LCP, to push that pin out. So, unless he has a later production model with the little hole on the right side, it can't be pushed out.

[Bill DeShivs]

Now that's Ruger "quality!"

[g.willikers]

If there's no access from the other side,
Drill and tap the pin for a threaded head to pull the pin out?

[Kreyzhorse]

Hold the detent spring "down" & out of the way of pressing the pin "out".

This, or just call Ruger and send it in and let them fix it.

How in the hell did the breakdown pin break?

[FrankenMauser]

If there's no access from the other side,
Drill and tap the pin for a threaded head to pull the pin out?

It's a round pin with no other detents, methods of capture, or methods of preventing rotation.
Can't be drilled. Can't be tapped. -Unless you want to use pressure on the frame and slide to bind it up; but even then, it might just keep rotating.

[PetahW]

Originally Posted by Franken Mauser

On most versions, there is no access on the right hand side of the LCP, to push that pin out. So, unless he has a later production model with the little hole on the right side, it can't be pushed out.

Nice to know - Thanks ! My LCP had the access hole. (I sold it because I didn't care for the snappy recoil - I like the Browning 1955 much better than the ElsiePea)


FWIW, the LCP takedown pin breakage is well-known, and seems to be the leading issue with LCP's - besides the snappy recoil & takedown pin detent spring issues.

The pin issues seems to be hit/miss, like Ruger might have a (large) "bad" batch of pins made & thrown into the parts bin with good pins for random installations.

Ruger won't fix early LCP's under warranty - the factory says there's an evolving "cutt-off" SN, as production goes forward.


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[James K]

That usually happens when someone tries to remove the pin without retracting the slide to take the pressure off the pin. If I had to fix that problem, I would drill a small hole in the opposite side (calculated very carefully!) to drive the pin out. I have no idea why Ruger didn't do that; a small hole should not affect the strength of the frame since the hole that is there is almost through anyway.

Jim

[k Squared]

As it turns out, Ruger DID put a hole on the right side of the frame. It's just barely visible with the slide on.
You can push a safety pin through to drive out the takedown pin.


Just ignore the gray dot in the pictures. I started drilling through the plastic before I saw the hole.

[James K]

Well, I'll be darned! Yep, there is a hole, though it is barely big enough for a straight pin. On mine, it is almost invisible, and looks like it was drilled through the metal internal frame before that part was assembled to the polymer outer shell. So disassembly of a gun with a broken takedown pin should be only a matter of getting the spring down and out of the way, then using a very small punch to push out the takedown pin.

Problem solved.

Jim

[Dixie Gunsmithing]

This is nothing compared to the Remington Viper, anyone remember it? The rifle that Remington wished it could deny ever making, with molded in pins, and flimsy plastic parts. This Ruger is a Cadillac compared to it.

[Cirdan]

Has that happen to me at the range, so it's not just during disassembly.

Slip a thin screwdriver (jeweler's/computer) through from the right side while holding the detent spring down. This is a three-handed fix. There's a youtube video on this. The pins are cheap (price and quality) and you can get them at Brownells.

[FrankenMauser]

This is nothing compared to the Remington Viper, anyone remember it? The rifle that Remington wished it could deny ever making, with molded in pins, and flimsy plastic parts. This Ruger is a Cadillac compared to it.

Yep. My dad thought it would be a good idea to buy me one as a surprise birthday present, during a visit to a gun shop in 1994 (I'm sure the "bargain price" was his biggest draw ). ....right up until it completely locked itself up during inspection. That rifle was locked up so tight that the gun shop had to send it back to Remington.

I think Remington approached the 522 with the question: "How cheap can we go, before it causes problems?"
And they went a little too far...

[James K]

My LCP has given me no trouble, but if I ever broke/lost that takedown pin, I would drill the hole all the way through at the pin diameter, and redesign the pin to extend full width and have a thicker head.

(I hate blind holes; I have even drilled the ejector holes on 1911's through so a broken ejector stud can be pushed out.)

Jim

[checcles]

https://www.tandemkross.com/LCP-Tool...Pin_p_106.html

Problem solved.