New to suppressors, wanting to join the club.

[Savage Sam]

I want to pick up a few surpressed firearms, beginning with a 22 pistol and a pair of 22 rifles, a bolt-action and a semiauto.

Based on my personal experience with Ruger rimfire firearms, I'm leaning towards a Mk II, Mk III, or 22/45 for the pistol. I've chosen the Ruger 10/22 & 77/22 for the rifles. All three guns will be used for informal target shooting, plinking, backpacking and small-game hunting. The deciding factors in what my purchase will be, in this order: long-term reliability/durability, accuracy, ease of cleaning/maintenance, dB reduction, and cost.

I have no experience with suppressed firearms, have never fired one. My questions are as follows:

1. A Google search turns up more manufacterers and options than I know what to do with. Stainless steel, aluminum, all kinds of baffle designs, stats, stats, stats. What makes and models are in your experience, repeatedly proven to work reliably and effectively under regular outdoor use and high round count (with proper care and cleaning of course)? Again, cost is not so much a factor as quality, but if 90% of the quality is available for a much more affordable price, I'd just as soon go with the cheaper option. Diminishing returns and all that.

2. What is a realistic expectation of sound signature reduction and effect on accuracy from the different designs and barrel lengths of the properly suppressed firearms, using proper subsonic ammo? What .22 LR ammunition have you found to be your preferred poison in your suppressed weapon and why?

3. Is there one suitable .22-cal suppressor that will work with all three guns and can be switched around with optimal results? I've heard of pest-control workers opting for integrally suppressed firearms as opposed to removeable cans and also have read in several articles that a suppressed firearm should be dedicated to suppressed-only use. What are your thoughts on this?

4. For the Ruger 22 pistol shooters in the crowd, what is your preference between the Mk II/Mk III and the 22/45 series, and why?

5. I would greatly appreciate any general tips on how to maintain and use 22s or any suppressed firearm to greater effect. Any advice will be helpful.

Thank you in advance!
Sam

[Austin Cowart]

Silencer co. sparrow. I love mine and good god can you clean it! and the price is around $375 most places.

[Crosshair]

I have to get to work so I can't do a long writeup. For the time being I'll give you this link. Head over there and do some reading.

Silencertalk Forum

[Ridge_Runner_5]

Advanced Armament

GemTech

[Lurch37]

When I decided to get into the supressed .22 area, I did look around quite a bit trying to get a feel for things. Along those lines, I talked to a NFA dealer several times at local gun shows and once I was comfortable with him I went with his recommendation of a YHM, http://www.yhm.net/, Stainless Mite for my Walther P22. I have also added a Sig Mosquito, and a Ruger 22/45 to the handguns that can be supressed.

In my humble opinion, a "can" that allows you to disassemble it for cleaning is a important selling point, especially when shooting .22lr ammo, which in my expereince, leaves lead, wax, and oil residue inside the can after shooting several hundred rounds.

As far as sound reduction at the muzzle, when shooting mine, I am reminded of the sound of a pellet rifle. I have yet to hear any sonic crack no matter what the speed of my ammo as the barrels on my pistols aren't long enough for the bullet to get going that fast. Accuracy from my pistols has not suffered with the addition of a can.

As far as ammo goes, I have tried a couple different sub-sonic loads, and although they do seem to be a little quieter, they don't function in any of my semi-auto pistols. I normally shoot bulk pack Remington, Winchester, Federal ammo and it all works fine for me. The Sig is a little picky at times but functions great with CCI Mini Mag as per the Manual.

As far as a dedicated integrally supressed gun, I like the option of having a can that allows me to switch between 3 different pistols, simply for the sake of fun and something different from time to time.

When I bought my Ruger 22/45, I had my Smithy cut off about an inch or so, right behind the front sight, thread the barrel, and remount the front sight. The main reason for the 22/45 choice was that I wanted to eventually get a Tactical Solutions, http://www.tacticalsol.com/store/pc/home.asp, upper for it, making it even lighter. Now that Ruger has a 22/45 with the wood grip panels I am hoping to add one of those and get an upper for it.

I have no .22 rifle that I can mount a can to, yet, but someday I am hoping for that as well. I would like to think that my YHM Mite would work on say a .22 rifle of any make but I'm not 110% sure. What I'm really working towards is a can for my M4 clone that I could use for that and maybe a couple different .22lr rifles.

Have fun!

[MrM4]

the best comaprison I have heard made for a good .22 is it sounds alot like an Air chuck being releases from an air hose. Ammo will determine how loud it is. Gemtech stuff is great but you cant take their 22 can apart.

You will need to be able to take the can apart if you intend to shoot thousands upon thousands of rounds over the course of the cans life.

[Crosshair]

OK, now I can spend some time helping you out.

Answer to Question 1:There are several cans that would work for your needs.

Tactical Innovations
Their cans are not the most advanced, lightest, or quietest, but they are built like a brick [color=#FF0000]█[/color][color=#FF0000]█[/color][color=#FF0000]█[/color][color=#FF0000]█[/color][color=#FF0000]█[/color]house. The aluminum TAC-65 is a good choice as is the steel Quest.

To be honest, they have been passed up by newer designs. Their price used to be a big selling point, but now other companies offer better cans for close to the same price.

Yankee Hill Machine
Either one of their muzzle cans for 22 rimfire are good. The Mite is louder, but smaller in diameter so it doesn't block the sights as much.

SWR
The Spectre is rated for use on 22 mag and 5.7x28, but is heavier. Their other 22 rimfire cans are fine.

AAC and Gemtech have been mentioned as well.

Steel cans are more durable, but heavier. Aluminum cans are lighter, but less durable and you have to be careful what solvents you use to clean them with. FOr a 22 rimfire can it is almost standard nowadays for them to be take apart. 22 rimfire is very dirty and there is no reason in today's market to buy a sealed can that I can think of.

Answer to Question 2: A muzzle can can get a 22 rimfire down to about 120 db. MrM4's description is correct for describing a suppressed 22 pistol.

Suppressors typically have either no impact on accuracy or a slight improvement in accuracy. Though sometimes the POI changes a noticeable amount. It all depends on the can and gun.

As for ammunition, it depends on what you're doing. For the best performance you use the more expensive subsonic ammo. If you're just out plinking you use regular bulk pack and put up with the sonic crack.

Answer to Question 3: Integral suppressors tend to be quieter than muzzle cans. They also tend to be more expensive because they have to be specifically designed for each gun model. That being said, modern muzzle cans are still VERY effective.

Where have you read that a gun should be dedicated for suppressor use only? I live in the ND/MN state line so I can't take my cans over the border so I shoot my guns there without cans and when I shoot in ND I use the cans. The only reason I could see for such a reason is the POI change, but that is mostly a non-issue with modern non-wiped cans.

For your first suppressor I would strongly recommend that you get a muzzle can. You get maximum versatility and if you find that you like the 22/45 better than the MKII you aren't stuck trying to get rid of an integeral you don't want.

Answer to Question 4: 22/45. The grip resembles the 1911 grip that I like so much. That's my TAC-62 on the end of my 22/45. Technically obsolete by today's standards, but still a very good performer.



Answer to Question 5: For 22 cans the performance can be greatly increased by shooting the can "wet" this involves putting some water inside the can. The water cools the muzzle gasses. I just dunk the muzzle of my TAC-62 into a can of water. I've practiced enough to know how far to dunk it.

For my 22/45 the water lasts about a magazine or so before it all boils off and the can becomes noticeably louder.

One word of warning. Shooting a 22 rimfire pistol wet generally results in blowback of some water into the action, meaning the gun gets quite dirty quite quickly. Not enough to cause function problems right away, but cleaning will be important. Notice how dirty the bolt on my 22/45 is in the above photo.

As for cleaning the can. Every couple thousand rounds is fine. Make sure to use anti-sieze on the threads so you can take it apart later.

[MartinBrody]

1. A Google search turns up more manufacterers and options than I know what to do with. Stainless steel, aluminum, all kinds of baffle designs, stats, stats, stats. What makes and models are in your experience, repeatedly proven to work reliably and effectively under regular outdoor use and high round count (with proper care and cleaning of course)? Again, cost is not so much a factor as quality, but if 90% of the quality is available for a much more affordable price, I'd just as soon go with the cheaper option. Diminishing returns and all that.

Go with a high quality takedown can, the more steel the better. This is going to cost you, but will be infinitely worth it in the end with regards to longevity. The models that come to mind are the AAC Element or SWR Spectre.

2. What is a realistic expectation of sound signature reduction and effect on accuracy from the different designs and barrel lengths of the properly suppressed firearms, using proper subsonic ammo? What .22 LR ammunition have you found to be your preferred poison in your suppressed weapon and why?

I use CCI Minimag in pistols, it functions well, is relatively clean and the copper wash makes me think it might lead up a can less, but that might just be in my mind. You need to make sure the barrel length of the pistol is short enough so the minimag doesn't go supersonic, I forget but think you don't want to go more than 5 inches with the barrel. Rifles I use CCI subsonic, not sure how this would work in a semi auto though, no experience with that.

While threaded barrels for 77/22s are relatively easy to come by I haven't found them to be the most accurate rifle for the money. I much prefer CZs and it isn't hard to find someone to do a good job threading a 22 barrel.

3. Is there one suitable .22-cal suppressor that will work with all three guns and can be switched around with optimal results? I've heard of pest-control workers opting for integrally suppressed firearms as opposed to removeable cans and also have read in several articles that a suppressed firearm should be dedicated to suppressed-only use. What are your thoughts on this?

Any stand alone can you choose is going to work on all 3. I have not heard about dedicating a firearm to suppressed use only. Just throw a threaded end cap on it to protect the threads. What was the reasoning behind the dedicated use? Integrated are cool, but maybe for your 3rd or 4th NFA, not your first, you are going to want one can to do it all, it is going to be more than quiet enough, especially on the rifles.

4. For the Ruger 22 pistol shooters in the crowd, what is your preference between the Mk II/Mk III and the 22/45 series, and why?

I have a 22/45 and chose it b/c it was available all threaded and ready to go, I suppose if I had my choice I would have gone with one of the steel framed models for durability, but the 22/45 is working out great and the finish on the gun goes with my can really nicely so I am happy with it.

5. I would greatly appreciate any general tips on how to maintain and use 22s or any suppressed firearm to greater effect. Any advice will be helpful.

Takedown can, takedown can, takedown can. I have a non takedown lightweight can, the AAC Pilot, it is great, but I wish I bought a takedown can. Fortunately (for the can) I don't use it very much, so I can keep up on keeping it clean by soaking it in WD40, especially if you are expecting a high round count, GET A TAKEDOWN CAN.

[predator86]

i have 2 ruger 22/45's and i love them all, they are fabulous pistols, my dealer has 4 of them as well, one with a documented 30,000 rounds through it..

MkII's vs. MKIII's

all of our pistols are the mk II version, we will pay more for a used mkII 22/45 than a brand new, at-the-store mkIII, because the mkIII has a loaded chamber indicater and an added safety, which is you cant pull the trigger without the mag in it, which isnt a big deal unless you are taking the gun apart to clean it and putting it back together...i dont need anything telling me my pistol is loaded, and it doesnt need anymore any more complications in assembly...a ruger mkII 22/45 is a lifetime pistol that you will love, not to mention its a 1911 trainer as well...

[Logs]

I just bought a YHM Mite and was bummed on the noise even with sub ammo. I would suggest trying to get a pistol that is already threaded.

My Ruger Slabside is being threaded now and it will cost $75. I am hoping that the pistol will work better. My Sig 22 rifle will not feed the remington ammo over 3-4 rounds.

I am still playing with ammo, but std velocity ammo that I can get for $2 box is real close sound wise to the Remington subsonic at $7 a box.

Everyone will tell you that you can't get Hollywood quiet, but I sure thought that the mite would be quieter that what it is. My advice is to try your local gun boards and see if you can try one out before you buy. If I would have shot a mite before all the paperwork I would not have bought it.

Just my $.02

[RAnb]

I have a homemade can that is 1x6 inches and take apart. It is just a bit louder on a 10/22 than a good quality AAC can I compared it to. I was also dissappointed with how well it suppressed my buckmark pistol, until I shot it side by side with an unsuppressed pistol without ear plugs. There was a huge difference in noise level even if the pistol was still loud.

Ammo and barrel length make a big difference in noise levels. For example I tested some CB (primer only) 22 rimfire ammo in various pistols and rifles. Even my 10 inch contender was noisy when shooting the CB ammo unsuppressed, but in a 16" 10/22, the unsuppressed CB was actually quiet, less than my suppressed buckmark using 22lr subsonic ammo. The longer rifle barrel really sucks a lot of heat and pressure out of the round before it exits the muzzle and goes through the silencer.

Ranb

[SpeedLoader]

Sam, I have several suppressed .22's...the AWC Amphibian ( love this one!! ), the AWC 77/22 which is an integrally suppressed .22 and a Gemtech screw on.

Unfortunately, the first two will empty out the wallet. I love all three and each has its purpose. On the Amphibian and the 77/22, I only hear the bolt recoil OR the firing pin drop...SWEET!! I especially like the screw on for my 10/22. I just have to be careful NOT to burn it up!!!

However, like Martin Brody and Crosshair...I wish I would have gotten a take down can rather than the GemTech. A little more expensive...but worth it!!

[Savage Sam]

Looks like I have some more research to do. That SWR Spectre looks real good though..

[Savage Sam]

I double checked and realized the advice to dedicate a suppressed weapon to suppressed-only fire was based ONLY on possible POI shift when using a suppressor. Other than that there were no reasons given. I don't care about a little POI shift as long as it is repeatable.