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Old May 10, 2010, 01:47 PM   #26
Magnum Wheel Man
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got a commitment on sale... so I'll post... probably be a week or two before it gets here... but is supposed to be rough cosmetically, but in perfect working order mechanically

it's an oddball... an Iver Johnson Sidewinder... single action / double action 22 with a loading gate, & a single action ejector rod & housing on the barrel...

how odd is that ??? a double action revolver with a single action ejector rod ??? I can't think of any other... hmmm... maybe one of the 1st Colt double action 45 LC ????

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Old May 10, 2010, 10:30 PM   #27
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Quote:
how odd is that ??? a double action revolver with a single action ejector rod ??? I can't think of any other... hmmm... maybe one of the 1st Colt double action 45 LC ????
Colt Lightning's had loading gates and single action style ejectors. Available in .38 and .41 caliber for $14 and $15 respectively in 1888

Quote:
I picked up this H&R Model 1906 22RF from a lady friend for $50. 7 shot, has a groove for loading a round at a time but you need something to "eject" the round with. I just pull the cylinder pin and load/empty a cylinder at a time.
I've got it's .32 short cousin from the mid 1890s!



Your friend and mine must be relate, because I paid $40 for mine!
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Old May 17, 2010, 09:50 AM   #28
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had the old US Revolver gun out this weekend, & put several cylinders full of the Super Colibri ammo through the gun... the gun functions as new, & shot to point of aim at between 15-20ft with the Colibri's...

hoping the old Sidewinder gets here this week... though it might not get here till early next week ???
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Old May 19, 2010, 05:30 AM   #29
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Magnum Wheel Man, where does one obtain these Super Colibri .22s? I have a rather substantial collection of these old rf guns. (Purely by accident, I might add; They just sort of kept appearing.)
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Old May 19, 2010, 07:06 AM   #30
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Midway has them right now... the last couple bricks I bought on Gun Broker for $30.00 plus shipping, so the Midway price of $27.99 isn't too bad

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=859944
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Old May 19, 2010, 07:28 AM   #31
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How much is shipping to Minnesota?

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Old May 19, 2010, 07:31 AM   #32
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http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/AMM066-5.html

$22.79 per 500 brick. Getting real affordable now

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Old May 19, 2010, 07:40 AM   #33
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Thanks for that link... I already have 2 Bricks, but at that price I might have to buy one or two more...

even at the $30.00 price with shipping, they are only 17 or 18 cents a shot... it is pretty cheap shooting...

BTW... these work OK in loose old black powder rifles, but if you read the reviews on Midways site, the poor reviews come from people trying to shoot them in new rifles... for my purposes, they are great for the old black powder 22 handguns & for my old Stevens Crackshot ( my accuracy is better out of the handguns... but that may just be the looser bore in my ol rifle ??? )... if someone is just after "quiet shooting" I'd think the new high velocity shorts would be better for use in modern rifles...
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Old May 19, 2010, 08:26 AM   #34
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I just bought a Iver Johnson Target Model 55 last weekend and a Stevens .22 bolt a few weeks ago that I can't remember the model number at the moment. This ammo should be good in the revolver once I restore it.

Found a neat 2.5" octagon barrel H&R .22 revolver the other day but some meathead shot modern ammo thru it and split the cylinder I sure wanted that one but not after seeing that damage

Mike
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Old May 19, 2010, 08:33 AM   #35
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so does your Iver have an adjustable rear sight ??? most of this era didn't but I have seen a few here & there, even a couple top breaks... I haven't been able to get one yet myself, but I'd like to pick up a top break with the old style adjustable sights...
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Old May 19, 2010, 08:40 AM   #36
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No adjustable rear sight. It's just the regular groove that the hammer blocks until it's cocked. What is that stuff that turns rust into powder as this barrel has some rust. The bore looks good and shiny which saves me the lapping process.

BTW, what part of Southern MN are you in? I am about 35 miles north of Minneapolis. Sitting in Kentucky at the moment as we are traveling this week.

tnx,
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Old May 19, 2010, 09:00 AM   #37
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I'm pretty close to where I-90 & I-35 cross

the local gun shop had / recommended a "scrubbie" it looks like it's aluminum, plastic or ??? but it's not "too hard" on the surrounding blueing, but helps take off some of the rust, I use this scrubber pad with something like WD-40... I also have used very fine steel wool, & a wetting with something like WD-40, but the steel wool can be hard on the surrounding blueing... most of my guns that needed "cleaning up" have been nickel, & I use Flitz & a soft cloth or old tooth brush with those, & the Flitz really whitens up the dark areas... but I haven't tried it on a blued gun ???... but once you get them cleaned up, cold blueing can help

... I have a Hopkins & Allen Safety Police model in 38 S&W, that had alot of rust where the previous owners had had been in contact with the metal around the grip... I never did get all the rust off, but now it blends in with the pantina of the gun, & is not so objectionable, or noticable... I've heard of people spot bead blasting, but I have never messed with that
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Old May 19, 2010, 09:08 AM   #38
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Sounds like Austin. There is no blue left on any metal on this revolver I want to make it rust free then see what type of finish I want to put on it depending upon how rough the surface is and what will hide that texture. It's going to be a shooter for sure. The timing looks good and the action is plenty tight. I'll get some pictures on here once I get home. I also need to get my C&R application sent in as I let my old 03 license lapse I had ran across this revolver last weekend then later found this forum and all your posts got me interested in C&R guns again

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Old May 19, 2010, 09:21 AM   #39
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E.A. Brown is a MN company that offer a "french grey" finish... which I think is a bead blasted satin nickel finish... of the re-finishers I've seen out there, I think they are resonably priced... I've been meaning to send one up there, but I can't seem to stay off Gun Broker long enough to save up the money for a re-finish I think you could do a bead blast & blueing for a satin finish in blued that would look OK on these guns... or there is always DuraKote for probably the lowest cost...

I'll have to decide what to do with that Sidewinder I posted a pic of, once it gets here... what I'll spend on the finish, will be dependant on if the gun is as solid as the seller described ???

I have a couple S&W top break centerfires, that I think I'm going to spend the bucks & send to Fords re-finishing... once I can keep my finger off the "bid button"
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Old May 19, 2010, 10:24 AM   #40
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That sounds like a Parkerize finish. That would look very pretty on this revolver. Nickle plating would look nice too but it would take some attention to not get the plating where it shouldn't be, for clearance issues. I haven't been attracted to those top break revolvers like you have. They seem like a weak design, but I haven't owned one so I am not the one to judge what they can or can not do. I did see a pair of .32 cal revolvers last Monday but the ammo cost kept me away from them. I have my fair share of expensive ammo guns and am interested in the low buck .22 guns now. Of course reading your posts has gotten me even more interested It's all your fault now

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Old May 19, 2010, 10:32 AM   #41
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http://parkerizingkits.com/index.html

What you think of these kits? I believe my CZ52 is gray Parkerized.

I haven't looked at it in a while to be sure, but I know it is a matt finish. I have a bead blaster at home and can blast the metal on the Model 55 revolver to prep it for Parkerizing.

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Old May 19, 2010, 10:44 AM   #42
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I just think the bead blasted finish would cover any pits better...

one also has to be carefull with blueing, as they often used different iron & steel mixes in the parts... I've seen a couple Ivers, where the re-blue did not match between the frame, barrel, & cylinder...

not sure on the age of your "55" but I think it's new enough, that the steels may be more uniform ( of the off color guns I've seen, at least 2 of them were top breaks, & likely older than the "55" ) unless your gun is old enough that it's a black powder gun ???
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Old May 19, 2010, 10:59 AM   #43
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The Model 55 first came out in 1955 so it'll be modern ammo It's got a 8 round non-fluted cylinder and round barrel. It is a duel action revolver. I just about fell over when I seen it. My usual antique finds are cap & ball guns.

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Old May 19, 2010, 11:05 AM   #44
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I haven't bought the Iver Johnson book yet, so I'm not as up on them as some of the others I've collected, but I was thinking it was a newer solid frame gun.. does your 55 have a loading gate or just the loading port ??? I think I remember seeing them both ways
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Old May 19, 2010, 11:14 AM   #45
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The loading port. Question, how am I supposed to get the spent rounds out of the cylinder? This is the first time I have seen a revolver like this. My only other revolver I have owned & shot is my 586 SW.

EZ to eject the spent rounds out of that one but this Model 55? Strange to me anyhow...

Back on that Super Colibri ammo, Cabela's sells it for $34.99 which is a bit under Cheaper Than Dirt with the shipping per one 500 round brick. It'd be cheaper to just drive to a Cabela's, if one is close by, if you are only buying a single brick. If buying a bunch of bricks, then Cheaper Than Dirt is the way to go.

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Old May 19, 2010, 11:23 AM   #46
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I believe on the model 55 you either turned the cylinder to line up with the "port" & inserted something small to push out the spent cases, or pulled the cylinder pin & took out the cylinder then ( at least I do, on similar solid frame guns ) use the cylinder pin to push out the cases... I believe they designed them that way...

that is one thing to look for on this type of revolver no matter the caliber, is often the cylinder pin retaining system is worn, because of how often the cylinder was removed over the life of the revolver...
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Old May 19, 2010, 11:38 AM   #47
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The pin & retainer is thankfully pretty tight. Plenty tight for shooting. I will keep this gun well lubed so there will be no additional wear. It appears to be a low time gun. You should have seen how loose that 22 short revolver was that I looked at Monday. No way that one could have been fired even if it had a good cylinder. It was way sloppy. It looks like the one you have pictured at the top of this thread with the short octagon barrel in nickel finish. It was definitely one from the 1880's in black powder. Some meathead likely thru some modern ammo in it and destroyed a piece of history
My Model 55 will get a wooden dowel used to unload it now that you told me how it is done. That way the cylinder only has to come out when it is cleaning time. I'm thinking like a dowel carried on a lanyard...
Can't wait to get home now so I can start the restoration. I have to test fire that rifle that I bought a few weeks ago. I had to install a new lifter spring in it as it was missing when I bought the gun. That rifle was made from 1935 thru 1945 I believe. I don't have the specifics with me or any pictures of it on my site so I can't show you. I had bought it, then got the spring in and had to leave on this trip so it's at home and I'm down here in Kentucky

Mike
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Old May 19, 2010, 11:46 AM   #48
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That split cylinder .22 revolver was called a H&R YOUNG AMERICAN double action. It had the 2.5" barrel.

Mike
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Old May 24, 2010, 11:44 AM   #49
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Back home now...Got the rust off the 55 Target last night. It is pitted here & there but not totally ugly. It will be fine looking with a matt finish. Good news is the bore is flawless shiny like it should be. This revolver was so freakin dirty.. Now to make that wooden unloader stick. Thank you for that tip

Mike
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Old May 24, 2010, 11:50 AM   #50
Magnum Wheel Man
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happy shooting... my local toy store is closed on Mondays... I'm hoping my Sidewinder is at the shop for me to pick up tomorrow
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