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Old September 8, 2013, 10:15 AM   #26
Real Gun
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Quote:
Crimp firmly using the superior Redding Profile Crimp Die.
What exactly does the Redding die do better? When does one know there is something wrong with what they have?
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Old September 8, 2013, 10:55 PM   #27
Duke City Six
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A little clarification

Real Gun,

Chamfering (or deburring?):
1. This is not a case of omitting one step from the reloading process, only to add another. I am not suggesting that this be done every time, or that the cases need be trimmed. Only a light touch, once, when the brass is new, to take off the sharp edge.

2. For me, I don't think this was a question of insufficient flare. The bullets started into the cases just fine, and after the light chamfering, everything was okay. I never needed to increase the flare. From what I understand, excessive flare is not desirable either. So I don't think of this as a "work around." And by the way, the lead slivers were very fine, like hairs, and easily brushed off. Not really a big problem, but better avoided.

I've done a little research, and found that many reloaders feel that straight-walled pistol cases never need this, but there seem to be a few who find this technique effective.

Maybe this issue is more associated with seating and crimping in a single operation. There are certainly two schools of thought on that one too, but if you load single stage like I do, it's nice to save a step.

Respectfully, D.C.S.

Last edited by Duke City Six; September 9, 2013 at 12:07 AM.
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Old September 9, 2013, 12:39 AM   #28
WESHOOT2
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what it does

The Redding Profile Crimp Die first offers a gentle and symmetrical taper, then, when so adjusted, finishes with an equally symmetrical roll.

It has been repeatedly tested, and demonstrates improved ballistic performance, and accuracy on target.

I personally use one to finish every revolver cartridge I make (and I gotta lotta dies).


When I make ammo I attempt to maximize its accuracy potential; none is ever good enough. I balance the needed process --and time it takes-- with the reality of how much time I really have to maximize.
I compromise.
Tools, like the Redding die, increase my ammo's potential with little or no cost in time or process (I was gonna crimp regardless; may as well use a tool that has proven accuracy enhancement).
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"all my ammo is mostly retired factory ammo"
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Old September 9, 2013, 08:04 AM   #29
Real Gun
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Quote:
2. For me, I don't think this was a question of insufficient flare. The bullets started into the cases just fine, and after the light chamfering, everything was okay. I never needed to increase the flare. From what I understand, excessive flare is not desirable either. So I don't think of this as a "work around." And by the way, the lead slivers were very fine, like hairs, and easily brushed off. Not really a big problem, but better avoided.
The bullet is not perfectly in line with the case until sufficiently engaged. Without enough bell to keep the case mouth edge away from the bullet, I think there would be opportunity for the bullet to get shaved a bit, deburring or no.

I'm not sure it applies here , but I occasionally clean my crimp die with a bore brush and One Shot. If there are lead slivers on the bullet, there are probably traces inside the die.
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Old September 9, 2013, 06:11 PM   #30
Duke City Six
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I will keep an open mind. I'm no expert, and I can always stand to learn something new. I was just reporting my experience. In the future, especially if this problem ever happens again, I will consider increasing the flare.

And yes, I have long since scrubbed out the die. Thanks.

I may yet experiment with separating the seat and crimp steps, to see if it might improve accuracy.
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