Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II

Bulldog · May 21, 2000, 07:29 PM

I'd appreciate any tips or tricks to using this stuff, as I have a few cans on order. I'm planning on starting off by doing my old Mossberg 500 in a Parkerized Grey color, and if that comes out fine, I have an old AR that needs some help.

I already plan on completely disassembling and degreasing everything, but any other tips would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

------------------
¡Viva la RKBA!
Bulldawg: NRA, GOA, TSRA, Shiner Bock Connoisseur.
Bulldawg's Firearms Page

GgnubrKihn · May 23, 2000, 04:36 PM

Bulldog,

Don't know about Brownell's product but can tell you Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black works great on my AR.

Kernel · May 25, 2000, 08:31 AM

Aluma-Hyde II is good stuff. The trick to a good application is in the degreasing. My tip is to first degrease the gun with solvent, then (before painting) either bake the parts in an oven at around 180F or use a hair dryer to heat the parts up as hot as you can. This will drive even more grease & oil from the pores of the metal and from the cracks and crevices. You'll be surprised how much hidden oil there'll be. Wear gloves because even the oil in your finger prints will effect the application.

My other tip is to devise some kinda rig that will allow you to paint all the parts without having to touch them. Suspend them by a string or wire from a rafter in the garage or a tree in the backyard. That way you can paint 360 degrees and not have to lay the part on a surface to dry. Follow all of the printed directions and in the end let it cure in a dry place for 72 hours before you handle it much, I think it reaches it's maximum hardness a couple of weeks after it's applied.

Finally, be advised that this stuff has a particularly offensive odor, so you're going to want to use it outside or when the family is out of the house. Good luck. -- Kernel

Bulldog · May 25, 2000, 08:00 PM

Thanks Kernel - Sounds like some good advice.

Ivanhoe · May 27, 2000, 01:38 PM

Are there any common solvents which will *remove* the Brownells paint? I can foresee moving from eastern oak forests to the desert, necessitating a change in camo schemes...

Bulldog · June 5, 2000, 12:38 AM

Ivanhoe - I'm sure there's something that should take it right off. The Aluma-Hyde II is advertised as being strong enough to withstand most common gun cleaning products. I don't know (yet) how it'll hold up to Gun Scrubber.

Well, I applied the Parkerized Gray Aluma-Hyde II to my old Mossberg 500, and let me tell you, it's like a new gun.

I fully detail-stripped the gun (for the first time in the 10 years I've had it), removed all of the old finish and rust with a wire wheel on a buffing wheel. I sanded the areas to be refinished, and thoroughly cleaned and degreased everything.

I didn't bake anything in the oven, but I did go over the parts with a hot air gun immediately before the application.

I first started with the stripped reciever - I took it outside, hung (or is that hanged?) it on a wire clothes hanger, and proceeded to spray with relatively light passes.

I let it hang (inside in the air conditoning) for around 36 hours and went back at it the next day.

On day 2, I put a 2nd coat on the receiver and went ahead and put 2 coats on the barrel, mag tube, and slide assembly (waited approx. 1 to 2 hours between coats). All parts were hung inside again.

On day 3, I looked at everything and touched-up anything that needed it. After hanging everything back up, it was just a matter of time before putting everything back together.

The recommended cure time (on the can) is one week. Some folks recommended 2 weeks. Being the impatient type, I waited 3 days. Everything went back together nicely, and the following is the result:

http://www.geocities.com/shootinbull...erg/moss01.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shootinbull...erg/moss02.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shootinbull...erg/moss03.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shootinbull...erg/moss04.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/shootinbull...erg/moss05.jpg

After putting everything back together, I could barely make out a bit of metal showing through the finish on the receiver, so I'll probably add another coat sometime down the road.

I'm going to make sure to let it sit for another week or so before applying any lube, shooting, or banging it around. Only time will tell how durable this finish will be.

The finish closely resembles gray parkerizing in both color and texture. I'm pretty impressed with the cosmetic results so far.

This is not a bake-on finish, but I'm wondering if baking will make it any stronger. If this stuff doesn't hold up as-is, I'll have to experiment.

Suppossedly, the Aluma-Hyde II can be used over existing finishes, but I know of one person who did this that is already experiencing wear on his slide operating arms.

By the way, this shotgun took up nearly an entire can.

I probably should've waited, but I have 4 more cans of Park. Gray on the way (in addition to the 2 cans of matte black and 1 can of OD green I already have).

Next project: The stripped Maadi AK sitting in the workshop.

------------------
¡Viva la RKBA!
Bulldawg: NRA, GOA, TSRA, Shiner Bock Connoisseur.
Bulldawg's Firearms Page

[This message has been edited by Bulldog (edited June 05, 2000).]

May 21, 2000, 07:29 PM	#1
Bulldog Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 1999 Location: Texas Posts: 564	I'd appreciate any tips or tricks to using this stuff, as I have a few cans on order. I'm planning on starting off by doing my old Mossberg 500 in a Parkerized Grey color, and if that comes out fine, I have an old AR that needs some help. I already plan on completely disassembling and degreasing everything, but any other tips would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. ------------------ ¡Viva la RKBA! Bulldawg: NRA, GOA, TSRA, Shiner Bock Connoisseur. Bulldawg's Firearms Page

May 23, 2000, 04:36 PM	#2
GgnubrKihn Senior Member Join Date: November 5, 1999 Posts: 100	Bulldog, Don't know about Brownell's product but can tell you Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black works great on my AR.

May 25, 2000, 08:31 AM	#3
Kernel Senior Member Join Date: November 21, 1999 Location: Madison, WI.... "78 Square Miles Surrounded by Reality" Posts: 923	Aluma-Hyde II is good stuff. The trick to a good application is in the degreasing. My tip is to first degrease the gun with solvent, then (before painting) either bake the parts in an oven at around 180F or use a hair dryer to heat the parts up as hot as you can. This will drive even more grease & oil from the pores of the metal and from the cracks and crevices. You'll be surprised how much hidden oil there'll be. Wear gloves because even the oil in your finger prints will effect the application. My other tip is to devise some kinda rig that will allow you to paint all the parts without having to touch them. Suspend them by a string or wire from a rafter in the garage or a tree in the backyard. That way you can paint 360 degrees and not have to lay the part on a surface to dry. Follow all of the printed directions and in the end let it cure in a dry place for 72 hours before you handle it much, I think it reaches it's maximum hardness a couple of weeks after it's applied. Finally, be advised that this stuff has a particularly offensive odor, so you're going to want to use it outside or when the family is out of the house. Good luck. -- Kernel

May 25, 2000, 08:00 PM	#4
Bulldog Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 1999 Location: Texas Posts: 564	Thanks Kernel - Sounds like some good advice.

May 27, 2000, 01:38 PM	#5
Ivanhoe Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 1998 Location: Virginia Posts: 412	Are there any common solvents which will remove the Brownells paint? I can foresee moving from eastern oak forests to the desert, necessitating a change in camo schemes...

June 5, 2000, 12:38 AM	#6
Bulldog Senior Member Join Date: February 22, 1999 Location: Texas Posts: 564	Ivanhoe - I'm sure there's something that should take it right off. The Aluma-Hyde II is advertised as being strong enough to withstand most common gun cleaning products. I don't know (yet) how it'll hold up to Gun Scrubber. Well, I applied the Parkerized Gray Aluma-Hyde II to my old Mossberg 500, and let me tell you, it's like a new gun. I fully detail-stripped the gun (for the first time in the 10 years I've had it), removed all of the old finish and rust with a wire wheel on a buffing wheel. I sanded the areas to be refinished, and thoroughly cleaned and degreased everything. I didn't bake anything in the oven, but I did go over the parts with a hot air gun immediately before the application. I first started with the stripped reciever - I took it outside, hung (or is that hanged?) it on a wire clothes hanger, and proceeded to spray with relatively light passes. I let it hang (inside in the air conditoning) for around 36 hours and went back at it the next day. On day 2, I put a 2nd coat on the receiver and went ahead and put 2 coats on the barrel, mag tube, and slide assembly (waited approx. 1 to 2 hours between coats). All parts were hung inside again. On day 3, I looked at everything and touched-up anything that needed it. After hanging everything back up, it was just a matter of time before putting everything back together. The recommended cure time (on the can) is one week. Some folks recommended 2 weeks. Being the impatient type, I waited 3 days. Everything went back together nicely, and the following is the result: http://www.geocities.com/shootinbull...erg/moss01.jpg http://www.geocities.com/shootinbull...erg/moss02.jpg http://www.geocities.com/shootinbull...erg/moss03.jpg http://www.geocities.com/shootinbull...erg/moss04.jpg http://www.geocities.com/shootinbull...erg/moss05.jpg After putting everything back together, I could barely make out a bit of metal showing through the finish on the receiver, so I'll probably add another coat sometime down the road. I'm going to make sure to let it sit for another week or so before applying any lube, shooting, or banging it around. Only time will tell how durable this finish will be. The finish closely resembles gray parkerizing in both color and texture. I'm pretty impressed with the cosmetic results so far. This is not a bake-on finish, but I'm wondering if baking will make it any stronger. If this stuff doesn't hold up as-is, I'll have to experiment. Suppossedly, the Aluma-Hyde II can be used over existing finishes, but I know of one person who did this that is already experiencing wear on his slide operating arms. By the way, this shotgun took up nearly an entire can. I probably should've waited, but I have 4 more cans of Park. Gray on the way (in addition to the 2 cans of matte black and 1 can of OD green I already have). Next project: The stripped Maadi AK sitting in the workshop. ------------------ ¡Viva la RKBA! Bulldawg: NRA, GOA, TSRA, Shiner Bock Connoisseur. Bulldawg's Firearms Page [This message has been edited by Bulldog (edited June 05, 2000).]