December 1, 2008, 04:35 PM | #1 |
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9mm 115gr FMJ OAL?
Hi all, I'm new to reloading! I have a new Dillon 650 press on the way and ordered 115gr 9mm FMJ bullets, bullseye powder, a Lyman manual. The first thing I noticed was, under the 115gr bullet load data, the manual only lists data for 115gr JHP. I'm concerned after reading the manual that the OAL may be different for these two bullets. Does anyone know what the OAL should be or where I could find out what it should be for the 115 FMJ? Sorry for the long winded question and thanks for any response.
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December 1, 2008, 06:33 PM | #2 |
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hi headgear, i'm new to the forum but have been loading 9mm for a while.
i use bullseye, 4.3- 4.7gn, 1.115-1.125. i shoot a glock and these loads work well, this is for fmj and i also use berry plated bullets. hope this helps
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December 1, 2008, 06:34 PM | #3 |
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Generally speaking, it is the depth the base goes into the case that determines peak pressure in a short straight-walled case. Deeper means more pressure, shallower means less. What charge were you planning on using? What are the lengths of the bullets mentioned and what are their recommended COL's?
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December 1, 2008, 06:58 PM | #4 | |
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December 1, 2008, 07:23 PM | #5 |
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Same for me. I load 9mm FMJ RN to 1.135.
Rusty
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December 1, 2008, 07:57 PM | #6 |
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By the way, Dillon sends its presses pre-adjusted to the round you order it in. You may find you don't need to do anything at all except adjust the powder measure and load.
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December 1, 2008, 08:12 PM | #7 | |
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Last edited by rn22723; December 1, 2008 at 08:34 PM. |
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December 1, 2008, 08:29 PM | #8 |
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Yep! You're right except you forgot to include the Square Deal B, which comes set up too. My 550B came, as you suggest, with the conversion kit and no dies unless you order them. I'm getting old, and I forgot!
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December 1, 2008, 08:33 PM | #9 | |
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December 1, 2008, 09:33 PM | #10 | |
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December 1, 2008, 10:54 PM | #11 |
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Per a couple of my manuals, 1.12 is the minimum OAL for 115gr FMJ. I load mine 1.12 to 1.13..
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December 2, 2008, 06:41 AM | #12 |
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Unclenick, Thanks for the info. I'm a little concerned now about the pressure of the case against the bullet. I hope that the correct adjustment for this isn't to difficult to achieve. I have not received the press yet, but downloaded the set-up and instruction manual, and read every word. The part about crimping the flair flat against the bullet looks simple enough. Hopefully it is. I can just see that bullet creeping back under recoil and causing painful problems. I used to reload rifle rounds for a 300 weatherby, and that seemed a lot less involved. Now that I am shooting pistols, I want to reload to try to offset the possible Obama impact on cost, and it seems a little more involved. I let a guy talk me into the Dillon 650 because of the speed and more importantly, the alarms. Maybe I should have started with a single stage. The more I read , the more I become concerned. I guess a little healthy fear is a good thing in this case. Thanks again to all who have taken their time to respond.
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December 2, 2008, 12:04 PM | #13 |
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The one thing I usually do when loading for a semi-auto to aid in feeding, is to load the bullet as long as my magazine will allow it, minus .005" to make up for inconsistencies between magazines. When I follow this procedure, I generally do not have to worry about seating bullets too deep or fear of going overpressure relating to seating the bullet too deep. This unfortunately will not work if you shoot multiple guns with one caliber, then I'd have to load them so that they fit the magazine that is the shortest.
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December 2, 2008, 02:45 PM | #14 |
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Headgear,
You might also consider the Lee Factory Crimp die. It will flatten the flare before crimping and will squeeze the case down well. You are correct about the powder charge alarm on the press being a good idea. BTW, before the press comes, drop by the hardware store and pick up a tube of dry graphite powder. Before using the powder measure, toss all that powder into the hopper and rubber band some plastic wrap on top and shake the thing up and down and all around to get the graphite distributed. The hold the drop tube over a paper cup and work the charge bar with your thumb until all the graphite is out. Run it through a couple or three more times, tapping it at the end to get loose graphite down thorugh the charge bar. This does what the graphite on the Bullseye would have done after a thousand rounds or so, and that is coat everything with graphite. The coating helps dissipate static electricity and helps the charge bar slide and the powder to drop a little more evenly. I don't know if you still have a powder scale from your rifle loading? You will need one to set up the measure. After the graphite and before installing the measure on the press, you may want to put some Bullseye in and again run the charge bar with your thumb to get the adjustment into the ballpark without cycling a lot of cases through. Once installed on the press, the charge drop will change a little. You'll need to run 10 primed (so the powder doesn't fall out of the flashhole) cases through just to get it close to settling, and you'll need to fine tune the adjsutment from there. No doubt the progressives need more setup, but once they get rolling the ease with wich they crank ammo out is impressive. Nick
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December 2, 2008, 08:49 PM | #15 |
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To add to what Unclenick said.... I keep a fired casing (with fired primer) on the bench for each pistol caliber I load. These special casings are marked with paint so that I know they are not to be reloaded. When setting up the powder throw, I use thess painted casings to get the measure correct. This way, I don't overly work any brass I intend to shoot with excessive flaring (remember that your powder die also flares/bells each casing).
After getting the powder measurement correct, just like Unclenick I also throw 10 rounds to check for consistency by averaging. Measure the weight of your ten throws of powder, divide by ten and you should be where you intend your finished ammo to be. |
December 3, 2008, 07:54 AM | #16 |
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You guys are great! I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help. I also have a copy of the "ABC's of reloading" on the way, and I'll bet that a lot of the practical info that you guys are telling me will not be in there. Thanks again. Your time and effort will help us new guys be safe. Hats off!!!
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December 3, 2008, 05:11 PM | #17 |
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I am new here but i use berry RN FMJ range bullets.
i loaded my last run with accurates #7 powder at 7.9 grains i had excellent recoil, no misfeeds and even with my shaky hands had managed a nice 1-2" grouping at 45 feet. i figured loading it light would be a good start as opposed to my 380 i loaded light and wasnt happy with the feel or accuarcy of the bullets i also set the bullet depth to .143 with a cartridge lenght overall at 1.140 FWIW my loaded rounds weigh 175-176 grains and my average weight of factory range loads weighed in at 172 grains. hope it helps, i use a dillon square deal robert
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December 3, 2008, 05:57 PM | #18 |
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I also got my bullets from Berry. They are 115gr fm ds. They just arrived today. Now all I need is the press w/accessories, the casings I ordered and oh ya, the 9mm Glock 26 that has been on back order for the last four weeks, and I can get started. I have a G30 and should have had the press set up for it. But I figured I would shoot more if it were less expensive. Its really going to cheap if I don't have the G26. A friend of mine owns a gun shop and is getting the gun for me. So I feel obligated to give him the business, but hearing him say this evening, "maybe it will be here next week", is killing me! Oh well, the press should be here by this weekend so at least I will have that to play with. Don't you just love toys?
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